December 24, 2010
I love gingerbread. It’s always been one of my favorite flavors, particularly when served warm with some soft cream. It represents the essence of winter comfort food, not too sweet, with depths of flavor beyond most other desserts. But that depth was sometimes illusory, as it was just a smack of molasses paired with a touch of ground ginger. This holiday season, I wanted more flavor. I wanted more complexity. I wanted a goddamned adult version of gingerbread.
Thank goodness for Karen Barker.
Barker, the co-owner and Beard Award winning pastry chef of Durham’s Magnolia Grill, has the hand’s-down-bet-the-farm-you-can-take-it-to-the-bank-absolute-best gingerbread you’ll ever taste. This isn’t one of those pale cakes that you whip together in 2 minutes that will still taste just fine. This is a dark, foreboding-looking gingerbread, with three types of ginger, coffee, black pepper, and dry mustard in it. It’s a gingerbread that has some kick, without being piquant. It’s not a dense cake, but it’s really rich. And when paired with something somewhat sweet, like Barker’s Hot Buttered Rum Raisin Sauce and some vanilla-nutmeg ice cream — oh, my.
And that’s what my guests were saying last week when I concluded a 6 course dinner party last weekend. This dish is a winner. This gingerbread means business. And hell, yeah, I made three of those cakes, so there was plenty for breakfast the rest of the week.
Not-Afraid-of-Flavor Gingerbread
- 2-1/2 cups flour
- 1/2 tsp cinnamon
- 1/2 tsp ground cloves
- 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
- 1/2 tsp ground ginger
- 1/4 tsp dry mustard
- 1/2 tsp kosher salt
- 8 Tbsp (1 stick) unsalted butter
- 1 cup sugar
- 2 Tbsp peeled, very finely chopped fresh ginger
- 2 Tbsp finely chopped crystallized ginger
- 2 eggs
- 1/4 cup canola or vegetable oil
- 1 cup molasses
- 1/2 cup brewed coffee
- 2 tsp baking soda
- 1/2 cup orange juice
Preheat oven to 350 F. Butter a 9X9X2 square pan or a 10X2 round pan. Line bottom with parchment paper, and butter the paper.
Whisk together the flour, cinnamon, cloves, black pepper, ground ginger, dry mustard and salt.
With a mixer, cream butter with the sugar and the fresh and crystallized ginger. Add eggs one at a time to blend.
Slowly add the oil and then the molasses. Mix to blend.
Gradually add the flour and spice mix until just barely blended, scraping bowl as needed.
Heat up the coffee in a small saucepan to a simmer, add the baking soda, stir, and add to the mix. Add the orange juice until fully combined. The batter will be thinner than what you would expect.
Pour batter into the pan and bake at 350F for about an hour and a toothpick comes out clean. Cool in pan. Invert onto parchment paper, and then flip back over onto serving platter. Eat. And then eat some more.
From “Sweet stuff: Karen Barker’s American Desserts” by Karen Barker, University of North Carolina Press
Leave a Comment » | 
Best Of the Triangle, chefs, Cooking, Durham, General, Recipes | Tagged: Baking, Gingerbread, Karen Barker, Magnolia Grill, Recipes | 
Permalink
Posted by Varmint
December 8, 2010
OPA!!! You know, I really like Greek food, but I rarely eat it. The saganaki is always a treat for the family, you can’t go wrong with kabobs, and any cuisine that highlights lamb can’t be bad. There’s lots of great olive oil and herbs I love and feta and more. Why, oh, why do I hardly venture out to a Greek restaurant then? And why have I never been to Durham’s Spartacus Restaurant, which has been open for 17 years and is the subject of Greg Cox’s review this Friday? I can come up with a lot of excuses. I don’t get over to Durham all that much anyway. Hell, I don’t get out to eat that much, period (except for lunch). And when I’m craving a food, it’s probably not the simple, classic style of cooking that is Greek food (except for the occasional lunchtime gyro, but even that’s not something I do all that much).
Anyhow, I suspect Spartacus has lasted for nearly 2 decades because it’s good, high value food. It’s a place where the owners value the customers. It’s not because of it’s location, in the old South Square area on the Chapel Hill side of Durham, nestled by a Target and a Sam’s Club (or maybe that is a reason for its success, with all the traffic in the area). Maybe it’s because of their belly dancer, Paola. I might give the place a try on a Friday night just for that!
