July 7, 2010
Greg Cox reviews Cameron Village’s new Southwestern/Mexican joint, Cantina 18, in this Friday’s News & Observer. Cantina 18 is the creation of Jason Smith, the chef of 18 Seaboard, and it has received mixed reviews from my friends and colleagues. Those who are well-versed in authentic Mexican food don’t care for it all that much, whereas folks who enjoy a burrito from Moe’s recognize that this is a step up from that chain-restaurant fare. Some people have complained about the prices (particularly when compared to a taqueria), but this is more uspscale, and the tacos come with rice, beans and slaw. I’ve yet to eat there, simply because the place had so many initial problems that needed to be resolved. I’m now ready to give it a try, and I suspect I’ll like it just fine.
But that’s not all that relevant or important, as what we really are concerned with is how many stars Greg Cox will give the place. I suspect he’ll like the fact that this is not a typical cookie-cutter Mexican restaurant, that Jason Smith took some chances. I think he’ll like the fact that it’s in Cameron Village, a place that needs some originality with its restaurants. I think he’ll like the food, too. But I don’t think he’ll love it. To me, this is a 3.5 star place all the way. We shall see.
Here are the odds:
5 stars — 99 to 1
4.5 stars – 13 to 1
4 stars — 3 to 1
3.5 stars — 5 to 3
3 stars — 4 to 1
2.5 stars — 7 to 1
2 stars — 11 to 1
1.5 stars — 21 to 1
1 star — 33 to 1
I’m hedging my bets here intentionally. This is a place where Greg Cox could have had a great experience, or a lousy one. How many stars do you think it deserves?
*********************
Edit, July 9, 2010 — It’s a 3 star review for Cantina 18, with Greg Cox saying there’s been a marked improvement over the preceding visit each of the three times he’s visited.
2 Comments | 
chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: 18 Seaboard, Cameron Village, Cantina 18, Greg Cox, Jason Smith, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette | 
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Posted by Varmint
May 25, 2010
Phoebe Lawless, Durham’s baker extraordinaire, will be opening Scratch’s new bakeshop next week at 111 Orange Street in downtown Durham. For those of you who do not regularly visit the Durham Farmer’s Market, Lawless is known for her fantastic pies, including chocolate sea salt, shaker lemon, and many savory varieties. Of course, Phoebe’s donut muffins are, as my 9 year old puts it, “To die for.” Those donut muffins were a huge hit at last fall’s Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium, and they sell out quickly each week at the Durahm market.
Construction of the new bakeshop has been ongoing for several months, and final inspections are scheduled for the first of next week. The 1,400 square foot bakeshop will have a regularly rotating schedule of baked goods, including empanadas, flatbreads, and lots of pie. Lawless sources nearly all her ingredients locally, and she is one of the leaders of the local Slow Food convivium. The bakeshop will also be a great place for coffee, as Lawless invested in a La Marzocco espresso machine and will be using Counter Culture’s beans. The hours of the bakeshop will be 7:30 to 4, Monday through Friday and Saturday from 9 to 3.
And for you farmer’s market faithful, no need to worry, as Phoebe will continue to have a booth on market days.
Time for a donut muffin.
************
Scratch Seasonal Artisan Baking
111 Orange Street
Durham, NC 27701
919-956-5200
piefantasy.com
2 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, chefs, Durham, General, Restaurants | Tagged: Bakers, Durham Farmer's Market, Phoebe Lawless, Scratch, Scratch Baking, Scratch Seasonal Artisan Baking | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
May 19, 2010
Sorry for missing last week’s review, but after being out of town, I just couldn’t bring myself to predict how many stars a Calabash-style seafood eatery was going to get. This week is another story, however, as Greg Cox is reviewing Raleigh’s bu•ku, the restaurant with a bullet point in its name. I’ve written about bu•ku, and many of you know I’m a big fan of bu•ku’s chef, William D’Auvray. He’s one of the most creative chefs in the Triangle, and I considered the food at his last restaurant, Fins, to be nonpareil.
