Trying to Buy a Review

May 26, 2010

I’ve now received two emails to take the “Bonefish Grill Challenge,” where I’ll get a $25 gift certificate to Bonefish Grill and a $25 American Express gift card to use at any other restaurant.  I’m then supposed to write about both experiences in a head-to-head format.  Wow.  I’m not sure if this is a brilliant marketing device or an act of desperation.  It’s completely legitimate, as there are a number of other bloggers who have done this.  Here’s one.  At least they require the bloggers to disclose the consideration paid by Bonefish

I’ve never eaten at a Bonefish Grill, and after receiving this bit of enticement, I’m even less likely to give them a try.  I absolutely, positively won’t be bought.  Well, I won’t be bought for 50 bucks, that is.

Here’s a graphic from the email:


Restaurant Review Roulette: Restaurant Eden

May 26, 2010

After last week’s review of bu.ku, where I was quite confident of what Greg Cox was going to do, I return to unfamiliar territory of restaurants about which I know nothing.  This time, it’s Durham’s Restaurant Eden, which based on its name strives to be a gustatory paradise.  Restaurant Eden opened in the same location of the beloved, but insufficiently busy Starlu.  The teaser in today’s N&O says that Eden has some hits and misses — but then, that’s what happened in the Book of Genesis, too, right?  Alas, that teaser shows that Eden may not be a 5 star place that defines a garden of paradise.   Another thing that suggests the same is that 5 of the 9 entrees on the menu include “Garden Veggies.”  Now, we know that the Garden of Eden was filled with lots of great things to eat, and one that was a bit taboo, but let me just say that I suspect that even Adam and Even never called anything “veggies.”  That’s a term used by the serpent or lazy marketing folks.  But even worse is for a restaurant to use these same veggies time and time again — that’s not paradise, folks, that’s Applebee’s.  Just sayin’.   And I also want to know if they serve apples or any other forbidden fruit in this restaurant.  Is it clothing optional, or is this Eden after the fall from grace?  So many questions.

So, without further ado, here are this week’s odds:

5 stars — 39 to 1

4.5 stars – 22 to 1

4 stars — 9 to 1

3.5 stars — 3 to 1

3 stars — 5 to 2

2.5 stars —  4 to 1

2 stars — 9 to 1

1.5 stars — 23 to 1

1 star — 58 to 1

Have you dined at Restaurant Eden?  If so, how many stars would you give it?  More importantly, how many stars do you think Greg Cox will bestow upon it?  And let me know if there are any serpents lurking about.

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Edit, May 28, 2010 — Greg Cox gave Restaurant Eden 2.5 stars.  The review reads like the restaurant deserves more than that, as it focuses on somewhat misleading menu descriptions and a heavy hand with the balsamic reduction.  I suspect this is one review that was hurt by the paper’s space limitations.  Would love for Greg to post on his blog his thoughts on other dishes.


Scratch Bakeshop to Open Next Week

May 25, 2010

Phoebe Lawless, Durham’s baker extraordinaire, will be opening Scratch’s new bakeshop next week at 111 Orange Street in downtown Durham.  For those of you who do not regularly visit the Durham Farmer’s Market, Lawless is known for her fantastic pies, including chocolate sea salt, shaker lemon, and many savory varieties.  Of course, Phoebe’s donut muffins are, as my 9 year old puts it, “To die for.”  Those donut muffins were a huge hit at last fall’s Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium, and they sell out quickly each week at the Durahm market.

Construction of the new bakeshop has been ongoing for several months, and final inspections are scheduled for the first of next week.  The 1,400 square foot bakeshop will have a regularly rotating schedule of baked goods, including empanadas, flatbreads, and lots of pie.  Lawless sources nearly all her ingredients locally, and she is one of the leaders of the local Slow Food convivium.  The bakeshop will also be a great place for coffee, as Lawless invested in a La Marzocco espresso machine and will be using Counter Culture’s beans.  The hours of the bakeshop will be 7:30 to 4, Monday through Friday and Saturday from 9 to 3.

And for you farmer’s market faithful, no need to worry, as Phoebe will continue to have a booth on market days.

Time for a donut muffin.

