618 Bistro to Open This Week

October 26, 2009

618 Bistro, a Mediterranean-influenced restaurant, should be open by mid-week at Raleigh’s Marketplace at Lake Boone, according to its manager and operating partner, Carolyn Ghezzi.  Chef Alex Azzam previously ran the kitchen at Ciao! Osteria in Apex, but his prior focus on Italian food is not what 618 Bistro is all about: the cuisine here is very broad, including Thai, Middle Eastern, and Italian influences.  The lunch menu features salads, panini and a handful of other items.

The website is live, the prices are reasonable, the staff is excited, and they even have a nice outdoor dining area, which is great this time of the year.

But most importantly, this place is next door to my office, so it gives me another place to walk to for lunch.  It is all about me, right?


Herons Part 2 — First Day Dinner Service

October 20, 2009

(Note — This is the second of several parts regarding my two days spent in the Herons’ kitchen.)

Chef Steven Greene and I walked out to the front of the house to address the waitstaff, letting them know what tonight’s amuse bouche was and to inform them that we were not out of any items on the menu.   They looked at me, the new guy, trying to figure out who I was.  Later on, one of the waiters asked me if I were the new sous chef.  I had to laugh after informing him that I was just hanging around for a couple of days.

Tonight’s dinner would not be particularly busy, with maybe only 35 or 40 customers.  Chef Greene and I made a sample  bouche, and he had me taste it.  ”Too much salt,” I responded, as the 5 or 6 grains of sea salt overpowered the scallop and yuzu mignonette.  We determined that two grains was the perfect amount, and this small bite of shellfish, apple, radish and citrus was a flavor explosion.  The guests would like this one. Read the rest of this entry »


A Stage in Herons — Part 1

October 18, 2009

Herons Kitchen

(Note — This is the first of several parts regarding my two days spent in the Herons’ kitchen.)

DAY 1 — PREP WORK

It was a week before I had planned on spending two days working in the kitchen of Herons, the ultra-swank restaurant in the deluxe Umstead Hotel & Spa in Cary.  I had worked in a small restaurant the month before, but I knew this experience would be different.  A lot different.  I had asked Chef Scott Crawford what I needed to wear and bring, and I got this email response:

We are very much looking forward to seeing you next week. We are very busy next week, so you will see some action. You can arrive any time around 2:00 or shortly after and I will meet you in the lobby. If you give me your jacket size I will have one ready for you. I recommend you wear a white t-shirt under the chef jacket. Black pants are appropriate. I will provide you with an apron. You can bring a knife kit. We will have you doing a rotation through the stations so you get an overall understanding of how we organize. On some of those stations you will need some knife skills (I hope you’ve been practicing).

Crap.  I don’t have any black chef pants, so I was wondering if I could get away with just some everyday, black cotton chinos.  And what about the shoes?  I knew this was a formal kitchen, so I needed to play the role properly.  So I went and bought me a pair of black chef pants and ordered some black chef shoes.  Heck they were on sale, so better to be safe than sorry. Read the rest of this entry »


Returning to the Restaurant Kitchen

October 11, 2009

I’ll be back in action this week, when I work a couple of shifts at Herons, the fantastic restaurant in Cary’s posh Umstead Hotel.  I’ll be in the Herons’ kitchen on Tuesday and Wednesday from 2 to 11 PM, and I suspect this will be different than my last go-around at Raleigh’s Globe Restaurant.  At Globe, I essentially just stepped in and did whatever was needed.  They gave me a bib and then just started having me prepare for an unexpectedly busy dinner service.  There wasn’t much organization, just a lot of craziness.

At Herons, I’ll have a training matrix.  What the hell is a training matrix?  I had to Google it, and I suspect that what it means is that Chef Scott Crawford is focused on making sure that I learn something out of this while not completely fucking up his dinner service.  I’ll have a chef’s jacket.  I have to wear black pants and have been told to bring my knife kit.  I’ve been told that my knife skills will be tested.  I can envision it now: “You call that a goddamn brunoise?  Throw that crap away and do it again!”

Actually, that’s now how Crawford leads, and so I suspect that I’ll get treated better than that.  But I’ll still probably be asked to do it again.

I know Herons is a little more expensive than Globe, but this is a completely different dining experience.  Come on out and give the place a try on Tuesday or Wednesday.  Scott Crawford won’t let me screw things up that badly.