bu•ku is a different restaurant, however. It’s not a quiet place, and that is intentional. bu•ku is designed to be a place for crowds to get together, order a bunch of small plates of the so-called “street food” bu•ku offers, and have a good time. Some critics argue that bu•ku does not serve genuine street food, that D’Auvray’s offerings are nothing like what they had on the streets of India, the Philippines, or Mexico. My brilliant, intellectual response to those claims is, “No duh!” Of course it’s not the same — you’re getting this food in a Raleigh office tower from a kitchen that could hardly be compared to anything found on the streets of Bangkok. This is William D’Auvray’s interpretation of street food, and it’s really quite good.
Greg Cox also like’s D’Auvray’s cooking, as he perennially listed Fins as one of his top restaurants in the Triangle, naming it his restaurant of the year not long ago. I also know Cox loves to write about cuisines from far-away places, and I’ve discovered several gems from his N&O reviews. Do I think Cox will give bu•ku the same 5 stars that he gave Fins? Absolutely not. Do I think he will like it? Yes, I do. I would be stunned if he gives it anything less than 4 stars. Adding another half star might be a stretch, particularly in light of the fact that bu•ku isn’t really trying to be that ultimate, fine-dining establishment that Fins was. But who knows, Cox has given 4.5 stars to other places that are quite comparable to bu•ku. This will be an interesting review, but I’m hedging my bets by listing co-favorites this week.
5 stars — 5 to 1
4.5 stars – 3 to 2
4 stars — 3 to 2
3.5 stars — 7 to 1
3 stars — 10 to 1
2.5 stars — 30 to 1
2 stars — 75 to 1
1.5 stars — 250 to 1
1 star — 500 to 1
How many stars do you think bu•ku will get, and what are your thoughts on this restaurant?
*************************
(Edit May 21, 2010) – Congratulations to bu•ku, as Greg Cox awarded it 4.5 stars. After having lunch there on Wednesday, those are well-deserved stars. This is a place where you can get in and out for less than 10 bucks if you want, or you can have a big-time night. And it will all taste great.
3 Comments | chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: bu•ku, buku, Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette, William D'Auvray | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
May 4, 2010
I got to know Chef Rob Bland back when he was opening Coquette, Urban Food Group’s French brasserie in North Hills. I learned that Chef Bland was passionate about his food — almost to a fault, occasionally losing sight of the fact that sometimes the customer may not always be right, but the customer is always paying. His passion also created tension in the kitchen, too, but that’s not to be unexpected for a new, high volume restaurant with perfectionist owners. But the thing is, Bland could flat out cook, and he was completely committed to his craft. Stocks were made from scratch, ingredients were top notch, and sauces were classics.
Bland left Coquette a few months ago, and I was wondering what he was doing. Turns out he decided to help out at Cafe Helios, which I thought was a bit odd, as it was my impression that Helios was just a coffee shop with some sandwiches. Well, things are about to change, as Helios is getting its own commercial range and proper ventilation, and Bland is rolling out a full menu of new offerings — including real dinner items. The spring menu is filled with very reasonably priced small plate offerings, and the flavor combinations look quite impressive, such as an English pea ragout with bacon, white wine, oregano and mint or piquillo peppers stuffed with a salt cod and potato puree.
Bland has also started doing First Friday barbecues outside of Helios, which is going to be a hit over the summer. Unfortunately, with the change in the kitchen, there’s no barbecue this week, so we’ll have to wait until June. But we won’t have to wait for the new menu, which should go live some time next week.
Spring Menu
5 Comments | chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: Cafe Helios, Glenwood South, Raleigh, Restaurants, Rob Bland | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
March 24, 2010
Whenever restaurants and chefs give back to the community, by participating in fundraisers, I like to toot their horns. When it’s my friends who are doing this, I really let the world (well, the world that is the Triangle) know. Here are two great examples.
