Eno Restaurant & Market to Open in Durham

June 26, 2008

The folks behind Raleigh’s Zely & Ritz have combined forces with local food enthusiast and bon vivant Jamie DeMent to open a new farm-to-table restaurant in Durham, Eno Restaurant & Market.  Scheduled to open at the end of this year, Richard Holcomb and Sarig Agasi, will open in partnership with Holcomb’s Coon Rock Farm in the Fire Station Building in downtown Durham.

A native North Carolinian, DeMent was raised around her family’s farm supply store and developed an interest in organically farmed foods and environmental issues after seeing nearby farms slowly disappear throughout her childhood. Holcomb, who began Coon Rock Farm in 2005 after 20 successful years as a software entrepreneur, is pleased to have a new outlet for his heirloom vegetables and pasture raised meats including chickens (and some of the best eggs around), pork, lamb, goat and more.

The restaurant’s menu will be dictated by Coon Rock Farm’s harvest and the season.  In addition to the vegetables, expect to see house-made bacon, whole hog terrines, pates and sausages. Eno will tap into other local providers for dairy products and other staples for the restaurant.

One of the cool parts of Eno comes from their restaurant staff work-share program, where cooks and servers alike will be involved in the growing of vegetables and raising of livestock.  It’s their belief that this involvement of the staff from farm to restaurant will make a big difference in what is ultimately put on the diners’ plates.  Very interesting.

In addition, Coon Rock Farm will offer its goods at a retail market adjacent to the restaurant , essentially bringing the farm to the customer.

Eno Restaurant & Market will serve lunch and dinner daily, and brunch on the weekends.

Eno Restaurant & Market

Rogers Alley

101 City Hall Plaza

Durham, NC

www.enorestaurantandmarket.com


World’s Simplest Cobbler

June 26, 2008

(This is a big old cobbler with lots of peaches before baking.  Photo courtesy of Jason Perlow.  I don’t have a shot of the finished product, so you’ll just have to make it to see how good it looks!)

People love them some cobbler.  I knew I made a lot of people happy when I recently posted my recipe for Bill Neal’s Four Berry Cobbler, which certainly wasn’t a secret (I don’t believe in secret recipes, quite honestly — especially for home cooks).  But that’s not the only type of cobbler I make: one of my favorite desserts is a simple peach cobbler where the crust makes itself.  Yup, you don’t have to make a biscuit dough and cobble it on top — you  start with a simple cake-like batter that creates its own crust as you bake.  It’s extraordinarily simple, and you really can use any kind of fruit you want, but I prefer peaches.

This recipe came from the wonderful cookbook, Coastal Carolina Cooking, which is very near and dear to me because the first chapter focuses on my wife’s late grandparents, Emest and Katherine Taylor, from the Currituck County town of Maple (population 50, including livestock).  This cookbook is a treasure trove of wonderful stories and great recipes, but the one I use more than anything else is the one for Cherry Cobbler.  And I rarely make it with cherries. Read the rest of this entry »


Herons Names New Executive Chef

June 23, 2008

The Umstead Hotel‘s Herons Restaurant has a new executive chef, Paul Kellum, who comes from Vail’s Blue Moon Restaurant and Bar.  Kellum replaces Phil Evans after Evans’ sudden and somewhat mysterious departure from Herons.

Here’s a link to Kellum’s menu at the Blue Moon.  I’ll be interested to see what he does here in North Carolina.


Thanks to Dana at gogoraleigh for the tip!


Ed Mitchell Kicks South Carolina’s Butt on NBC

June 23, 2008

Raleigh’s Ed Mitchell went head to head with South Carolina pitmaster James Hagood on NBC’s Today show this morning, in a battle between NC and SC barbecue.  Of course, Ed’s barbecue was the unanimous winner among the three judges.

Click here for the video.

And be sure to look for newlywed Greg Hatem in the background!


New North Carolina Barbecue Book Coming

June 23, 2008

I received in the mail a notice from UNC Press about a book that will be coming out in November, a book on North Carolina barbecue with the title, “Holy Smoke: The Big Book of North Carolina Barbecue.”  Yeah, I know — “Just what we need, another barbecue book.”  That’s what I thought, too., until I saw who wrote this sucker: John Shelton Reed, Dale Volberg Reed, and William McKinney.  I know each of these individuals, but Will McKinney is a friend who may be more knowledgeable about NC barbecue than anyone I know.  How knowledgeable?  Well, how many people have spent HUNDREDS of hours gathering oral interviews from owners and pitmasters of NC barbecue establishments?  How many people can say they founded the North Carolina BBQ Society — when they were a student??? McKinney has a passion for barbecue that few can match, so I’m quite sure his contributions were invaluable to this book.

