Duke Student’s “Z-Kitchen” Featured in NY Times

September 28, 2007

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Holy Sous Vide, Batman!! A Duke student’s underground restaurant is the focus of a New York Times Magazine article to be published this Sunday. Bryan Zupon has a love of cutting edge cuisine. He comes from a privileged background, but rather than just going to all the top restaurants, he immerses himself in them. He’s so caught up in contemporary, hyper-modern cuisine (think Wylie Dufresene and Grant Achatz), that he opened his own underground restaurant, serving some of the most creative food in the Southeast, let alone the Triangle. Where did he serve it? In his college apartment, of course. Needless to say, this kid has serious chops, and now that the Times has “discovered” him, I seriously wonder whether he’s actually going to law school after all.

Anyhow, I had a fun meal at Zupon’s Z-Kitchen a year ago, and I offer the photos after the break as evidence of what this young man is capable of doing. Read the rest of this entry »


Photo for the Day — Fried Chicken

September 28, 2007

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Mmm, fried chicken sizzling in a cast iron skillet. With the cold weather coming (it will come soon, won’t it?), it’s time to do some cooking of hearty foods. Enjoy.


Watts New? Watts Grocery in Durham, That’s Watt

September 28, 2007

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The Watts Grocery cheese plate.  Boy, I love figs.  Cheese ain’t too shabby, either! (Photo courtesy Jerry Blow)

Amy Tornquist’s new venture, Watts Grocery is now open in Durham. This new venture by the former chef of Duke’s highly regarded Nasher Museum Cafe has garnered lots of anticipatory discussion on Chowhound and other sites. The menu clearly reflects a contemporary Southern cuisine with an emphasis on local ingredients. Hell, the fact that the bar will be serving deep-fried chicken gizzards makes me want to make the trek to Durham right away.

Watts Grocery
1116 Broad Street
Durham, NC
919-416-5040


When Computer Geeks and Foodies Collide

September 26, 2007

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BREAKING NEWS: This intrepid reporter witnessed a monumental gathering on Monday that will live in infamy. After witnessing this event, I’m now convinced that dogs and cats will be playing in the streets, there will be peace in the Middle East, and Roy Williams will have Coach K over for beer and pizza. Yes, at Piedmont Restaurant, a group of computer-minded bloggers broke bread with local gastronomes (OK, I’ll call them foodies), and everyone had plenty to talk about. Michael Ruhlman, one of the country’s finest food writers, was the featured guest of this event, which was sponsored by BlogTogether. Ruhlman spoke about his fairly recent venture into the world of food blogging, explaining why he enjoys writing for free, even when it distracts from his paying work. He encouraged all food bloggers to be civil in tone, and more importantly (and in the words of his mentor Reynolds Mentor), not to be boring. The evening certainly was not boring.

Chefs Drew Brown and Andy Magowan prepared a 5 course meal, featuring the pork from Cane Creek Farm and other local products. Highlights were the white sweet potato soup with house made pancetta and a scuppernong granita. The scuppernong is an oft-overlooked grape, particularly with desserts, but its complexity of flavor makes it perfect for many fruit based dishes (as long as you can figure out a good way to use the skin and seeds!). It seemed that everyone at our table commented — between the “mmms” and “wows” — on how the granita had several distinct flavor profiles. The food was really top-notch, and the meal reminded me of how much I wish Piedmont were in Raleigh.

Ruhlman may be everywhere — books, TV shows, magazine articles, blogs — and he’s known as Anthony Bourdain’s sidekick, but he’s actually the typical writer, preferring the isolationistic existence common to the profession. He was genuinely modest and a bit shy at times. However, he truly was excited to be here, and he hit it off with everyone in attendance. Maybe it’s because computer nerds are also creatures who spend lots of time alone (and I use the term “nerd” with great affection, as I’m a recovering science nerd). Thus, maybe this evening was pure fate, an occasion destined to happen.

And so, the evening was filled with laughter, good food and wine, and great conversation. But then, come to think of it, isn’t that really the best formula to get two relatively disparate groups to come together?

Kudos to my new friend, Anton Zuiker, who did 100% of the work in putting this event together. Anton’s passion in bringing together the North Carolina blogging community is amazing, and I salute him. Anton’s account of the evening can be found here.
Ruhlman

Michael Ruhlman

Drew Brown

Chef Drew Brown


Dominican Delight

September 25, 2007

Ask anyone I know, and they’ll tell you that as much as I love to eat at high end places, I truly love the holes in the wall. The mom-and-pop-pinch-you-in-the-cheek sort of place where you know the owner is in the kitchen every day. In particular, as I wrote last week, I like taquerias — a LOT. Now I’m guilty as much as the next guy in getting a burrito instead of the tacos every once in awhile because sometimes, I like a more hefty meal (hey, I’m a hefty guy). And so it is that years ago I fell in love with the “restaurant location of death” at 805 West Peace Street in Raleigh. I can’t keep track of the names of the different Mexican restaurants at that location — Taqueria Mi Mexico, Taqueria La Zacatecana, and now, Brisas de Acapulco. Although the place has been called Brisas de Acapulco for several years now, I had given up on this place when the prior owners tried too hard to fancify the place, and sacrificed flavor and authenticity. When I saw a discussion on ChowHound that the place was new and improved, I had to give this old friend another chance. I’m glad I did.