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Scratch Seasonal Artisan Baking
111 Orange Street
Durham, NC 27701
919-956-5200
piefantasy.com


Restaurant Review Roulette: bu•ku

May 19, 2010

Sorry for missing last week’s review, but after being out of town, I just couldn’t bring myself to predict how many stars a Calabash-style seafood eatery was going to get.  This week is another story, however, as Greg Cox is reviewing Raleigh’s bu•ku, the restaurant with a bullet point in its name.  I’ve written about bu•ku, and many of you know I’m a big fan of bu•ku’s chef, William D’Auvray.  He’s one of the most creative chefs in the Triangle, and I considered the food at his last restaurant, Fins, to be nonpareil.

bu•ku is a different restaurant, however.  It’s not a quiet place, and that is intentional.  bu•ku is designed to be a place for crowds to get together, order a bunch of small plates of the so-called “street food” bu•ku offers, and have a good time.  Some critics argue that bu•ku does not serve genuine street food, that D’Auvray’s offerings are nothing like what they had on the streets of India, the Philippines, or Mexico.  My brilliant, intellectual response to those claims is, “No duh!”  Of course it’s not the same — you’re getting this food in a Raleigh office tower from a kitchen that could hardly be compared to anything found on the streets of Bangkok.  This is William D’Auvray’s interpretation of street food, and it’s really quite good.

Greg Cox also like’s D’Auvray’s cooking, as he perennially listed Fins as one of his top restaurants in the Triangle, naming it his restaurant of the year not long ago.  I also know Cox loves to write about cuisines from far-away places, and I’ve discovered several gems from his N&O reviews.  Do I think Cox will give bu•ku the same 5 stars that he gave Fins?  Absolutely not.  Do I think he will like it?  Yes, I do.  I would be stunned if he gives it anything less than 4 stars.  Adding another half star might be a stretch, particularly in light of the fact that bu•ku isn’t really trying to be that ultimate, fine-dining establishment that Fins was.  But who knows, Cox has given 4.5 stars to other places that are quite comparable to bu•ku.  This will be an interesting review, but I’m hedging my bets by listing co-favorites this week.

5 stars — 5 to 1

4.5 stars – 3 to 2

4 stars — 3 to 2

3.5 stars — 7 to 1

3 stars — 10 to 1

2.5 stars —  30 to 1

2 stars — 75 to 1

1.5 stars — 250 to 1

1 star — 500 to 1

How many stars do you think bu•ku will get, and what are your thoughts on this restaurant?

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(Edit May 21, 2010) – Congratulations to bu•ku, as Greg Cox awarded it 4.5 stars.  After having lunch there on Wednesday, those are well-deserved stars.  This is a place where you can get in and out for less than 10 bucks if you want, or you can have a big-time night.  And it will all taste great.


Why I Blog

May 18, 2010

Last night, I had the honor to eat at Herons where a handful of local chefs put together a great meal to support a super cause.  I was in attendance because I’m the chair-elect of the charity benefiting from the dinner, the Lucy Daniels Center.  Before the dinner I was invited back into the kitchen to talk to the chefs, all of whom I knew pretty well except for one.  As the dinner started, I was given the opportunity to talk about the Center to the guests, and then I sat down to enjoy the splendid food and wine.  Over the course of the evening, two or three folks introduced themselves to me, saying that they read my blog.  My initial reaction in those situations is typically, “Really?  Why?”  I’m always surprised to meet one of my readers, as I just don’t think about that side of the blogging equation.  And when I’m asked, “Why do you blog?” my answer is almost always the same: “For me.”

To me, there is no creation of human beings greater than food (other than other human beings, of course).  We must eat to survive, of course, but it’s far more complex than that.  Societies and cultures are defined in great part by food, by the rituals surrounding the dining table.  We celebrate with food and drink.  The most intimate way to welcome guests from abroad is to cook for them.  When I think of France or Italy or Morocco or India or Mexico, my first thoughts are about the food and cuisine of those nations.

I write about food because it is important to me and my family, and quite honestly, I want to keep a journal of my life with food.  I want to help preserve the memories of my 9 year old daughter’s passion for baking, or the time when my older daughter wanted me to cook a multi-course dinner for her birthday party.  I want to remember when my 10 year old son and I bellied up to the bar in DC or when my then 15 year old son went to Herons on a night I was working in the kitchen.  I also want to remember what I cooked a couple of weeks ago, or when I first tried a livermush sandwich.