Ashley Christensen of Poole’s Diner is very passionate about giving back to the community. I’ve asked her to donate her time for fundraisers, and she’s always come through. She’s particularly devoted to the Frankie Lemmon School and Foundation, but this time around, she’s not cooking for a cause, she’s going to sit her butt on a fitness cycle and spin away, trying to raise TEN THOUSAND DOLLARS to support the building of a children’s playground. She’s less than a thousand dollars from her goal, so please go to this site and make a donation.
Another good friend is Parker Kennedy, the owner of downtown Raleigh’s Caffe Luna. I first met Parker in the weeks before he first opened, over 10 years ago. Caffe Luna was opening in a location that was cursed, many said, as multiple restaurants opened and quickly closed in that spot. Caffe Luna is now one of the most successful restaurants in Raleigh, and many restaurants subsequently opened in the area, and thrived. I think Caffe Luna’s success laid the ground work for many of these other places.
What you may not know about Caffe Luna is that they also give back to the community. They have raised untold thousands of dollars for Shaw University. They’re big supporters of the Raleigh Arts community. And now they’re doing a big fundraiser for the people of Haiti. Next Tuesday, March 30th, Caffe Luna will feed all comers at Marbles Kids Museum in downtown Raleigh from 6 to 8 PM. Dinner includes pasta, salad, wine, beer, tea and dessert. Caffe Luna is donating 100% of the food and beverages and is not keeping one penny. Marbles is donating the space. The cost is $30 for adults and $10 for kids 12 and under. All proceeds will go to the Hope for Haiti Foundation, a non-profit based in Cary. Tickets can be purchased online at http://www.firstgiving.com/benefittosupporthaitifamilies. Heck, even Firstgiving isn’t taking a cut from this. Right now, they haven’t sold many tickets, and maybe that’s because people think that Haiti has raised plenty of money, but that’s not the case. They need help, and this is an easy way to provide it.
So let’s help these establishments, when they’re giving back to the community. We’re the beneficiaries of their food, and we need to help them when they’re doing the right thing.
2 Comments | chefs, Events, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: Ashley Christensen, Caffe Luna, Frankie Lemmon School, Haiti, Parker Kennedy, Philanthropy, Poole's Downtown Diner, Raleigh | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
February 18, 2010
Lots of local chefs and restaurants are represented in the 2010 Beard Award semi-finalists that were announced today, including Crook’s Corner, Magnolia Grill, Andrea Reusing, Ashley Christensen, Bill Smith and Scott Howell. The finalists in each category will be announced on March 22.
The full list of semi-finalists are after the break. Thanks to Andrea Weigl of the N&O for the info!
Read the rest of this entry »
3 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, chefs, General | Tagged: Andrea Reusing, Ashley Christensen, Bill Smith, Crooks Corner, James Beard Awards, Magnolia Grill, Scott Howell | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
February 3, 2010
bu•ku, the new “global street food” concept of Chef William D’Auvray, will open today. The menu is an eclectic assortment of exotic soups, breads, and other street foods, focusing primarily on Asia, but with a great mix of other regions including Eastern Europe (pierogi), South America (empanada), and Mexico (cochinita). Everything is made in-house, including the fantastic cha siu bao, the steamed barbecued pork buns from China, and the paneer, served with kale, sweet onion and cardamom. Indian chapati and papadum are also made fresh, in house.
Fortunately, for those who were fans of Fins, you can still get a lot of D’Auvray’s signature dishes, including his Indonesian style snapper and the best sashimi in town.
The restaurant’s decor has not changed. It’s the same big space, with some additional prints added. This type of more casual dining, however, should transform the restaurant. Whereas Fins was a place you went to on a special occasion, bu•ku will be a place for a group to get together for drinks and lots of great snacks. It’s a festive place, with flavors from across the world. And if you want that special meal, you can still get it at bu•ku. We certainly know that with William D’Auvray heading up the kitchen, the food will be excellent.
bu•ku will only be open for dinner this week, but I suspect lunch service will begin next week.