I also think that Greg Cox will have liked Spartacus. Maybe not loved it, but a strong like. So the question ultimately comes to this: is Spartacus a 3 star place, or does it get that extra half star? My head tells me that it’s just 3, but for some reason, I’m leaning towards that 3.5 star review. I could chicken out and give them both the same odds, but I’m not going to do that. Here we go:
5 stars — 100 to 1
4.5 stars – 25 to 1
4 stars — 3 to 1
3.5 stars — 7 to 5
3 stars — 6 to 5
2.5 stars — 5 to 2
2 stars — 5 to 1
1.5 stars — 8 to 1
1 star — 23 to 1
Yeah, I really went out on a limb with those odds. Anyhow, what’s your prediction? And do I need to get over to Durham?
***************************************
Edit, December 10, 2010: Argh! I really missed on this one, as Greg Cox gave Spartacus 2.5 stars. I’m losing my touch. Or I’m getting lazier by not doing any research on this place.
3 Comments | Durham, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Durham, Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette, Spartacus Restaurant | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
November 3, 2010
A long time ago, Pop’s was a really hip restaurant owned by hipsters, visited by hipsters, and all with a hipster attitude to match. The menu was fairly ordinary semi-upscale Italian, but the food was good. But that was indeed a LONG time ago. A lot has changed over the years. There’s no more attitude. They’ve actually moved locations. And the food is still pretty damn good. Or so I’ve heard, because I have not been to Pop’s since the days that they opened. It’s not that I held a grudge for all these years over the place’s attitude, it’s just that I never made it back to Durham to eat there.
And now Pop’s is about to be reviewed by the Raleigh News & Observer’s restaurant critic, Greg Cox. I think Mr. Cox will like Pop’s. I hope he has a silly title for the review, like, “Pop’s Rocks.” Mikey would like that title, I bet (that’s an obscure joke based on an urban legend that 2 people will get). But I look at the menu of Pop’s, and I scream, “I WANT THAT IN RALEIGH!” And I also know that the owners, John Vandergrift and Chris Stinnett (who also own Rue Cler), really care about their craft. So I do think this place will get lots of shining stars from Cox.
But how many??
It’s not a 5 star place. It will get at least 4 stars, I can confidently proclaim. Will it get that elusive extra half star? That’s the big question, and I could be a chicken shit and give 4 and 4.5 stars the same odds. But I, however, am a fearless prognosticator who dares to take the big chance, to live on the edge, to go without a helmet, to shoot for the stars, and to get rid of the training wheels. I’m going with 4 stars, but only because I think Greg Cox will start to be a bit harder to please.
Am I right? Am I wrong? Does anyone really care?
5 stars — 7 to 1
4.5 stars – 5 to 4
4 stars — 4 to 5
3.5 stars — 3 to 1
3 stars — 6 to 1
2.5 stars — 8 to 1
2 stars — 16 to 1
1.5 stars — 25 to 1
1 star — 60 to 1
What sayeth you? How many stars will Pop’s receive this Friday???
*******************************
Edit, November 5, 2010 — Damn, I hate being wrong in one way and right in another. I hate it when my odds are off, as Greg Cox gave Pop’s 3.5 stars. I was right when I suspected getting 4 stars would be harder than ever before. And Tom from Raleigh, you should have bet some money!
7 Comments | Durham, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Durham, Durham dining, Greg Cox, News & Observer, Pop's, Restaurant Review Roulette | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
August 10, 2010
Many of you might think that my kids eat everything and anything put in front of them. Not so. Each of our four children has his or her idiosyncrasies, things that are loved or loathed. My oldest loves most food, but he hates legumes of any kind — except for roasted peanuts, perhaps. He just can’t stand the texture and now the taste. My older daughter doesn’t like seafood or red meat. My younger son doesn’t like cooked fruit, except for applesauce. My younger daughter doesn’t like bananas or fresh peaches or pineapple. Only one of the kids will eat raw tomatoes and none of them like cilantro. I sometimes stress out, as my (unrealistic) expectations are that they should like everything. Yes, that’s a completely ludicrous position, and I’m coming to grips with it.