John Shelton Reed is not a historian or a food writer by trade; he’s a sociologist, and that makes this book even more exciting in my mind.  It’s the human dynamic of barbecue that fascinates me, and I really can’t wait to dive into this book.  Professor Reed and his wife are two of the leading authorities on Southern culture (if you haven’t read their book, 1001 Things Everyone Should Know About the South, you need to), so I’m pretty darned sure that this book on barbecue won’t disappoint you.


Changes at the News & Observer

June 17, 2008

The News & Observer, like most newspapers, is struggling with the competition from the internet. No story there, but today the N&O announced it was reducing its workforce by 70 people, including 16 from the newsroom. Among those who are no longer with the N&O is food editor Amber Nimocks, who played a large part in dramatically improving the paper’s food and dining content. Along with Andrea Weigl, Greg Cox, and several free lance writers (including former editor Debbie Moose), the N&O had one of the country’s best food sections for a regional paper.

The parent of the N&O, The McClatchy Co., instigated the changes as a result of huge losses nationwide. The Charlotte Observer, another McClatchy company, will be even harder hit, losing 123 positions. The features departments of the two newspapers, which includes the food sections, will collaborate on future stories. So don’t be surprised if you see a Kathleen Purvis byline more frequently in the N&O, which is definitely not a bad thing.

All is not lost, however, and I expect the N&O to continue to put out great food stories. Andrea Weigl is remaining with the paper, and Nimocks will write free lance stories from time to time. Nimocks’ editorial presence will be missed, but let’s hope they’ll fill in the gaps. It’s a tough time for print media, so be sure to give the N&O your support if you want to continue seeing good local food writing.


Improvising

June 17, 2008

I hosted a small dinner party on Saturday where I planned to make a dinner that really highlighted what was fresh at the North Carolina Farmers Market. I picked up some plums, raspberries and blackberries, as I planned on making a plum tart served with berries. I bought some great looking tomatoes and basil for a basic mozzarella and tomato salad. When I got home, every damn thing started to go wrong.

The tomatoes were not that good. In fact, they were a little mealy. But they had decent enough flavor. So I pureed the tomatoes and strained them in a cheesecloth, collecting the tomato “water.” I then cooked the tomato water, reducing it by two-thirds. I added a bit of salt and served this essence of tomato with the mozzarella and basil and just a drop of aged balsamic vinegar. It was a really great starter for our meal and very light.

The other problem was the plums — they were way too hard to just plop on top of a tart, so I decided to poach them briefly in some riesling. I got distracted for a few minutes, and before you knew it, those plums had disintegrated. Ugh. Rather than making a plum tart with berries on the side, I reversed things, making a classic fresh berry tart with pastry creme (glazed with some wonderful blackberry-rosemary jelly I had in the fridge) and served with a plum-riesling gelato. I ran my plum mush through a food mill and made ice cream out of it. Frankly, this worked out better than my original plan, as the gelato was incredibly creamy, tart and just damn good.

So, when life gives you stewed plums, just make ice cream out of it!


Raleigh is Smokin’

June 12, 2008

If you live in the Triangle, you’re having to deal with all the smoke due to the wildfires in coastal North Carolina. The air quality is pretty bad right now, and it’ll probably get worse before it gets better.

The funny thing about this (if anything can be funny about wildfires) came from when I went to The Pit for lunch today. For the first time ever, the air outside The Pit was smokier than inside. And that’s saying something.


A Tragedy of Vegetarian Proportions

June 10, 2008

Wow, the classic Greek tragedy, Oedipus Rex, played by potatoes, tomatoes, broccoli and a supporting cast of vegetables!

Yes, it’s a great video, but why vegetables??

Thanks to Bob del Grosso.


