As for whether white tablecloth ‘cue can succeed . . . It’s a lot like Batali and Del Posto; “ethnic,” “comfort,” and “regional” cuisines face a much steeper uphill battle when trying to go upscale. Fans fear that they’ll (in the words of Flatt & Scruggs) get above their raisin’, and the haute lockjawed crowd either fears an influx of Goobers or disdains a culinary tradition that didn’t originate where their ancestors did. Either way, it’s a hard slog. I wish them the best. It’s good food.