bu•ku
110 East Davie Street
Raleigh, NC 27601
919-834-6963
http://bukuraleigh.com/
3 Comments | chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: bu•ku, buku, Fins, Raleigh, William D'Auvray | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
January 21, 2010
This Sunday and Monday, a number of Triangle-based restaurants will be donating 10% of their proceeds to two charities for the relief efforts in Haiti. This effort was initiated on Facebook by local chefs and foodies, and as of the time of this post, there are 20 restaurants participating. Here’s the list of confirmed restaurants:
SUNDAY, JANUARY 24
Watt’s Grocery (Durham)
Bogart’s American Grill (Raleigh)
Crook’s Corner (Evening Service Only – Chapel Hill)
Cup A Joe (Chapel Hill)
HI5 (Raleigh)
Joe Van Gogh (Durham)
Michael Dean’s Seafood Grill (Raleigh)
Milltown (Carrboro)
Panzanella (Carrboro)
Red Room Tapas Lounge (Raleigh)
Saladelia Cafe (Durham)
Saxapahaw General Store (Saxapahaw)
Southern Rail (Carrboro)
The Mash House (Fayetteville)
Twisted Fork (Raleigh)
West End Wine Bar (Durham)
MONDAY, JANUARY 25
ACME Food and Beverage Co. (Carrboro)
Cup A Joe (Chapel Hill)
Cypress On The Hill (Chapel Hill)
Foster’s Market (Durham/Chapel Hill)
GlassHalFull (Carrboro)
Globe Restaurant (Raleigh)
Joe Van Gogh (Durham)
Lantern (Chapel Hill)
Mad Hatter’s Bakeshop and Cafe (Durham)
Neal’s Deli (Carrboro)
Parker and Otis (Durham)
Pop’s (Durham)
Rockwood Filling Station (Durham)
Ruckus Pizza Pasta and Spirits (Cary)
Rue Cler (Durham)
Sandwhich (Chapel Hill)
Six Plates Wine Bar (Durham)
Toast (Durham)
Tyler’s Restaurant and Tap Room (Carborro, Durham and Apex)
West End Wine Bar (Chapel Hill)
Zely and Ritz (Raleigh)
More information on this fantastic effort can be found on this Facebook page or this new blog that’s been started. The blog says that 10% of profits will be donated to the charities, but that is a misprint. It is 10% of sales. So go to brunch on Sunday and then to dinner on Monday. And spread the word!
(Edited to reflect changes to participating restaurants at 8:15 AM, 1/23/10)
9 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, Cary, Chapel Hill, chefs, Durham, Events, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: Charity, Dine Out for Haiti, Dining, Haiti, Restaurants, Triangle | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
January 15, 2010
News & Observer restaurant critic, Greg Cox, has named his top 25 restaurants in the Triangle, with Herons named as his restaurant of the year. There are a few new additions to his list, including Herons’ going from a no-show to the top performer. Others new to the list include Poole’s Downtown Diner, the Fearrington House, Second Empire, and Watts Grocery. Interestingly, the online version of this article only has 24 restaurants, unlike the print version, which included Fins on this year’s list. This is because this list went to press before the announcement was made that Fins is closed as it transforms to bu•ku.
Last year Cox included a number of value-type restaurants in his list, such as Allen & Son and China Palace, but no such cheap eats place remains on this year’s list. Cox has a completely separate list of top “Bargains.” Other restaurants that are no longer on the Top 25 are Bin 54, Dos Taquitos Centros, Enoteca Vin (closed).
This is a solid list and serves as a guide to the best of the best in the Triangle. One can argue about a restaurant here or there, but in the end, Cox does a super job helping his readers find the best places to eat.
For a geographic breakdown, of the top 24 restaurants, 10 are in Raleigh, 4 are in Chapel Hill, 6 are in Durham, 2 in Cary, 1 in Pittsboro and 1 in Hillsborough. Raleigh only has one of the “Best Bargains,” interestingly enough.