I recently visited Vin Rouge in Durham, taking my younger two children (they’re 9 and 11). I’ve known chef Matt Kelly before he started there, but I’ve only eaten his cooking a couple of times. Vin Rouge has become the place where other chefs eat, primarily because of Kelly’s dedication to the craft of cooking. He’s one hell of a cook, and if you ever visit on a Sunday night, you’ll find a handful of local chefs eating there on their night off.
Anyhow, shortly after we sat down, a huge charcuterie plate landed on our table, featuring 5 different kinds of pate’, a pork rillette (or was it rabbit?), plus some bacon confiture, salami and other goodies. The kids tried some of the items on the plate, liking some and saying, “That’s different” with others. My son later tried and liked my sweetbreads. The kids ordered hanger steak — rare (although they were torn between that and the mussels). For dessert they had chocolate mousse and creme brulee. It was a pretty safe meal, except for the pate’ and the sweetbreads.
Last night I attended a potluck where a number of chefs were in attendance, including Matt Kelly. I thanked him again for the charcuterie plate and told him that my kids had fun with it. He responded, “It’s great to serve normal food to kids, as it’s so rare for that to happen. I get all kinds of crazy requests to accommodate kids.” I thought about that for a moment, and then realized that Matt’s statement might be the highest complement he could have paid me as a food-loving father. Suddenly, images of my kids’ food adventures started running through my head. I took those same two children to Publican in Chicago last month, where they sampled lamb neck, sturgeon, octopus and pork rinds. They loved the frites with fried eggs on top (someone needs to do that dish around here — are you listening, Ashley Christensen?). They didn’t think the food was weird at all.
And so, after all these years, I think that I’m finally able to handle the kids’ dislikes. They’re by no means picky eaters, and I realize that. They may never have a passion for food the way that I do, but they’ll always understand its importance. Yup, I’m damn lucky indeed.
5 Comments | chefs, Durham, Family and Food, Restaurants | Tagged: Family, Matt Kelly, Parenthood, Vin Rouge | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
May 26, 2010
After last week’s review of bu.ku, where I was quite confident of what Greg Cox was going to do, I return to unfamiliar territory of restaurants about which I know nothing. This time, it’s Durham’s Restaurant Eden, which based on its name strives to be a gustatory paradise. Restaurant Eden opened in the same location of the beloved, but insufficiently busy Starlu. The teaser in today’s N&O says that Eden has some hits and misses — but then, that’s what happened in the Book of Genesis, too, right? Alas, that teaser shows that Eden may not be a 5 star place that defines a garden of paradise. Another thing that suggests the same is that 5 of the 9 entrees on the menu include “Garden Veggies.” Now, we know that the Garden of Eden was filled with lots of great things to eat, and one that was a bit taboo, but let me just say that I suspect that even Adam and Even never called anything “veggies.” That’s a term used by the serpent or lazy marketing folks. But even worse is for a restaurant to use these same veggies time and time again — that’s not paradise, folks, that’s Applebee’s. Just sayin’. And I also want to know if they serve apples or any other forbidden fruit in this restaurant. Is it clothing optional, or is this Eden after the fall from grace? So many questions.
So, without further ado, here are this week’s odds:
5 stars — 39 to 1
4.5 stars – 22 to 1
4 stars — 9 to 1
3.5 stars — 3 to 1
3 stars — 5 to 2
2.5 stars — 4 to 1
2 stars — 9 to 1
1.5 stars — 23 to 1
1 star — 58 to 1
Have you dined at Restaurant Eden? If so, how many stars would you give it? More importantly, how many stars do you think Greg Cox will bestow upon it? And let me know if there are any serpents lurking about.
*************************
Edit, May 28, 2010 — Greg Cox gave Restaurant Eden 2.5 stars. The review reads like the restaurant deserves more than that, as it focuses on somewhat misleading menu descriptions and a heavy hand with the balsamic reduction. I suspect this is one review that was hurt by the paper’s space limitations. Would love for Greg to post on his blog his thoughts on other dishes.
