My Favorite Roast Chicken

September 29, 2009

crooks

(This story was published today in the News & Observer’s food blog, Mouthful.  I was a guest blogger while Andrea Weigl is on vacation.)

As I previously wrote, we in the Triangle are fortunate to have so many great chefs and cookbook writers, and one of my favorite collection of recipes comes from my good friend, Bill Smith, chef of Chapel Hill’s iconic restaurant, Crook’s Corner.  I remember first meeting Smith about four years ago, and I was foolish enough to ask him if he thought Crook’s had become a Bill Neal museum.  He was not at all offended, and he responded by saying that a large part of Bill Neal will always be with Crook’s, but that the restaurant is mostly his.

And it is.

Smith’s emphasis is on simplicity, using great ingredients, and one of his creations has become a Sunday staple in our house.  It’s a basic roast chicken that is slathered with Jalapeño Tabasco Sauce, also known as “Green Tabasco.”  The resulting bird and its fantastic sauce are only slightly spicy, but full of flavor.  The chicken can be eaten hot, but it’s also great cold the next day.  I particularly enjoy slicing the chicken for sandwiches, as with some fresh mayonnaise, it’s a combination that can’t be beat.  One of these days I’m going to use the leftover chicken and sauce for an open-faced hot chicken sandwich.  That might just be illegally good.  {Recipe after the jump.} Read the rest of this entry »


The Best Birthday Present Ever

September 28, 2009

carrotI turned 46 on Saturday and celebrated with a big party, drinking lots of tequila, eating tacos, and just having a great time.  A bunch of people ignored my “no gifts” requirement, of course, and now I have more tequila than I started with and a lot of great looking wines.  But the best gift I received came from my wife.

My wife is a very practical woman.  She doesn’t like material things, but she knows that I do.  So this year, I was trying to think what she might be getting me.  She knows I’d like a nice GPS system for my car.  I know she’s aware that I dream of the day that I have a big screen, flat panel TV (we watch most television on an old, 19″ cathode ray set — yeah, I no longer am allowed to carry my “man card”).  So I thought this might be the year that I get something grandiose.

And I did, but this gift was nothing electronic.  What I got was so much better:  a garden.

See, I’ve always wanted a garden.  I tried to do something this year beside the house, but that area just didn’t get nearly enough sun.  Even though we have over half an acre of land, there is only one spot that gets sun nearly all day, and that’s on a hill where nothing could be planted.  So my wife got in touch with one of her close college friends, who is a landscaper, and they’re going to create a two-level terraced garden on that hillside.  It’ll only be about 150-200 square feet, but I can grow a lot there.  And we can set it up properly, with good drainage and fertile soil.

Construction begins next month, and the difficult part will be waiting until next spring to get started.  But dammit, I’m gonna have me a garden, thanks to my wonderful wife.


Donating Truly Fresh Food for the Hungry in Carrboro

September 25, 2009

We’ve all participated in food drives where you donate canned goods or other shelf-stable items to go to a food bank.  It’s a great gesture, and I’m sure that lots of people get fed that way, but these are, by there very nature, processed foods.

I’ve never really seen a food drive involving fresh food, until now.

The Carrboro Farmers’ Market is holding the “FoodShare Challenge” tomorrow, September 26, from 8 AM until noon, where patrons of the market are encouraged to donate an extra bag of fresh food to feed the hungry.  The Farmers’ Market has always been active in helping with hunger causes, donating over 7,500 pounds this summer, but on Saturday, the goal is for customers to donate over 1,000 pounds in a single day.

Andrea Reusing of Chapel Hill’s Lantern Restaurant, has provided generous support to this cause, as have a number of local organizations and businesses.

For more information on the FoodShare Program call or email Margaret Gifford at 919.967.6464 or mgw@well.com, or Sarah Blacklin at 919.280.3326 or info@carrborofarmersmarket.com.


Cookbook Writers, USA

September 24, 2009

I wrote a “guest blog” for the News & Observer’s Mouthful, and this is what got published today.

We’re quite fortunate to live in an area with a plethora of great chefs and restaurants, with the quality of food improving each year.  We have chefs who have won Beard awards, chefs who have been prominently featured in national food magazines, and even chefs who have won silly Iron Chef competitions.

But did you know that we also have an amazing number of cookbook writers here in the Triangle?  Sure, a lot of those cookbook writers are chefs themselves, such as Ben and Karen Barker of Durham’s Magnolia Grill, Bill Smith of Crook’s Corner, Mildred Council of Mama Dip’s, or Andrea Reusing of Chapel Hill’s Lantern, who has her first cookbook coming out next year.

We also have a bunch of folks who are not chefs.  There are a few people who write for the News & Observer, such as former food editor Debbie Moose and columnist Fred Thompson.  Moose has written entire books on single topics, such as deviled eggs, wings, or potato salad.  She’s also written about food for tailgating!  Thompson also has written his fair share of single topic books, but his are typically focused on beverages, such as lemonade, iced tea, hot chocolate, and, soon enough, bourbon!  He’s also written about seafood and grilling with gas.

