Restaurant Review Roulette: Sawasdee

March 31, 2010

I’ve done a pretty good job predicting the number of stars that Greg Cox hands out for the restaurants he’s reviewed since I started this silly little mindless game of prognostication (again, this is for entertainment purposes only — no wagering!).  But this week’s review of Sawasdee Thai Restaurant is one where I really don’t know what he’ll do.  I know Greg likes Asian restaurants.  He also has a pretty good grasp of Thai cuisine.

The problem with Sawasdee (the review, not the restaurant) is that he last reviewed it 11 years ago (3-1/2 stars), and it’s changed a lot since that time.  Moreover, they’ve opened a second larger location in the Pleasant Valley Promenade, so I don’t know if he went to that location, the original off Capital Blvd., or both.  And I must say I haven’t been to Sawasdee (either location) in several years.

Doing a quick search on Chowhound, Sawasdee does not appear to generate the “foodie buzz” that a lot of other Asian restaurants get (see Gourmet Kingdom), so I’m guessing that the food hasn’t really changed.  Frankly, Thai food in Raleigh is similar to Chinese from 10-20 years ago, as every place caters to American tastes, and no one (as far as I know) offers solid, authentic Thai fare.  With that, I’m guessing Sawasdee stays at 3-1/2 stars.  Here are this week’s odds:

5 stars — 5,000 to 1

4.5 stars — 75 to 1

4 stars — 4 to 1

3.5 stars — 3 to 2

3 stars — 2 to 1

2.5 stars — 5 to 1

2 stars — 10 to 1

1 to 1.5 stars — 75 to 1

This is really difficult, and my uncertainty is reflected in the odds above.  Have you been to the new location of Sawasdee?  How many stars will Greg Cox give it???

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(Edit) Three and one-half stars it is!

6 Comments | General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: , , , , | Permalink
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What I Want In Raleigh

March 29, 2010

Raleigh is my home, and I love it here.  It’s a perfect place to raise a family — big enough that we even have a pro sports team, but not so big that we have all the hassles.  We even have a pretty good food scene, but, unfortunately, not as good as our neighbors in Durham and Chapel Hill.  It’s getting better, and I’m confident that it will improve even more over the next several years.

But there are three types of restaurants I’m dying for in Raleigh.

Number 1.  A top-notch, kick-ass pizzeria.  I’m talking Pizzeria Bianco good.  Or Grimaldi’s/Patsy’s/Pick Your Coal Oven NYC favorite good.  Where the crust, the sauce and the toppings rock.  Where the oven is so damn hot that it only takes them a couple minutes to bake the pie.  Where there’s good char on the bottom and the pizza isn’t loaded down with canned pineapple or barbecued chicken or other atrocities.  And if the sauce would never even think of having a granule of sugar in it.

Number 2.  A GREAT burger joint.  No, not a Five Guys.  No, not a Mojo’s and their overcooked patties.  No, not a full-service restaurant that happens to have good burgers on their menu.  I want a place that grinds their own beef (a mix of tasty cuts would be good), bakes their own buns, and yes, even makes their own condiments.  The burgers should be cooked over a wood fire, but if not, over an open flame.  I want beer.  I want fries.  I don’t want much more than that.  No, my friends, Char Grill ain’t all that.  Their burgers aren’t all that flavorful, but they do try (and I do enjoy them just fine).  I don’t want to pay 11 bucks for a burger, either.  Eight is just about right, if it comes with fries.  And not shoestrings, either.  Slightly thicker than those.  From fresh potatoes, cooked twice until brown and crispy.

Third, a really, truly great taqueria.  We’ve actually got some decent ones, but I want meat that’s been smoked, along with some chili peppers.  I want house made tortillas, preferably hand made.  The al pastor should be truly slow cooked with fresh pineapple.  The carnitas need a tender middle, with just a touch of external crunch.  And the salsas should be fresh and impeccable.