4 Comments | Durham, General, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Eden, Restaurant Review Roulette | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
May 25, 2010
Phoebe Lawless, Durham’s baker extraordinaire, will be opening Scratch’s new bakeshop next week at 111 Orange Street in downtown Durham. For those of you who do not regularly visit the Durham Farmer’s Market, Lawless is known for her fantastic pies, including chocolate sea salt, shaker lemon, and many savory varieties. Of course, Phoebe’s donut muffins are, as my 9 year old puts it, “To die for.” Those donut muffins were a huge hit at last fall’s Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium, and they sell out quickly each week at the Durahm market.
Construction of the new bakeshop has been ongoing for several months, and final inspections are scheduled for the first of next week. The 1,400 square foot bakeshop will have a regularly rotating schedule of baked goods, including empanadas, flatbreads, and lots of pie. Lawless sources nearly all her ingredients locally, and she is one of the leaders of the local Slow Food convivium. The bakeshop will also be a great place for coffee, as Lawless invested in a La Marzocco espresso machine and will be using Counter Culture’s beans. The hours of the bakeshop will be 7:30 to 4, Monday through Friday and Saturday from 9 to 3.
And for you farmer’s market faithful, no need to worry, as Phoebe will continue to have a booth on market days.
Time for a donut muffin.
************
Scratch Seasonal Artisan Baking
111 Orange Street
Durham, NC 27701
919-956-5200
piefantasy.com
2 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, chefs, Durham, General, Restaurants | Tagged: Bakers, Durham Farmer's Market, Phoebe Lawless, Scratch, Scratch Baking, Scratch Seasonal Artisan Baking | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
May 5, 2010
Boy, Greg Cox is making it tough on me. This week’s review is of Durham’s Sitar Indian Cuisine (formerly known as Sitar India Palace, as evidenced by its web address). This is not a new restaurant, as Cox previously reviewed it in 1998. If you look up that old review on Triangle.com, it appears that Sitar only received one star. I question that rating, simply because that mini-review named Sitar as the best Indian restaurant in the Triangle at that time.
What is new about Sitar appears to be its location. My research on Chowhound and other places indicate that Sitar has moved to a bigger and nicer location, which, I suspect, helped lead to this updated review.
Of all the cuisines in the Triangle, I might be least knowledgeable with Indian food. I know, I know, there’s so many different variations of Indian food, where even slight changes in location result in major changes of cuisine. But I don’t know it that well. Moreover, I’ve never been to Sitar. Online discussions seem to place it in the fair to good category, and it’s pretty clear that the community no longer believes Sitar to be the best Indian in the area.
I suspect this is a clear case of a 3 star review.
So here are this week’s odds:
5 stars — 123,456,789 to 1
4.5 stars – 1,000 to 1
4 stars — 15 to 1
3.5 stars — 5 to 1
3 stars — 3 to 2
2.5 stars — 3 to 1
2 stars — 4 to 1
1.5 stars — 12 to 1
1 star — 25 to 1
And what do you think of Sitar? How many stars would you give it? How many stars do you think Greg Cox will give Sitar?
*****************
(Edit — May 7, 2010) Greg Cox gave Sitar 3.5 stars. Hell, he even recommended the buffet!
Leave a Comment » | Durham, General, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Greg Cox, Restaurant Review Roulette, Sitar India Palace, Sitar Indian Cuisine | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
April 7, 2010
This is a blatant rip-off of a recent piece in the Seattle Weekly, but I don’t give a damn. Here are a few local restaurants that could be a sex shop if you didn’t know any better. Sure, I may be making fun of some foreign language issues, but I’ll get over it if you do.
7. Humble Pie — Frankly, any place with the word “pie” in it will qualify here, but this Raleigh institution fit the bill.
6. Wang’s Kitchen — This is a silly, slightly politically incorrect take.
5. Fu Kee Express — See above, but this one is a lot funnier. If you need a quickie . . .
4. Buns — So simple. Sir Mix-A-Lot would like it here.
3. Woody’s — Anyone with this name deserves a spot here.
2. Twisted Noodle — I really don’t want to think too much what might go on in this place.
1. Jerk Masters — They’re the absolute best when it comes to a nice jerk.
Honorable Mentions: Pho Cali (come on, say it out loud), Roast Grill (actually, just for their “Hot Weiners” sign), Casalinga (sounds dirty to me), Hot Pot, Globe.