Folks, Brisas de Acapulco is under new ownership, and in addition to standard taqueria fare, they make Dominican food. For lunch today, I had Comida Criolla, a Dominican chicken stew served with rice, beans and roasted yellow plantains. The owners were somewhat skeptical when I ordered this special of the day, but they came out at least 4 times during my meal to check on what I thought of the food. It was damn good was what I thought. When they knew I actually was serious about my eating (it’s only at the Latino and Caribbean restaurants where people question my eating abilities), they told me I needed to come back for their Pescado con Coco — a whole fish cooked in coconut milk. Just tell me when, and I’m there.

A couple of other points: the chips and salsa are very good, but not completely memorable. But this is the only place I know where they serve a bottomless glass of horchata. That alone would make this a place to go regularly, but the solid food makes it a true destination.

Brisas de Acalpulco
805 W Peace Street
Raleigh, NC 27605
919-821-7642


This Little Piggie Went to Market . . .

September 24, 2007

As I was driving my 13-year old son to his soccer game in Charlotte yesterday, we passed a truck filled with hogs. My boy examined the truck, looked at me, and said, “Mmmm, pork.” I then began to tell him where those pigs were headed, and more significantly, where they likely came from. I explained to him that the pigs led a life in which they didn’t run around, were confined to a 6 square foot space of concrete floor, where the pigs’ feces are pumped to huge lagoons, fouling the air for miles around. I told him that this process makes the pork that he eats reasonably affordable, but at the expense of any semblance of humane treatment. I thought that he needed to know these things. He didn’t really respond, but he gazed at me with a perplexed look, and then said, “That’s not right.”

I am a hypocrite. I don’t really want to know first-hand how bad our food-animals have it. I don’t need to see the stockyards where cattle are raised, the hog farms where thousands of pigs are cramped together, how female chickens are pumped with antibiotics and raised in one-third of the time they used to take to get to market-size. If I saw those things, I might stop eating the wondrous flesh these animals provide.

Read the rest of this entry »


Photo for the Day — Okra

September 21, 2007

Here’s something for you to think about over the weekend.

okra


No Brainer of the Year: N&O Gives Fins 4 Stars

September 21, 2007

I’m certainly not going to get in the habit of writing about Greg Cox’s reviews, but in today’s N&O, he gave Fins, one of my favorite restaurants anywhere, a 4-star rating. Duh! I’ve always loved William D’Auvray’s cooking, and the new space in downtown Raleigh is stunning. I’ve eaten similar fare across the country (Beard Award-winning Shawn McClain’s Spring in Chicago comes to mind), but no one does as good of a job as D’Auvray at Fins.  I have to admit that I’ve yet to eat dinner in the new space, but I’ve had lunch twice. The lunch menu is completely different from dinner, but D’Auvray’s style and commitment to great ingredients remains a constant. As the cold weather approaches, their hot pot for 2 will be on my regular lunch rotation!

Anyhow, when I grab dinner at Fins, I’ll be sure to report back, but in the meantime, you can read my description of a family dinner at the old location from a couple years ago — just click on the link below.

Read the rest of this entry »


Restaurants I’m Waiting For

September 20, 2007

I sometimes wonder if the anticipation of a new restaurant opening is more enjoyable than the food the place serves. It’s great when it’s the latter that is more memorable, but I rarely can conceal my eagerness when the days are counting down for another opening. There are four restaurants which have piqued my interest, two of which are owned by friends.

Ashley Christensen will be opening Poole’s Diner in the old location of — what else? — Poole’s Diner. When she bought the place earlier this year, she knew that the restaurant needed some work. I think she now recognizes how much work was really needed. I’ve tried to get a work-up of the menu, but no deal. However, expect the focus to be on well-executed comfort food. I wouldn’t call it diner food, but I wouldn’t say it’s Vin-style, either. Regardless, I’m betting it’ll be great.

Charlie Deal, owner of Chapel Hill’s Jujube, is opening Dos Perros in downtown Durham. This Mexican establishment, named after his two dogs, will focus on high-end versions of classic fare. That is, think better meats and ingredients than your average taqueria. Plus, Deal will have a full bar, so expect interesting twists on your margarita. Deal has long had a love affair with Mexican food, and I’ve had the pleasure of hitting some of Durham’s finer authentic taquerias with Charlie. Moreover, Deal plans to make Dos Perros a “green” establishment. It will be interesting to see how that plays out.