These places reside in my fantasy world.  But I think they’ll be coming, soon enough.  And I’ll be there.

23 Comments | General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: , , | Permalink
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More Restaurants Doing Good Things

March 24, 2010

Whenever restaurants and chefs give back to the community, by participating in fundraisers, I like to toot their horns.  When it’s my friends who are doing this, I really  let the world (well, the world that is the Triangle) know.  Here are two great examples.

Ashley Christensen of Poole’s Diner is very passionate about giving back to the community.  I’ve asked her to donate her time for fundraisers, and she’s always come through.  She’s particularly devoted to the Frankie Lemmon School and Foundation, but this time around, she’s not cooking for a cause, she’s going to sit her butt on a fitness cycle and spin away, trying to raise TEN THOUSAND DOLLARS to support the building of a children’s playground.  She’s less than a thousand dollars from her goal, so please go to this site and make a donation.

Another good friend is Parker Kennedy, the owner of downtown Raleigh’s Caffe Luna.  I first met Parker in the weeks before he first opened, over 10 years ago.  Caffe Luna was opening in a location that was cursed, many said, as multiple restaurants opened and quickly closed in that spot.  Caffe Luna is now one of the most successful restaurants in Raleigh, and many restaurants subsequently opened in the area, and thrived.  I think Caffe Luna’s success laid the ground work for many of these other places.

What you may not know about Caffe Luna is that they also give back to the community.  They have raised untold thousands of dollars for Shaw University.  They’re big supporters of the Raleigh Arts community.  And now they’re doing a big fundraiser for the people of Haiti.  Next Tuesday, March 30th, Caffe Luna will feed all comers at Marbles Kids Museum in downtown Raleigh from 6 to 8 PM.  Dinner includes pasta, salad, wine, beer, tea and dessert.  Caffe Luna is donating 100% of the food and beverages and is not keeping one penny.  Marbles is donating the space.  The cost is $30 for adults and $10 for kids 12 and under.  All proceeds will go to the Hope for Haiti Foundation, a non-profit based in Cary. Tickets can be purchased online at http://www.firstgiving.com/benefittosupporthaitifamilies.  Heck, even Firstgiving isn’t taking a cut from this.  Right now, they haven’t sold many tickets, and maybe that’s because people think that Haiti has raised plenty of money, but that’s not the case.  They need help, and this is an easy way to provide it.

So let’s help these establishments, when they’re giving back to the community.  We’re the beneficiaries of their food, and we need to help them when they’re doing the right thing.

2 Comments | chefs, Events, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: , , , , , , , | Permalink
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Restaurant Review Roulette: Bloomsbury Bistro

March 24, 2010

Ah, Greg Cox is about to review the one restaurant that he and I disagree on: Bloomsbury Bistro.  I respect Chef John Toler, and I understand why folks love this restaurant, but after eating there 4 times over the years, I’ve yet to have a meal that left me satisfied.  The menu is disjointed.  The food can sometimes be excellent, but other times, just OK.  The restaurant currently has a 5-star rating, but that rating is from nearly 10 years ago, so it appears Greg is taking another look at it.  Frankly, with the paucity of restaurant openings in the area, this is a good time for him to revisit these “old friends.”

Here are this week’s odds.

5 stars — 2 to 1

4.5  stars — 3 to 2

4 stars — 5 to 1

3.5 stars — 20 to 1

3 stars — 80 to 1

2.5 stars — 1200 to 1

2 stars — 25,000 to 1

1 to 1.5 stars — 9,356,441,000 to 1

So, what’s Bloomsbury Bistro going to get?  If I had to lay down a twenty, I’m guessing 4-1/2 stars (and I’ve repeatedly argued directly with Greg about this place, so maybe I’ve tainted him), but Greg’s fondness for the place may keep it in the 5 star world.