4 Comments | Cary, Chapel Hill, Durham, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: Sex Shops, Triangle Restaurants | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
April 7, 2010
Since I started this silly game of guessing how many stars Greg Cox would give a restaurant, I’ve pretty much been on the money. I’ve been spot on for the last three reviews, I missed by half a star for Mambo Italiano, and Mr. Cox surprised us all when he gave 618 Bistro a single, sad star.
This week, Cox is reviewing a sushi bar — Sansui. In suburban Durham. In what appears to be a strip mall (although I’m not sure about that). What I do know is this. I’ve never been to Sansui. I never knew a place named Sansui existed before this morning. I thought Sansui made stereo equipment. So quite honestly, I don’t have a flying flip about this place. But I suspect I still may be able to nail the review.
I also know that sushi bars in the Triangle are pretty much all the same. Yeah, some places are a bit more creative than others, but unless they’re using really bad or old fish, you run across the same old same old in every place. It’s kind of like the Mexican restaurants of the El Rodeo ilk — they almost have identical menus. I mean, is one place’s Dragon Roll superior to another’s? And are the ginger dressing or miso soup any different?
Because of that, I’m guessing, based purely on Sansui’s sushi menu, that it will be a 3 star review. It doesn’t appear to be all that different from your run-of-the-mill sushi restaurant around here. Now if they get a lot more local fish, then that might be different. Or if their Japanese menu were unusual, then I’d also reevaluate. But based on what I see, I’m sticking with my 3 star guess. And if Greg Cox says it’s a 4 star place, then I’ll be the first to head over to try Sansui.
5 stars — 11,111 to 1
4.5 stars –111 to 1
4 stars — 11 to 1
3.5 stars — 3.14159 to 1
3 stars — 2 to 1
2.5 stars — 4 to 1
2 stars — 11 to 1
1 to 1.5 stars — 22 to 1
Who’s been to Sansui? And is it any different from all the other places around here?
***************
Edit — Well, I was off by half a star, as Sansui received 3.5 stars from Greg Cox.
10 Comments | Durham, General, Restaurant Roulette | Tagged: Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette, Restaurants | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
February 17, 2010
Let’s start something really silly for the area. Each week, the News & Observer tells us in its Wednesday edition what restaurant will be reviewed on the following Friday. Greg Cox’s review of Durham’s Guglhupf will be published on Friday, and it’s time for us to guess how many stars he’ll give it.
As you know, the N&O has a 5 star system, and only the best of the best get all 5 stars.
So, how many stars will Guglhupf get???
************
Edit (Feb. 19, 2010) — Guglhupf received 4 stars from Greg Cox, making it the highest ranked German/Eastern European restaurant in the Triangle, surpassing J. Betski’s. Wow. Congratulations to Drew and Smily, who nailed it. You have the admiration and respect of the Greater Triangle Blogosphere, but alas, no tangible prizes are coming your way.
12 Comments | Durham, Food writing, General | Tagged: Greg Cox, News & Observer, restaurant reviews | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
January 21, 2010
This Sunday and Monday, a number of Triangle-based restaurants will be donating 10% of their proceeds to two charities for the relief efforts in Haiti. This effort was initiated on Facebook by local chefs and foodies, and as of the time of this post, there are 20 restaurants participating. Here’s the list of confirmed restaurants:
SUNDAY, JANUARY 24
Watt’s Grocery (Durham)
Bogart’s American Grill (Raleigh)
Crook’s Corner (Evening Service Only – Chapel Hill)
Cup A Joe (Chapel Hill)
HI5 (Raleigh)
Joe Van Gogh (Durham)
Michael Dean’s Seafood Grill (Raleigh)
Milltown (Carrboro)
Panzanella (Carrboro)
Red Room Tapas Lounge (Raleigh)
Saladelia Cafe (Durham)
Saxapahaw General Store (Saxapahaw)
Southern Rail (Carrboro)
The Mash House (Fayetteville)
Twisted Fork (Raleigh)
West End Wine Bar (Durham)
MONDAY, JANUARY 25
ACME Food and Beverage Co. (Carrboro)
Cup A Joe (Chapel Hill)
Cypress On The Hill (Chapel Hill)
Foster’s Market (Durham/Chapel Hill)
GlassHalFull (Carrboro)
Globe Restaurant (Raleigh)
Joe Van Gogh (Durham)
Lantern (Chapel Hill)
Mad Hatter’s Bakeshop and Cafe (Durham)
Neal’s Deli (Carrboro)
Parker and Otis (Durham)
Pop’s (Durham)
Rockwood Filling Station (Durham)
Ruckus Pizza Pasta and Spirits (Cary)
Rue Cler (Durham)
Sandwhich (Chapel Hill)
Six Plates Wine Bar (Durham)
Toast (Durham)
Tyler’s Restaurant and Tap Room (Carborro, Durham and Apex)
West End Wine Bar (Chapel Hill)
Zely and Ritz (Raleigh)
More information on this fantastic effort can be found on this Facebook page or this new blog that’s been started. The blog says that 10% of profits will be donated to the charities, but that is a misprint. It is 10% of sales. So go to brunch on Sunday and then to dinner on Monday. And spread the word!