We’re also blessed to have Raleigh native,  Jean Anderson, one of the country’s most prominent cookbook writers, living in the area.  Anderson has written over 20 cookbooks, including “A Love Affair With Southern Cooking” (which won the Beard award for best “Americana” cookbook) and “The New Doubleday Cookbook.”  Anderson’s books have received numerous awards, and ten years ago, she was honored for her body of work by being inducted into the James Beard Cookbook Hall of Fame.

One of my favorite people in the world, and a super cookbook writer, is Nancie McDermott of Chapel Hill.  Her “Southern Cakes” has been a big hit in my family, and we recently made an ultra-rich peanut cake from that book (recipe to come in a future blog post).  This book continues to be a strong seller on Amazon, and that’s because the cakes are fantastic and not overly complicated.  I also understand that she’ll soon be coming out with a book on Southern pies, so that’s good news for all pastry chefs in the area.  Interestingly, McDermott is perhaps better known for her cookbooks on Asian food (she was a Peace Corps volunteer in Thailand), and these are great sources to folks who have no clue how to cook Asian dishes.  I can personally vouch that these books have helped me become a much better cook of Asian food.

Another great writer is Sara Foster, who scored a big hit with her “Foster’s Market Cookbook” in 2002.  Durham’s Foster’s Market has been a mainstay for area foodies for years, and her three cookbooks have sold well.

I’d be remiss if I failed to mention what I still consider the most influential cookbook ever to come from the Triangle, “Bill Neal’s Southern Cooking,” by the late, great co-founder of Crook’s Corner.  My food epiphany came at Crook’s over 25 years ago, and Neal’s wonderful book came out shortly thereafter.  ”Southern Cooking” is not just a collection of recipes, it’s a book focusing on the history and sociology of Southern food.  Neal’s influence on Southern cooking is unquestioned, and his three books remain definitive sources on the cuisine.

So which local cookbook writers have I omitted?  I’m sure there are plenty, so let’s get a solid list put together, and then we can remind ourselves of how lucky we truly are.


Tacos for a Crowd

September 23, 2009

181941_taquiza

It’s my birthday on Saturday, and rather than going out to dinner, I decided to do what I enjoy the most: cook for others.  I suspected it might be a sizable crowd, so I decided to just serve tacos, which are easy, can be eaten while standing up, and are still incredibly tasty.

So last weekend, I smoked a beef brisket and two pork shoulders (thanks for the use of the Weber Smoky Mountain Cooker, Chad).  The brisket was too lean and is consequently a bit dry, so I’ll be sure to toss it with some sort of sauce before serving, maybe a roasted tomato chipotle salsa.  Any suggestions.

The pork is nice and unctuous, with lots of fatty parts throughout.  I may cut it up into cubes and through it in a hot cast iron skillet to give it some more brown bits — a quick style carnitas, of sorts.  I’m thinking a green chili salsa would work with that.  Or I could do a quick “pastor” style dish with some roasted pineapple.

I’ve got a bunch of boneless chicken thighs that I want to cook, but I haven’t figured out what to do with them.  Any ideas, folks?

My friend Phoebe is getting me freshly made corn tortillas from Taqueria La Vaquita in Durham.

The only side I’ll make is a big pot of Rancho Gordo beans that can be served in cups.  It will be vegetarian, so there will be something for my non-carnivorous friends.

Other than that, we’ll have some queso fresco, cilantro, lime, onions and avocado.  Am I missing anything?

Oh, tequila and cerveza, of course.  I picked up 5 bottles of tequila and 2 bottles of Cointreau.  That’s a good start.

For dessert, we’ll have Mexican chocolate sandwich cookies (filled with dulce de leche), Mexican wedding cookies, cinnamon pound cake, and vanilla pound cake.

It should be a lot of fun, and I’ve already done most of the work, except for the chicken and the salsas.  This way I can just put out food at a casual pace and not worry too much.  I may not know much about Mexican cooking, but that’s not gonna stop me.  Now where did I put that shot glass??

I really don’t know what I’m doing, just winging it as I go along.


Are Chefs Antisocial?

September 21, 2009

I’ve always preferred to host a dinner party than to go to one.  My birthday is this Saturday, and rather than hitting the town, I’m doing what I enjoy the most: cooking for friends.  I think I’ve finally figured out why this is: I’m somewhat of an antisocial individual.

Now if you know me personally, you may argue, but hear me out.  I love being around other people, but unless I’m in control of the situation, I’m often uncomfortable or at a loss for words.  Cocktail parties are somewhat difficult for me, as I’m terrible at making small talk.  When my law firm holds social functions, I struggle to find the right thing to say, even with my friends.

But when I’m cooking at my house, I’m in charge of everything.  I don’t have to maintain a conversation if I don’t want to, because I have the food to attend to.  I can always leave the dinner table to take care of something in the kitchen.  Sure, I love company while I’m cooking, and I love to make cocktails and pour wine, but those are interactions where I’m controlling the situation.  And I don’t have to sustain any lengthy dialog.  If you know me, you know I like to host dinner parties.

I also love being the center of attention, strangely enough.