Greg Cox’s Top 24 Restaurants of the Triangle — 2010 Edition
Herons (Restaurant of the Year)
18 Seaboard
Bloomsbury Bistro
Bonne Soirée
Elaine’s on Franklin
Fairview
Fearrington House
Four Square
Frazier’s
Il Palio
J. Betski’s
Lantern
Magnolia Grill
Margaux’s
Maximillians
Nana’s
Panciuto
Poole’s Downtown Diner
Saint Jacques
Second Empire
Vin Rouge
Vivace
Watts Grocery
Zely & Ritz
Top Newcomers of the Year
Busy Bee Cafe
Chef & the Farmer
Coquette
Cypress on the Hill
Dos Perros
Gravy
Queen of Sheba
Revolution
Sitti
Super Wok
Top Bargains
Allen & Son
China Palace
Neal’s Deli
Neomonde
Rockwood Filling Station
Sandwhich
Skipper’s Fish Fry & Market
Taqueria La Vaquita
Toast
Udupi Café
9 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, chefs, Restaurants | Tagged: Greg Cox, News & Observer, restaurant reviews, Top Restaurants in the Triangle | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
January 13, 2010
Chef William D’Auvray’s fantastic downtown restaurant, Fins, is no more and will soon reopen under the name bu•ku. With its name coming from the mispronunciation of the French word, beaucoup, the restaurant will continue D’Auvray’s focus on Asian-influenced food, but will emphasize a “global street food” concept. Small plates will be the norm at bu•ku in a manner “inspired by the pushcarts of street vendors.” Fortunately, the restaurant will also focus on the lunch crowd. bu•ku will have a dedicated happy hour along with a strong craft beer and artisanal cocktail program.
D’Auvray has always been one of my favorite chefs in the Triangle, but Fins struggled in its large downtown location. With this new concept, I’m hopeful that more folks will discover this amazing chef. More details to come after I get a chance to talk to Chef D’Auvray.
Edit: Interestingly, D’Auvray intends at some point to have actual street carts downtown and to offer a dim sum brunch. Now that’s very cool. The web address is www.bukuraleigh.com.
15 Comments | chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: bu-ku, bu•ku, buku, Fins, Raleigh, William D'Auvray | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
November 16, 2009
Ashley Christensen, Bill Smith, and Smoked Chicken Wings
I’m sipping a cold beer on a gorgeous Sunday afternoon, lazing about on a screened-in porch in rural Mississippi. The conversation goes from football to Brazilian forestry camps and then to food. Ah, the conversation always gets back to food, and that’s because I’m surrounded by chefs, who I’ve learned, love to “talk shop” more than just about any other professional I know. These chefs include three winners of the prestigious James Beard Award, one who was recently nominated, and another who will likely win in the next few years. Chefs love to talk about food, and so do I, so I feel right at home on this early November day. Read the rest of this entry »
4 Comments | chefs, Events, Food writing, General, sfa, Southern food, Southern Food Culture | Tagged: Ann Cashion, Ashley Christensen, Ben Barker, Bill Smith, Brett Anderson, City Grocery, Crooks Corner, Fullsteam Brewery, Holy Smoke, John Currence, Karen Barker, Leslie Kelly, Lynn Hewlitt, Magnolia Grill, Phoebe Lawless, Poole's Diner, Sean Wilson, Southern Foodways Alliance, Taylor Grocery | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
November 11, 2009
If you’ve been to Raleigh’s Busy Bee Cafe, you’ll find a fairly typical menu of sandwiches and salads. Small plates and entrees. They’re all good, and the bar is certainly well-stocked, but once a month, the kitchen — or rather, Chef Jeremy Clayman — really lets its hair down. These beer dinners are when Clayman gets to experiment a bit. Show his wild — or molecular gastronomy — side.
You may remember Clayman from his stint at The Mint, just a stone’s throw away from the Busy Bee. Things didn’t work out so great between Clayman and the Mint owners, so he found another opportunity that on its face seems quite different from the fanciful food he was putting out at The Mint. This was simple food, simply presented, in a restaurant where the bar probably is the most important feature of the space. Was this a step down for Clayman? Would he forget his wild child side?