I like to write about my friends, and that’s why you’ll rarely see me writing negative things in this blog.  Heck, any blog post here about restaurants is typically about a friend’s place, so why on earth would I ever write bad things about them.  I’m not a journalist, I’m an advocate for the local food community.

I rarely write about events that I know nothing about.  I get a handful of press releases each week about this event or the next.  I sometimes even get a very nicely written email about a particular event, but if I don’t know anyone involved, I typically write back explaining that I have chosen not to write about such events.  I do break from that rule now and then, but not very often.

I have also learned that writing about food does in fact give me some credibility in the food world and some access that I might not otherwise have.  I got to work in the kitchen at Herons and the Globe because of this blog, in part.  Some of my best friends are chefs and food writers, but I have learned that those friendships did not evolve because I blog.  It’s because food is nearly as important to me as it is to them.  Folks in the food industry love to “talk shop” more than any other industry I know.  We health care lawyers really don’t want to what we do or health care reform.  We want to talk about music or sports or, of course, food.  When I’m with a group of chefs and food writers, the only thing they talk about is food.  It’s not just their business, it’s their life.  And because I share that similar passion, they’re happy to talk to me about it to.

I do not blog for economic gain, that’s for sure.  You’ll note the lack of advertising here, as I’ve chosen not to commercialize VarmintBites, even though several offers came my way.  First of all, there’s hardly any money in it, unless you become a huge entity with multiple writers and hundreds of thousands of daily visitors.  Second, you have to write every day, several times a day, and you have to write well.  I have a blog with hundreds of daily visitors and on a busy week, I might have 3 posts, each of which I wrote over a course of 10 minutes, with no re-writes or much proof-reading.  And I can also go two weeks with only one post.  It’s my party and I can write when I want to .

In the end, I write for my memories, for my passion, and yes, for my ego.  I am flattered when someone does tell me they read the blog.  I have my insecurities, too, wondering whether anyone really cares.  It sort of reminds me of some of my chef friends, when I tell them how much I loved a particular dish, and they respond, “Really?  You’re just not saying that?”  It’s pretty funny, those folks who work to feed us.  They’re not rock stars or ego-driven maniacs.  They’re just plain folks, like you and me, who happen to love food and have made it their career.  I don’t have the skills or the stamina to do what they do.  But I’m glad I get to be in their world from time to time.


Off to DC

May 10, 2010

I’m off to DC for a couple of days to see if I can’t learn a bit more about health care reform.  However, I won’t totally ignore my food obligations.  On Tuesday night I’ll be having some great cocktails at Johnny’s Half Shell and then dinner at Rasika afterwards, and I’ll be sure to post something about it on Twitter.  If you’re looking for this week’s Restaurant Review Roulette, you’ll have to wait until I return on Thursday.


Restaurant Review Roulette: Sitar Indian Cuisine

May 5, 2010

Boy, Greg Cox is making it tough on me.  This week’s review is of Durham’s Sitar Indian Cuisine (formerly known as Sitar India Palace, as evidenced by its web address).  This is not a new restaurant, as Cox previously reviewed it in 1998.  If you look up that old review on Triangle.com, it appears that Sitar only received one star.  I question that rating, simply because that mini-review named Sitar as the best Indian restaurant in the Triangle at that time.

What is new about Sitar appears to be its location.  My research on Chowhound and other places indicate that Sitar has moved to a bigger and nicer location, which, I suspect, helped lead to this updated review.

Of all the cuisines in the Triangle, I might be least knowledgeable with Indian food.  I know, I know, there’s so many different variations of Indian food, where even slight changes in location result in major changes of cuisine.  But I don’t know it that well.  Moreover, I’ve never been to Sitar.  Online discussions seem to place it in the fair to good category, and it’s pretty clear that the community no longer believes Sitar to be the best Indian in the area.

I suspect this is a clear case of a 3 star review.

So here are this week’s odds:

5 stars — 123,456,789 to 1

4.5 stars – 1,000 to 1

4 stars — 15 to 1

3.5 stars — 5 to 1

3 stars — 3 to 2

2.5 stars —  3 to 1

2 stars — 4 to 1

1.5 stars — 12 to 1

1 star — 25 to 1

And what do you think of Sitar?  How many stars would you give it?  How many stars do you think Greg Cox will give Sitar?