(Edited to reflect changes to participating restaurants at 8:15 AM, 1/23/10)
9 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, Cary, Chapel Hill, chefs, Durham, Events, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: Charity, Dine Out for Haiti, Dining, Haiti, Restaurants, Triangle | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
December 16, 2009
Ever drink an Abita Amber? Or a Turbodog? How about a Purple Haze? Well, those are all beers that my good buddy Brooks Hamaker formulated and brewed down in Abita Springs, Louisiana for the iconic Abita Brewing Company. Brooks was with Abita at its inception and helped grow the brewery into the South’s leading producer of craft beer.
And now he’s coming to North Carolina to join the crew at Durham’s Fullsteam Brewery as its Head of Operations. Brooks will initially focus on helping to move and install Fullsteam’s brewhouse to the new brewpad. He’ll work with brewer Chris Davis to help fine-tune the brewing system and scale brewery operations in anticipation of a spring launch.
Needless to say, I’m incredibly excited for Fullsteam, which will be opening in the spring, producing its fantastic Southern agricultural beers. I’m also excited for founder Sean Lilly Wilson, who now has the perfect operations guy to help run the show. But in the end, I’m excited for me, as one of my best friends in the world is relocating from New Orleans to Durham, and I’ll get to drink his beer.
Brooks isn’t just a brewer; he’s a food writer, too, who has appeared in many regional and national publications. Of course, we were both on the managerial staff of the eGullet Culinary Society. Salon.com recently appointed Brooks to the Salon Kitchen Cabinet, where he serves as the online magazine’s resident beer expert. And hell, he even dates a Beard Award-winning chef.
And I will be writing about the construction of the Fullsteam Brewery in the coming weeks. There’s a lot of work to be done, but now that Brooks Hamaker is onboard, I see nothing but smooth sailing — and drinking — ahead. Welcome to the Triangle, Brooksie!
11 Comments | Durham, General | Tagged: Abita, Brooks Hamaker, Fullsteam Brewery, Sean Lilly Wilson | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
August 4, 2009
I love the folks at Fullsteam Brewery. They’re not afraid to take chances, and they truly want to form novel connections between agriculture and beer. They also aren’t afraid to let their southern side show, as evidenced by their beer that is designed to go with barbecue and a rhubarb-flavored ale. This is really good stuff, and they haven’t even opened for business yet.
Today, however, they’ve gone a step further, with their first installment of “The Kudzu Chronicles,” where they describe their efforts to use kudzu in one of their beers. Kudzu is pretty damn ubiquitous across the South, so if they succeed, they’ll have an inexpensive ingredient that folks will readily allow them to cut.
Interestingly, some studies have suggested that kudzu may be effective in reducing alcohol intake. Putting kudzu in beer may be akin to putting a humidifier and dehumidifier in the same room and letting them duke it out (nods to Steven Wright).
2 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, Durham, General | Tagged: Beer, Fullsteam Brewery, Kudzu | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
July 8, 2009
The News & Observer’s Andrea Weigl has put together a list of the top 50 food items/icons in the Triangle, and boy, what a list it is! And you know what? There’s no way in hell I could have come close to doing such a great job. Now mind you, there are a lot more than 50 things on this list as Weigl has a number of groupings, such as women chefs (Andrea Reusing, Amyu Trnquist and Ashley Christensen) as a single listing.