Charleston’s David Leboutillier will be opening a French brasserie that will be similar to his 39 Rue de Jean (with which he no longer is involved). Located in the updated High Park Village shopping center in Raleigh’s Five Point’s East, the new restaurant will be what I believe to be the first brasserie in the region. If they serve good mussels, then this will be one of my regular haunts.

Finally, I’m waiting for the restaurants to open in the new development that is going up next to my office on Lake Boone Trail. It’s my understanding that there is space for 4 restaurants to go in there, but I’m particularly interested in who will take over the 5,000 square foot restaurant.


The Prodigal Ruhlman Returns

September 19, 2007

Michael Ruhlman, the celebrated and near-ubiquitous foodwriter for the stars (hah!), will be returning to Durham for a few days beginning this Sunday. The Duke (and note I did not fall back on the overused “DOOK”) grad will be conducting a reading at the Regulator Bookshop on Sunday and hosting a true kafee klatch at 3CUPS in Chapel Hill on Tuesday morning. The highlight of Ruhlman’s return to the South will be a 5-course dinner Monday night at Piedmont Restaurant. This dinner is co-sponsored by BlogTogether, a North Carolina-based community of bloggers. I’ll be going and if I retain any memory of the event, I’ll be sure to report back. I understand there may be a couple of tickets still available, so go here to get more information on this great dinner. Who knows, Ruhlman may even let you kiss his ring.


A couple of my favorite photos

September 18, 2007

From the back of a pickup in rural North Carolina . . .

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From the Skylight Inn in Ayden, NC. One of the hardest working men in the BBQ business.

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Los Cuates – Why would you ever go to a chain???

September 14, 2007

The Triangle, and Durham in particular, is flush with good, authentic Mexican restaurants. Some are true taquerias and others are more full service establishments. Colman Andrews had a feature on the Durham Latino scene in the September Gourmet. No mention was made of Raleigh, and that’s probably appropriate, as we certainly don’t have the number of Mexican restaurants as the Bull City.

Nevertheless, we do have my favorite lunch place, Los Cuates, located (where else?) in a non-descript strip mall in North Raleigh (4524 Old Wake Forest Rd.). I eat here about once a week, getting a couple of lengua tacos, or a green chile burrito, or a torta. And I always — ALWAYS — get one of their refreshing agua frescas, which now come in 6 flavors. They have a condiment bar with 4 different salsas, some pickled carrots & jalapenos, cucumbers, radishes and lime. Chips are complimentary. Oh, and that burrito and agua fresca will set you back a whopping 6 bucks, with tax and tip.

Sure, you order at the counter. And yes, it’s not the fanciest place in the world. But it’s always good if not great. I love this place.

But my big question is why the hell is this place almost always 2/3 empty and places like Moe’s or Chipotle are inevitably packed to the rafters (and be careful, I just might slug the next person who “welcomes me” to Moe’s next time)? Are we, as a consuming, eating society, that dumb? I’m not without hope, as I see big crowds at Dos Taquitos all the time (but that just might be because of their margaritas!).

Think about it, you can go to Moe’s and get crappier, less tasty food that costs more money, still ordering at the counter. You can get your sweet tea or Diet Coke. At Los Cuates, the food and drink choices are far more extensive, but you don’t even need to be adventurous. You can get your chicken burrito or steak taco (and they’ll actually taste like chicken and steak, too!!). But there’s so much more. And it all tastes so much better. So dare to make a change and go somewhere other than the usual joints and support the owners of this great establishment.

Los Cuates

4524 Old Wake Forest Rd.

Raleigh, NC 27609

919-872-6012

(they also have a drive-thru at 3505 Capital Blvd.)


Ed Mitchell To Open Barbecue Joint in Raleigh

September 12, 2007

ed-mitchell.jpg As I posted earlier today at eGullet, Ed Mitchell, the famed “Pitmaster” of eastern style North Carolina barbecue, has a deal in the works with local developer/restaurateur Greg Hatem to open a new barbecue joint in Raleigh. Gourmet’s “Diary of a Foodie” was filming a segment on Mitchell in his hometown of Wilson, NC on Monday. It will be interesting to see how things work out, as Mitchell is still involved in litigation regarding his previous restaurant.

Mitchell is certainly a great promoter and he can make some mighty fine barbecue, and I hope his partnering with Hatem will give him the business expertise that he always lacked. Mitchell is a flawed businessman and readily points the finger at others for his failings. And Hatem hasn’t always had a great relationship with chefs, as evidenced by the toxic break-up with Ashley Christensen. Regardless, Raleigh could FINALLY be a barbecue destination. I can’t wait for that.


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