Give me a frickin’ break.
About a month ago, I had the wonderful pleasure of experiencing one of these dinners, featuring special beers from Brooklyn Brewery, all in large bottle formats, a couple of which are not generally available to the public. The beers were fantastic, but the food really blew us away. Here, Clayman got to use his agar and his alginate. His lecithin and isomalt. But more importantly, he got to experiment with flavors and textures in a way that the general public around here hasn’t fully embraced. Except for once a month at the Busy Bee.
The dinner started out slowly, with fairly tasteless shrimp served with a muscadine gel, but from there, thinks really took off. Monkfish was juicy and tender, served with elements of tarragon and mint, all paired with sweet potato. Veal flank had an interesting accompaniment of eggplant, banana and avocado. With the Sorachi Ace, a beer made with Japanese hops, Clayman served a simple salad of arugula and raw kampachi. Local lamb was perfect with maitake mushrooms, bacon and butternut squash. And concluding the meal with a beet cake was brilliant.
I did not take notes, so my memory of some of the details of the meal has faded a bit, nor did I shoot any pictures, which is a damn shame, as the plating of these dishes were drop-dead gorgeous. Sometimes, this type of cooking can get too wacked out, but the only mis-fire was due to a lack of flavor with the shrimp, rather than flavor combinations being off. At $50 a person (including the beer pairings), plus tax and tip, this is one of the best deals in town.
To learn more about these fantastic dinners, be sure to subscribe to the Busy Bee’s newsletter and follow them on Twitter. They sell out quickly, for obvious reasons. And hopefully, Jeremy Clayman will be able to spread his wings a little more frequently than once a month.
Leave a Comment » | chefs, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: Beer, Beer Dinner, Brooklyn Brewery, Busy Bee Cafe, Jeremy Clayman, Molecular Gastronomy, Raleigh | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
November 2, 2009
(Note: This is the third and final part of a series describing my time spent working in the Herons’ kitchen. Part 1 can be found here, and Part 2 is here.)
I knew that the chefs at Herons had taken it easy on me on the first day, giving me plenty to do, but simultaneously allowing me to see what goes on and to taste dishes as they were being put together. I also knew that my second day might be a little different, as it was a big day – the biggest day for Herons since Chef Scott Crawford took over. The Umstead Hotel and Spa was hosting a group of powerful CEOs from across the nation for a few days – we’re talking Fortune 100 companies. I joked that if someone had dropped a bomb on the hotel that day, the US economy would be crippled. No one thought that was funny, of course, as they knew that 35 of these heavy hitters would come into the dining room at one time and our job was to feed them as quickly as possible.
Even though the menu was going to be limited for these guests, they could order whatever they wanted if they truly chose to do so. Herons is all about taking care of the customer, even when the customer is wrong. Yes, the customer can be wrong, but the customer gets what he or she wants. Read the rest of this entry »
10 Comments | Cary, chefs, General, Restaurants | Tagged: Herons Restaurant, Scott Crawford, Steven Greene, Umstead Hotel and Spa | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
October 26, 2009
618 Bistro, a Mediterranean-influenced restaurant, should be open by mid-week at Raleigh’s Marketplace at Lake Boone, according to its manager and operating partner, Carolyn Ghezzi. Chef Alex Azzam previously ran the kitchen at Ciao! Osteria in Apex, but his prior focus on Italian food is not what 618 Bistro is all about: the cuisine here is very broad, including Thai, Middle Eastern, and Italian influences. The lunch menu features salads, panini and a handful of other items.
The website is live, the prices are reasonable, the staff is excited, and they even have a nice outdoor dining area, which is great this time of the year.
But most importantly, this place is next door to my office, so it gives me another place to walk to for lunch. It is all about me, right?
2 Comments | chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: 618 Bistro, Alex Azzam, Marketpace at Lake Boone | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
October 20, 2009
(Note — This is the second of several parts regarding my two days spent in the Herons’ kitchen.)