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Edit:  Greg Cox awarded Bloomsbury Bistro 4-1/2 stars.  The review contains no criticisms of the place, so I’m slightly surprised it didn’t get the full 5 stars which it had been carrying.  Of course, this is the first time that Bloomsbury Bistro was reviewed under the N&O’s 5 star system, as it had been a 4 star place and was just bumped up to that 5th star using the new scale.  Anyhow, 4-1/2 stars is probably right for this place.

10 Comments | General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: , , , | Permalink
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A Black Box Dinner

March 23, 2010

My friend Alan is a culinary school grad who has put the world of professional kitchens behind him (at least for now) and is staying at home with his cute, young son.  He and his wife started a tradition a few months ago where they would invite a couple who would bring the ingredients and he would turn them into a meal.  The catch is that these were mystery ingredients, only to be revealed when the guests arrived.  And all the ingredients must be used, but you can supplement with anything in the house.

My wife and I went to Alan’s and Erin’s house some time ago, and he expected me to bring something exotic.  Instead I brought chicken.  Sure, it was really good poulet rouge chicken, but it was still just chicken.  I also brought yellow cauliflower, Arkansas black apples, thyme, lima beans, littleneck clams, red beets, radishes and Meyer lemons.  Alan did a great job, making 3 savory dishes: (1) Roasted beets with apple, wilted beet greens, toasted walnuts and tarragon/thyme vinaigrette; (2) Littleneck clams with Spanish chorizo, fennel, pine nuts and Meyer lemon; and (3) Roasted poulet rouge, with lima beans, radish and leeks, yellow cauliflower puree and jus.

This past Saturday, Alan turned it around, and he and Erin brought the ingredients.

These included farm fresh eggs, bay scallops, blood oranges, fiddleheads, key limes, golden raisins, Israeli couscous, arugula, green garlic, radishes, rainbow chard, and a fucking duck.  No, I’ve never cooked a whole duck before.  No, I’ve never broken down a duck before.  And no, I still really haven’t done either now.  That’s what my sous chef, Alan, was for. Read the rest of this entry »

5 Comments | Cooking, General | Tagged: , , | Permalink
Posted by Varmint

Mea Culpa — Corrections

March 22, 2010

I placed some blame on the N&O editors for misleading its readers regarding an upcoming restaurant review.  Specifically, I stated that the food section on March 10 indicated the review was going to be on Angelina’s Kitchen, and the review was on an altogether different restaurant.  I placed the blame for that mistake on the editors.

I’m the one to blame.

The promo at the top of the page of that food section clearly stated that Greg Cox’s piece on Angelina’s Kitchen was for his Quick Bites column.  I did not see that and thought it was for a full-blown review.  My mistake.  My responsibility.  Although I stand behind my belief that the editing quality at the N&O has dropped, the editors were A-OK on this one, and I owe them one.

Sorry, folks.  I’ll be more careful next time.

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Restaurant Review Roulette: Gourmet Kingdom

March 17, 2010

First, I owe you an explanation of what happened with last week’s Roulette.  Quite simply, the News & Observer is short of editors, and they made a mistake by saying Greg Cox would be reviewing Angelina’s Kitchen.  Yes, Cox wrote a small piece about the restaurant, but it wasn’t the subject of his review.  Cox was very kind and actually called to explain the mix-up to me.  He didn’t place blame on the editors — I did — as this type of mistake has become fairly common.  The quality of the writing in the food sections is as good or better than ever, but the editing quality has dropped dramatically.

Now, onto this week’s competition, when Greg Cox reviews the new darling of the authentic Chinese afficionados, Gourmet Kingdom in Carrboro.  Originally, this was another indistinguishable Chinese buffet place, but over the last several months, apparently due to new ownership, a major transformation has occurred.  Gourmet Kingdom now focuses on authentic Sichuan, and it is apparently the darling of the foodie world, even hosting a Chowhound get-together.