Four Berry Cobbler

June 9, 2008

Many gastronomes have a food “epiphany,” and I’m no exception. It was either 1985 or 1986, and my roommate and I went to Crook’s Corner for the first time. Crook’s was still run by Bill Neal, the “godfather” of Southern cooking, and I remember that meal like it was yesterday. She crab soup. Pimento cheese. Shrimp and grits. And a dessert that has become my primary summer staple — a four berry cobbler featuring sweet butter biscuits.

I talked to Bill Neal a fair amount back then, when I’d sit at the bar, being completely clueless about food and slowly soaking things in. I was a major science geek — working on my Ph.D. in molecular pathology of all things — but I had a love for history. And Bill Neal was certainly a food historian. Read the rest of this entry »


Professional Status

June 6, 2008

In my post about my great trip to Washington, DC with my son over Memorial Day weekend, I was a bit surprised to see a couple of fairly snarky comments posted. I believe the comments were directed toward me from something I wrote in my “review” of The Mint, where I said, “The chef appeared to have a pedigree of having worked at a couple of Rocky Top Hospitality establishments, which might be a fine job, but it’s not something to base your resume on.”

Obviously, I offended one reader in particular, who posted the following: “Very nice post. Lucky for your son you don’t have an embarrassing job like Rocky Top chef.”

A week later, he posted this: “Imagine how they spend their weekends….actually I can’t say anymore sarcastically…just wish you would apologize for your rude comment, or at least comment further.”

I obviously struck a nerve with this individual, and I didn’t realize why until this morning: he thought I was saying that a chef who worked at Rocky Top had a demeaning job. And you know what? I may be guilty as charged.

I certainly had no intention of offending anyone. I really try to be nice on this blog (even to Greg Cox most of the time)! However, in trying to make a point, I screwed up.

I was only trying to say that even though a chef at Rocky Top might be a fine job, it’s not one that makes me think of “creative chef.” Rocky Top is a successful restaurant group, but it’s not one known for innovative cuisine. It’s a pretty corporate group. In saying that, I did not intend to demean anyone who works there. But I probably did, and for that, I apologize.

We all make a living, whether it’s as a chef, a lawyer, a bricklayer or an engineer. How one makes a living makes one no better than another, however, there will always be a perceived hierarchy within each job type. The lawyer who works at the big firm will typically be thought of with higher regard in the bar than the sole practitioner. Not always, but usually.

The chef heading up a Michelin-starred restaurant will garner more accolades and attention than the line cook at Denny’s. It doesn’t mean that the Michelin chef is a better person than the line cook, but it certainly comes off as being a bigger accomplishment.

Similarly, someone who graduates from the Culinary Institute of America is going to be looked at as having been better trained than someone who completed the culinary program at Wake Tech.

In each of these cases, it does not mean that one person is better at their job than the other. It gives them the benefit of the doubt, but that’s it. Most importantly, it does not mean that being the classically trained chef makes him or her a better PERSON than the Wake Tech grad.

And so, dear readers, I truly meant no harm in my statement that working as a Rocky Top chef is nothing on which to base a resume. I apologize to all the Rocky Top chefs who put in the long hours, serving delicious food to the folks of Raleigh. Thanks for understanding.


Nonprofit Restaurant in Charlotte

June 4, 2008

As many of you know, I love New Orleans. More than a year after the devastation of Katrina, I decided to run a half-marathon in the Crescent City in an effort to raise funds for a charity of my choice. The problem was that I didn’t know which charity to support. I asked my good buddy Brooks Hamaker for a list of charities, and among those was Café Reconcile.

I like to contribute to charities that invest in people. Sure, I’ll give money to Habitat for Humanity and to the arts, but the lion’s share of our charitable contributions go to organizations that offer programs to improve the lives of others. Heck, I’m the Vice Chair of the Lucy Daniels Center for Early Childhood, a world-class organization that promotes the healthy emotional development of young children (and a tremendous organization if you’re looking for a cause!).

Café Reconcile also invests in people by giving at-risk youth an opportunity to learn life and interpersonal skills and operational training for successful entry into the hospitality and restaurant industries. New Orleans needs skilled workers to support its vital restaurant industry, and Cafe Reconcile plays a major part in that development. Café Reconcile is an honest to goodness restaurant, serving honest to goodness down-home food. Trainees work the kitchen and the front of the house. They learn about the business of the industry. And then Café Reconcile help find their people jobs. Some folks, like Emeril Lagasse, actively recruit Café Reconcile grads. Read the rest of this entry »


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