Chef Steven Greene and I walked out to the front of the house to address the waitstaff, letting them know what tonight’s amuse bouche was and to inform them that we were not out of any items on the menu. They looked at me, the new guy, trying to figure out who I was. Later on, one of the waiters asked me if I were the new sous chef. I had to laugh after informing him that I was just hanging around for a couple of days.
Tonight’s dinner would not be particularly busy, with maybe only 35 or 40 customers. Chef Greene and I made a sample bouche, and he had me taste it. ”Too much salt,” I responded, as the 5 or 6 grains of sea salt overpowered the scallop and yuzu mignonette. We determined that two grains was the perfect amount, and this small bite of shellfish, apple, radish and citrus was a flavor explosion. The guests would like this one. Read the rest of this entry »
5 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, Cary, chefs, General, Restaurants | Tagged: Herons, Scott Crawford, Steven Greene, Umstead Hotel | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
October 18, 2009
(Note — This is the first of several parts regarding my two days spent in the Herons’ kitchen.)
DAY 1 — PREP WORK
It was a week before I had planned on spending two days working in the kitchen of Herons, the ultra-swank restaurant in the deluxe Umstead Hotel & Spa in Cary. I had worked in a small restaurant the month before, but I knew this experience would be different. A lot different. I had asked Chef Scott Crawford what I needed to wear and bring, and I got this email response:
We are very much looking forward to seeing you next week. We are very busy next week, so you will see some action. You can arrive any time around 2:00 or shortly after and I will meet you in the lobby. If you give me your jacket size I will have one ready for you. I recommend you wear a white t-shirt under the chef jacket. Black pants are appropriate. I will provide you with an apron. You can bring a knife kit. We will have you doing a rotation through the stations so you get an overall understanding of how we organize. On some of those stations you will need some knife skills (I hope you’ve been practicing).
Crap. I don’t have any black chef pants, so I was wondering if I could get away with just some everyday, black cotton chinos. And what about the shoes? I knew this was a formal kitchen, so I needed to play the role properly. So I went and bought me a pair of black chef pants and ordered some black chef shoes. Heck they were on sale, so better to be safe than sorry. Read the rest of this entry »
6 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, Cary, chefs, Cooking, General, Restaurants | Tagged: chefs, Devereaux's, Herons, Scott Crawford, Steven Greene, The Umstead | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
October 11, 2009
I’ll be back in action this week, when I work a couple of shifts at Herons, the fantastic restaurant in Cary’s posh Umstead Hotel. I’ll be in the Herons’ kitchen on Tuesday and Wednesday from 2 to 11 PM, and I suspect this will be different than my last go-around at Raleigh’s Globe Restaurant. At Globe, I essentially just stepped in and did whatever was needed. They gave me a bib and then just started having me prepare for an unexpectedly busy dinner service. There wasn’t much organization, just a lot of craziness.
At Herons, I’ll have a training matrix. What the hell is a training matrix? I had to Google it, and I suspect that what it means is that Chef Scott Crawford is focused on making sure that I learn something out of this while not completely fucking up his dinner service. I’ll have a chef’s jacket. I have to wear black pants and have been told to bring my knife kit. I’ve been told that my knife skills will be tested. I can envision it now: “You call that a goddamn brunoise? Throw that crap away and do it again!”
Actually, that’s now how Crawford leads, and so I suspect that I’ll get treated better than that. But I’ll still probably be asked to do it again.
I know Herons is a little more expensive than Globe, but this is a completely different dining experience. Come on out and give the place a try on Tuesday or Wednesday. Scott Crawford won’t let me screw things up that badly.
5 Comments | Cary, chefs, General, Restaurants | Tagged: chefs, Herons, Scott Crawford, The Umstead | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
October 5, 2009
Poole’s Downtown Diner is hosting a special fundraiser for a special organization, SAFEchild, on Sunday, October 18th from 6 to 9 PM. Y’all know plenty about Poole’s and chef Ashley Christensen, how she’s been featured in the national press, how she’s been invited to cook with the top chefs in the country — with an invitation to cook at the posh Blackberry Farm for the Southern Foodways Alliance’s “Taste of the South” in January. I write about Ashley a lot because she’s a fantastic cook, a better person, and a dear friend.