So go to the multi-media presentation and check out the listing. What did she miss? What should not be included?
Edit: Oh my goodness, this blog got a mention as #42 on the list! Thanks, Andrea!!!
15 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, Cary, Chapel Hill, chefs, Durham, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: Andrea Weigl, Cary, Chapel Hill, Durham, Food, News & Observer, Raleigh, Top 50 in the Triangle | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
June 16, 2009
Ever since they opened their Durham shop, owners Seth Gross and Craig Heffley have persistently emailed me, trying to get me into Wine Authorities. They’d tell me that had a spot available for one of their wine classes at no charge. They’d let me know about how they could help me to remember which wines I drank (which I’ve NEVER been able to do). Heck, they recently emailed me to let me know that they sell a bunch of artisinal bacons. But I never visited their store, despite their efforts to the contrary.
Finally, this past Saturday, I had a need for wine and some spare time and made the 24 minute drive. The store was packed with about 20 folks sitting around the tasting bar in the rear, listening to Heffley talking about the 4 wines being sampled. I introduced myself to Gross, who was manning a cash register, and he quickly showed me what the store is all about. Shortly thereafter, I quickly kicked myself for not getting over to Wine Authorities sooner. Yes, I knew that the public loves them and their commitment to smaller estate wineries. I know that they’d been written up in the big food magazines. I knew that they focused on value, selling no wines over $50. And I had heard about how consumer-focused they were, but I had no idea how much so.
I now know better. A lot better.
Wine Authorities is the wine shop that should be in every town. They make it incredibly easy on the customer to find a great wine within his or her particular budgetary constraints. They don’t push any wine. They listen to the customer and make appropriate recommendations. They don’t act superior or condescending, even when you butcher the pronunciation of “Languedoc.” And to me, most importantly, they help me remember what it is that I bought and drank. At checkout, you get a print-out describing each wine in your purchase. From your home you can access a listing of those same purchases — strike that, a listing of any wine you’ve ever bought at the place, sortable by price, date of purchase, personal rating, and more. You can add your own tasting notes. Mine are very simple, like, “Great, refreshing party wine!” Or, “Loved the fruit in this one.” As I’ve written before, I’m no wine guy. But that Barbera d’Asti I bought was a Cantina Sant’ Evasio, and the rosé is a Chateau Bellevue la Forêt, Fronton Rosé. I still might not remember the wines, but at least I can recall them electronically. Man, I love these guys.
But they’re in Durham. Where the cool kids hang out. I’m pushing them to open a shop in Raleigh, but until they do, I might have to get used to the drive to the Bull City.
************
Wine Authorities
2501 University Drive
Durham, NC 27707
919-489-2884
http://www.wineauthorities.com
4 Comments | Durham | Tagged: Durham, Wine, Wine Authorities, Wine Shops | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
April 29, 2009
The second annual Triangle Restaurant Week will be held across the Triangle on May 11-17. Restaurant Week has been a fixture in other cities for years, where restaurants offer a three-course menu for a low, fixed price. For the Triangle event, lunch will cost $15 and dinner will be $25. Many restaurants typically provide a special “Restaurant Week” menu, but other places allow diners to order off the menu, recognizing that they want their customers to experience the full menu. As I learn more details, I’ll report back here.
Last year, Restaurant Week only included restaurants in Raleigh, but the event has truly expanded by including a number of Durham and Cary-based establishments.
Some of the restaurants that I would consider checking out include Four Square, 18 Seaboard, Jibarra, Il Palio, Frazier’s, and Sitti. There are currently 48 places that are participating this year, which is fantastic growth. Go to the Triangle Restaurant Week website for more information.