And it is these characteristics that I often see in chefs.  They are most comfortable behind the stove, when they are in control.  They love to “perform” for others and enjoy receiving feedback and adulation from their customers.  But take many (not all) of those chefs away from their kitchens, and they’re somewhat awkward.  Just like me.  Or except when they’re around others in the industry, and then all bets are off.

So, is this somewhat dichotomous antisocial/center of attention personality as common with chefs as I think.  Or is it really — and I mean this literally — just me?


How Well Do You Know Fast Food?

September 17, 2009

OK, take this test on the top 50 “quick serve” restaurants in the country and see how you do.  I got all but 1 of the top 20 and a total of 28 out of 50.

There are a lot of other interesting quizzes on the Sporcle website.


School Kids Raise Lamb; Send It to the Abbatoir

September 15, 2009

lamb

I read this story earlier today about a group of English schoolchildren who raised a lamb for several months.  Then, by a 13-1 vote, they decided to send the lamb to the slaughterhouse, its intended destination all along.  Yes, the kids, through their elected council of 6 to 11 year olds, voted to end the lamb’s life.

Of course, parents and animal rights groups were up in arms.  They claimed that the kids could have learned about how wool is made instead.  The money raised from the lamb was supposed to be used to buy some piglets to raise.  Those plans are now on hold.

I actually applaud the school for doing this.  We are a society of meat eaters.  Whether it’s the burger or nuggets from McDonald’s, the pepperoni on the pizza, or the bacon you had for breakfast, an animal gave its life for that meal.  Teaching children about the reality of the source of our food is important.  Might it result in more vegetarians?  Probably, and that’s not a bad thing.  I try to remind my children about meat, and no matter how you look at it, it’s inhumane to eat it.  But it’s also the way our world works, and as long as we attempt to understand this process, we’re better off.  And as you know, I’m nowhere close to being a vegetarian.

I almost wonder if groups like PETA would actually be better off if they promoted this type of exercise everywhere.  Yes, one animal would be sacrificed, but if just one child becomes a vegetarian as a result, think of how many animals would be saved.  It’s a philosophical and moral dilemma for sure, but an interesting one.


My Life As a Line Cook

September 14, 2009

globe

When I made the decision that I wanted to try working in a restaurant, I knew that I was not cut out for the business.  I’m too old, too fat, and too lazy.  I have some decent skills, but what works at home probably doesn’t translate to the restaurant kitchen.  Speed is king in the restaurant, so I’ve been told, but not at the expense of precision.  So, you have to go fast and still do it right, eh?  No problem.  That’s the beauty of volunteering to cook in a restaurant, as the worst thing that can happen if you fuck things up is that they’ll ask you to leave.  So really, it’s no pressure at all.

Right.

Read the rest of this entry »


Another Way to Help a Family in Need

September 14, 2009

mojo

The restaurant community certainly came out to support the family of Ashley Ramos-Hernandez, the young girl who was tragically killed while getting off her bus, and one more local chef has stepped up to help.  Mel Melton, the chef-owner of Papa Mojo’s Roadhouse, is also in a popular blues/zydeco band, Mel Melton & The Wicked Mojos, and they have a new CD out.  Mel will donate 100% of the proceeds of the sale of a box of his band’s CD to Ashley’s parents — that’s $450 if he sells all 30 copies in the box.

If you want a copy of the CD, just contact Mel through the restaurant’s website at contact@papamojosroadhouse.com or by calling at 919-361-2222, telling him you want to buy a CD to benefit Ashley’s family.  He’ll take care of the rest.


100 Cocktails To Try Before You Die

September 8, 2009

cocktail__2

After a 2 week “vacation” from blogging, I’m back.  Thanks for sticking with me while I was gone, but I have a lot to write about in the next few weeks.

We’ve all seen the various lists of 100 places to go before you die, or the 1,000 recordings you must own to ever be considered moderately cool in a musical circle.

There’s a new list for cocktails, and frankly, I like this one.  A lot.

It’s the “100 Cocktails To Try Before You Die” and it all fits on one page.  It was developed by the folks at Houston’s Anvil Bar & Refuge, and although on first blush it may appear to have been designed to be a marketing gimmick, it’s really a great instructional tool.  As stated by Robert “Bobby” Heugel, one of the Anvil’s co-owners, on eGullet, “[T]his list was about giving people who might be new to cocktails a walk-through that would give them an appreciation and historical perspective on a decent drink.”

I like the fact that the list was not designed to be the “100 Best Cocktails Ever.”  It’s different than that.  It shows how a change in an ingredient can substantially affect the flavor.  It offers a broad range of cocktails to give the casual drinker a chance to explore intelligently. Of course, discussions have already started about what drinks were improperly omitted and which ones should be removed from the list.  Heugel responds, “The point though is that this is how our bar has chosen to go about educating people about cocktails. It shares our perspective on drinks with guests to our bars and was never intended to be a online list about the best 100 cocktails ever. If this was the goal of the list, it would definitely be different.”

I went through the list and am embarrassed that I’ve had maybe a third of the 100.  I’m not planning on dying anytime soon, but I’m going to start moving my way through this list pretty quickly — just in case.


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