Knowing that Greg Cox loves authentic ethnic joints, I suspect he’ll really like this one.  Although the atmosphere of Gourmet Kingdom may not be all that great, the quality of the food may push this place into 4-star realm.  That’s my bet, anyhow.

5 stars — 50 to 1

4.5  stars — 20 to 1

4 stars — 3 to 2

3.5 stars — 2 to 1

3 stars — 4 to 1

2.5 stars — 12 to 1

2 stars — 25 to 1

1 to 1.5 stars — 100 to 1

Have you been to Gourmet Kingdom?  If so, what are your thoughts?  What’s your bet on Greg Cox’s rating?

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Restaurant Review Roulette: Angelina’s Kitchen

March 10, 2010

No one should say that Greg Cox doesn’t seek out places in the “hinterlands” when he reviews restaurants for the News & Observer.  Last week he hit Mambo Italiano in Apex.  This week, he goes even more remote — all the way to Pittsboro! — with Angelina’s Kitchen.  Now I’ve heard some good things about this place.  It’s small, and it focuses on Greek food with an occasional southwestern dish thrown in.  But this place is adamant about sourcing its ingredients from local farms, and that includes beef and poultry.  Heck, they even rave about the peppers one nearby farmer grows.  The menu is limited, but there are always a handful of daily specials.

So, what’s Mr. Cox going to award to Angelina’s Kitchen?  This is another restaurant that I haven’t visited, but I’m guessing its locavore bent will gain it at least an additional half star.  So here are this week’s odds:

4.5 to 5 stars — 1,000 to 1

4 stars — 20 to 1

3.5 stars — 5 to 2

3 stars — 2 to 1

2.5 stars — 5 to 1

2 stars — 10 to 1

1 to 1.5 stars — 75 to 1

I might be a little late to post the results here, as I’ll be out of town, but I’ll do my best.  What do you think about Angelina’s Kitchen?  And how many of you have actually visited it?

8 Comments | Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: , , , , | Permalink
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Restaurant Review Roulette: Mambo Italiano

March 3, 2010

For the last two weeks, I actually had some clue of how many stars Greg Cox might give the restaurants he was reviewing.  I knew that 618 Bistro was abominable, and his “award” of 1 star to the place may expedite its demise.  Or cause them to turn it around.  I also had heard a lot of great things about Guglhupf, so 4 stars was not a big surprise.

This week’s entry?  A place in Apex known as Mambo Italiano.  An Italian, family style restaurant in Apex.  A place that strives to be just like you’d find in Little Italy in New York.  My god, have these people actually eaten in Little Italy?  That’s their objective, their dream, their aspiration?  Meh.

Anyhow, I’ve never been to Mambo Italiano.  Hell, I only go to Apex to see my friend, knife expert Chad Ward (he’s in “near Apex,” at that). So for me to give odds this week will be a complete crapshoot.  The online “reviews” are your typical jumble of nonsense, so I’m going to guess.  But then, isn’t that what Restaurant Review Roulette is all about?

So, here are the odds:

4.5 to 5 stars — 10,000 to 1

4 stars — 100 to 1

3.5 stars — 25 to 1

3 stars — 3 to 1

2.5 stars — 1 to 1

2 stars — 4 to 1

1 to 1.5 stars — 20 to 1

Realize that last week’s one star offering was extremely rare — more so than an award of 5 stars.  That’s because Cox traditionally wouldn’t even write about a bad place.  But with the cutbacks at the N&O, I suspect Cox no longer has a fat expense account, and he essentially is forced to write about any place he visits.  Even if it’s painfully bad.  I’m betting that Mambo Italiano isn’t that bad.

My uneducated, completely ignorant guess: 2.5 stars.

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March 5, 2010 Edit: Greg Cox awarded Mambo Italian 3 stars.  You readers pretty much nailed it.  It just might be worth a trip to Apex to give this place a try.

10 Comments | Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: , , , | Permalink
Posted by Varmint

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