6 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, Cary, Chapel Hill, Durham, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: Food, Restaurants, Triangle Restaurant Week | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
April 13, 2009
Chef Marco Shaw of Portland’s Fife will soon be headed to North Carolina to help open Durham’s Eno Restaurant and Market. Shaw has been a major leader in the farm-to-table movement in Oregon, and Eno’s relationship with Coon Rock Farms should be a natural fit here in the Triangle. I had the pleasure of “hosting” Marco and his wife Julie when they scouted the area several months ago, and there is no doubt that their relocation will be a huge asset to us all. Shaw is from D.C. and has spent a lot of time vacationing at the Outer Banks, so he is familiar with North Carolina traditions (and having proclaimed Wilbur’s to be his favorite NC barbecue, he obviously has great taste, too).
3 Comments | chefs, Durham, Restaurants | Tagged: Eno Restaurant & Market, Fife, Marco Shaw | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
December 9, 2008
Most 59 year old men are starting to plan for their later years in life, for the time when they slow down, take on fewer responsibilities, and simplify. Mel Melton is no such man. Melton, chef and co-owner of Papa Mojo’s Roadhouse in Durham, is looking to go faster. To do more. To live life to its fullest. See, Melton is not just a chef, he’s also a musician and a farmer. His band, Mel Melton & the Wicked Mojos, recently opened for BB King in Durham. Melton has played with the likes of Sonny Landreth, CJ Chenier, and Buckwheat Zydeco. He partied with Janis Joplin in 1968 after she played a gig at Duke. He’s learned to cook from Paul Prudhomme. And less than a year ago, he and his business partner Antonio Almaleh, decided to open a cajun/creole restaurant in the Triangle. Read the rest of this entry »
3 Comments | chefs, Durham, Restaurants, Southern food | Tagged: Cajun Food, Food, Mel Melton, Mel Melton & The Wicked Mojos, Papa Mojo's Roadhouse, Zydeco | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
June 26, 2008
The folks behind Raleigh’s Zely & Ritz have combined forces with local food enthusiast and bon vivant Jamie DeMent to open a new farm-to-table restaurant in Durham, Eno Restaurant & Market. Scheduled to open at the end of this year, Richard Holcomb and Sarig Agasi, will open in partnership with Holcomb’s Coon Rock Farm in the Fire Station Building in downtown Durham.
A native North Carolinian, DeMent was raised around her family’s farm supply store and developed an interest in organically farmed foods and environmental issues after seeing nearby farms slowly disappear throughout her childhood. Holcomb, who began Coon Rock Farm in 2005 after 20 successful years as a software entrepreneur, is pleased to have a new outlet for his heirloom vegetables and pasture raised meats including chickens (and some of the best eggs around), pork, lamb, goat and more.
The restaurant’s menu will be dictated by Coon Rock Farm’s harvest and the season. In addition to the vegetables, expect to see house-made bacon, whole hog terrines, pates and sausages. Eno will tap into other local providers for dairy products and other staples for the restaurant.
One of the cool parts of Eno comes from their restaurant staff work-share program, where cooks and servers alike will be involved in the growing of vegetables and raising of livestock. It’s their belief that this involvement of the staff from farm to restaurant will make a big difference in what is ultimately put on the diners’ plates. Very interesting.
In addition, Coon Rock Farm will offer its goods at a retail market adjacent to the restaurant , essentially bringing the farm to the customer.
Eno Restaurant & Market will serve lunch and dinner daily, and brunch on the weekends.
Eno Restaurant & Market
Rogers Alley
101 City Hall Plaza
Durham, NC
www.enorestaurantandmarket.com
3 Comments | chefs, Durham, Farms, General, Restaurants, Southern food | Tagged: Durham, Eno Restaurant & Market, Farms, Organic, Restaurants, Zely & Ritz | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
February 16, 2008
Ballots for the 2008 James Beard Awards have been sent to the judges, and there are a number of Triangle chefs and restaurants on this very long list. Just being on the ballot is an honor (OK, the founder of the Chipotle chain is there, so maybe not such an honor), although these have rarely been leaked to the public before.
Here are the locals who received a mention:
Best Chef: Southeast
Scott Howell, Nana’s
Andrea Reusing, Lantern
Chip Smith, Bonne Soiree
Rising Star Chef of the Year
Jeremy Sabo, South
Outstanding Restaurant
Magnolia Grill
Best New Restaurant
Watt’s Grocery
3 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, Chapel Hill, chefs, Durham, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: Food, James Beard Awards, RTP, Triangle | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