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(Edit — May 7, 2010) Greg Cox gave Sitar 3.5 stars.  Hell, he even recommended the buffet!


Andrea Weigl Finalist for AFJ Awards — Twice!

May 5, 2010

I’ve known Andrea Weigl since she started writing about food for the News & Observer several years ago.  She had covered death penalty issues for several years before then, and I was surprised that the N&O would let a person so green in culinary issues (and someone who really knew almost no one in the industry) take over this position.  I quickly realized that Weigl was not only a great writer with a passion for food, but she had more initiative in her left pinkie than most others have in their entire bodies.  She is fearless, never hesitating to ask questions or meet people.  She immersed herself in the business, even going to culinary school, just so she could be a better food writer.  Her piece on the closing of Durham’s Starlu restaurant was a masterful story, garnering a lot of acclaim.

Weigl has continued to write fantastic stories for the N&O, even as the paper, and the print news industry as a whole, is struggling to survive.  Writers and editors have left the N&O, many of whom are friends of Weigl.  Budget cuts have forced Weigl to share a greater portion of the cost of reporting.  It’s a tough world, yet Weigl has found a way to continue to put out a great product.  One benefit of the cut-backs is that Weigl started to work more closely with the N&O’s sister publication, The Charlotte Observer, and its food editor, Kathleen Purvis.  Purvis is one of the best food writers in the country, and although the two writers knew each other, they didn’t necessarily work together all that frequently.

Well, Weigl, Purvis and the N&O have just won several awards in the prestigious Association of Food Journalists Awards.  The awards recognize excellence in reporting and writing in all media, newspaper food section design and content, food illustration and food photography.  The AFJ announced the three finalists in several categories, and Weigl is a finalist in two — Best Newspaper Food Coverage for a Paper with a Circulation of 150,000 or Less and Best Newspaper Food Feature for a Paper with a Circulation of 200,000 or Less.  To be a finalist in one category is a noteworthy achievement.  To be a double finalist in the same year just means you’re a food writing rock star.  The placing of each finalist (i.e., first, second, third) will be announced in September at the AFJ’s annual conference, but these folks are already winners.  And what’s even more fun about this is that Kathleen Purvis is one of the other nominees in the Food Feature category.  I believe both of those stories — Weigl’s “When Chefs Dine” and Purvis’ “Roux the Day” — appeared in the N&O, as the budget cuts have led to a sharing of the talents of these writers in both newspapers.  The industry’s loss is our gain.

I’ve written about how lucky we are to have such a good food writer in our area, and this recognition by the AFJ only substantiates that claim.  Weigl made a list last year about the top 50 food items/icons in the Triangle.  There was a huge omission on that list — Andrea Weigl herself.  Congratulations to you and Kathi!

(Image of Weigl courtesy of the N&O)


Helios to Become a “Real Café”

May 4, 2010

I got to know Chef Rob Bland back when he was opening Coquette, Urban Food Group’s French brasserie in North Hills.  I learned that Chef Bland was passionate about his food — almost to a fault, occasionally losing sight of the fact that sometimes the customer may not always be right, but the customer is always paying.  His passion also created tension in the kitchen, too, but that’s not to be unexpected for a new, high volume restaurant with perfectionist owners.  But the thing is, Bland could flat out cook, and he was completely committed to his craft.  Stocks were made from scratch, ingredients were top notch, and sauces were classics.

Bland left Coquette a few months ago, and I was wondering what he was doing.  Turns out he decided to help out at Cafe Helios, which I thought was a bit odd, as it was my impression that Helios was just a coffee shop with some sandwiches.  Well, things are about to change, as Helios is getting its own commercial range and proper ventilation, and Bland is rolling out a full menu of new offerings — including real dinner items.  The spring menu is filled with very reasonably priced small plate offerings, and the flavor combinations look quite impressive, such as an English pea ragout with bacon, white wine, oregano and mint or piquillo peppers stuffed with a salt cod and potato puree.

Bland has also started doing First Friday barbecues outside of Helios, which is going to be a hit over the summer.  Unfortunately, with the change in the kitchen, there’s no barbecue this week, so we’ll have to wait until June.  But we won’t have to wait for the new menu, which should go live some time next week.

Spring Menu


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