And now she’s supporting one of my favorite organizations in the Triangle: SAFEchild.
Never heard of them? Well, you should. SAFEchild is Wake County’s only non-profit private agency working to prevent child abuse. They offer nearly a dozen different programs, focusing on everything from helping new parents deal with the sudden changes in their lives to working with men who suffered abuse and are now struggling to fight the urge to act out violently against their own children. The frustration of parents’ struggles often is manifested in violence against children, and with so many families hurting economically in these trying times, the children suffer even more.
SAFEchild is a voice for those children, and this is an opportunity to combine your love for food with a contribution to a good cause.
So think about what you’re doing on the 18th, and if you’re free, consider heading to Poole’s, where you’ll have some amazing food and wine. There’s a minimum donation of $150 per person, but that includes all the food you can eat, plus wine. While you’re there, you also might learn a lot about SAFEchild and the wonderful things they’re doing for our community. And if you do have plans, please consider making a donation. Every little bit helps.
Click here for more information on the SAFEchild dinner at Poole’s Diner.
1 Comment | chefs, Events, General, Raleigh | Tagged: Ashley Christensen, Poole's Diner, SAFEchild | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
September 25, 2009
We’ve all participated in food drives where you donate canned goods or other shelf-stable items to go to a food bank. It’s a great gesture, and I’m sure that lots of people get fed that way, but these are, by there very nature, processed foods.
I’ve never really seen a food drive involving fresh food, until now.
The Carrboro Farmers’ Market is holding the “FoodShare Challenge” tomorrow, September 26, from 8 AM until noon, where patrons of the market are encouraged to donate an extra bag of fresh food to feed the hungry. The Farmers’ Market has always been active in helping with hunger causes, donating over 7,500 pounds this summer, but on Saturday, the goal is for customers to donate over 1,000 pounds in a single day.
Andrea Reusing of Chapel Hill’s Lantern Restaurant, has provided generous support to this cause, as have a number of local organizations and businesses.
For more information on the FoodShare Program call or email Margaret Gifford at 919.967.6464 or mgw@well.com, or Sarah Blacklin at 919.280.3326 or info@carrborofarmersmarket.com.
2 Comments | Chapel Hill, chefs, Restaurants | Tagged: Andrea Reusing, Carrboro Farmers' Market, Feed the Hungry, Hunger, Lantern | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
September 21, 2009
I’ve always preferred to host a dinner party than to go to one. My birthday is this Saturday, and rather than hitting the town, I’m doing what I enjoy the most: cooking for friends. I think I’ve finally figured out why this is: I’m somewhat of an antisocial individual.
Now if you know me personally, you may argue, but hear me out. I love being around other people, but unless I’m in control of the situation, I’m often uncomfortable or at a loss for words. Cocktail parties are somewhat difficult for me, as I’m terrible at making small talk. When my law firm holds social functions, I struggle to find the right thing to say, even with my friends.
But when I’m cooking at my house, I’m in charge of everything. I don’t have to maintain a conversation if I don’t want to, because I have the food to attend to. I can always leave the dinner table to take care of something in the kitchen. Sure, I love company while I’m cooking, and I love to make cocktails and pour wine, but those are interactions where I’m controlling the situation. And I don’t have to sustain any lengthy dialog. If you know me, you know I like to host dinner parties.
I also love being the center of attention, strangely enough.
And it is these characteristics that I often see in chefs. They are most comfortable behind the stove, when they are in control. They love to “perform” for others and enjoy receiving feedback and adulation from their customers. But take many (not all) of those chefs away from their kitchens, and they’re somewhat awkward. Just like me. Or except when they’re around others in the industry, and then all bets are off.
So, is this somewhat dichotomous antisocial/center of attention personality as common with chefs as I think. Or is it really — and I mean this literally — just me?
2 Comments | chefs, General | Tagged: chefs | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