The FTC and Me

October 5, 2009

As a health care attorney, I’ve had to work with the Federal Trade Commission, as they are the agency that enforces the antitrust laws (along with the Justice Department).  Frankly, the FTC can be a royal pain in the ass, but I understand their purpose in the antitrust world.  The FTC also regulates advertising to the extent that it may be deceptive or misleading, and they just adopted new rules that require bloggers to disclose whenever they receive anything in value in exchange for a review.

Wow.

Now I believe in full disclosure, and in the one instance that I accepted a fully complementary meal, I disclosed that fact.  However, I also informed the restaurant that providing that gratis meal did not mean that I would review the restaurant and certainly did not guarantee that they’d receive praise.  Frankly, I really don’t write restaurant reviews for the most part.  In this case, however, I did write about the restaurant because I loved it.  If I didn’t like it, I would probably not have written anything at all.

But with the new FTC rules, bloggers like me have to be worried whenever we receive anything of value.  If I’m at a restaurant and the chef sends out an extra course, do I need to disclose that?  What about if the chef has no idea who I am?  I would argue that in the latter case, the extra course has nothing to do with providing something of value in exchange for reviews — it’s just a nice thing to do.  And in the first case, assuming the chef knows me, I would argue that the extra course was sent out with the hope– but not the expectation — that I might provide a favorable review.  That might fall short of the FTC’s requirement.  However, the bottom line is that the FTC wants to ensure that reviews are not bought, and if they are, then it should be disclosed.

So to ensure that I don’t run afoul of federal requirements (which, at this point, aren’t really law, just guidelines), I offer the following blanket statement that addresses everything I write about in this blog:

“I don’t write true reviews, but I do offer my thoughts on various aspects of the food and restaurant industries.  I also write about food and my family.  I sometimes may receive a discounted meal or free drink or a slab of bacon, primarily because I’ve pretty much immersed myself in the food world.  I generally only write about places I like, so if a restaurant gives me something for free, and it sucks, I won’t write about it.  If they give me something for free and I like it, I’ll probably write about it.  If they don’t give me a thing and I like it, I’ll probably write about it, too.  I also am biased in that I’m much more likely to write about places where my friends work.  I like to write about my friends who are chefs, and I have to admit that they have indeed given me something of value: their friendship.  From time to time, they give me a free dish.  I may not always disclose that, because I really think that what my friends do is our own business.  I am horribly biased by that relationship, so please do not be misled into thinking I’m fully objective when writing about their restaurants.  I try, but you know how friendships work.  So if I write about a restaurant or a food item, just assume that my objectivity has been compromised in some manner.”

And if that’s not good enough for the FTC, then I guess I better start boning up on my legal defense skills.


Poole’s Diner Supporting Another Great Cause

October 5, 2009

safechildPoole’s Downtown Diner is hosting a special fundraiser for a special organization, SAFEchild, on Sunday, October 18th from 6 to 9 PM.  Y’all know plenty about Poole’s and chef Ashley Christensen, how she’s been featured in the national press, how she’s been invited to cook with the top chefs in the country — with an invitation to cook at the posh Blackberry Farm for the Southern Foodways Alliance’s “Taste of the South” in January.  I write about Ashley a lot because she’s a fantastic cook, a better person, and a dear friend.

And now she’s supporting one of my favorite organizations in the Triangle: SAFEchild.

Never heard of them?  Well, you should.  SAFEchild is Wake County’s only non-profit private agency working to prevent child abuse.  They offer nearly a dozen different programs, focusing on everything from helping new parents deal with the sudden changes in their lives to working with men who suffered abuse and are now struggling to fight the urge to act out violently against their own children.  The frustration of parents’ struggles often is manifested in violence against children, and with so many families hurting economically in these trying times, the children suffer even more.

SAFEchild is a voice for those children, and this is an opportunity to combine your love for food with a contribution to a good cause.

So think about what you’re doing on the 18th, and if you’re free, consider heading to Poole’s, where you’ll have some amazing food and wine.  There’s a minimum donation of $150 per person, but that includes all the food you can eat, plus wine.  While you’re there, you also might learn a lot about SAFEchild and the wonderful things they’re doing for our community.  And if you do have plans, please consider making a donation.  Every little bit helps.

Click here for more information on the SAFEchild dinner at Poole’s Diner.


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