Mandolin — Coming to Raleigh

November 18, 2011

Wow. A new chef-driven restaurant is about to open in Raleigh, and I’m really excited by it. Mandolin is the name of Chef Sean Fowler’s establishment, located at the intersection of Oberlin and Fairview in Raleigh’s Five Points neighborhood.

This is what I know about Mandolin: nothing. Well, I’ve seen their menu, which is Southern-inspired. I’ve looked at their website. But I know nothing about Sean Fowler. Or any of the staff. Even when a menu looks promising, as this one does, I reserve judgment until I taste the food. But for some reason, I just like the vibe that these folks have created. I really WANT to taste this food. And based on the Open Table reservation system, it looks like they open next Tuesday.

Raleigh needs more of these type of restaurants. I can’t wait to try it.


My Weekend With the SFA

October 31, 2011

I got back from the Southern Foodways Alliance’s annual Symposium, where the focus this year was on the “cultivated South.” And this is what I did:

  • I hung out with a poet who knows how to spin verses on deviled eggs.
  • I tasted the first olive oil produced east of the Mississippi in over a hundred years.
  • I watched an opera. An opera about collard greens.
  • I drank a Manhattan with the country’s leading cocktail authority.
  • I ate a foot-long, heirloom radish.
  • I made a hard apple cider float, with great cider from Foggy Ridge in Virginia and freshly made vanilla ice milk.
  • I learned about the growth of community gardens in the parking lots of Atlanta.
  • I helped raise $270,000 from some amazing generous individuals.
  • I sang “Scenes from an Italian Restaurant” with an owner of a popsicle shop.
  • I sipped punch from a bathtub.
  • I had lunch with the original publisher of Spin magazine.
  • I ate a slice of wild boar prosciutto.
  • I saw an amazing set of food-themed photographs from an incredibly talented young lady.
  • I snacked on boiled peanuts while watching a film about, what else, boiled peanuts.
  • I tasted far too many different bourbons than I can remember.
  • I had some of the best fried chicken, while staring in awe at the customer beside me who devoured 8 pieces in 10 minutes.
  • I took home a packet of pimento seeds, which I will plant in the spring.
  • I sadly learned about the demise of the native mirliton, but also was happily informed of one man’s quest to bring it back.
  • I spooned fig and bourbon preserves onto a country ham biscuit, confirming a match made in Southern heaven.
  • I rode on a school bus with a woman who wore a different Elvis t-shirt every day.
  • I had lunch with a fishmonger who brings seafood from the Gulf of Mexico to the West Coast.
  • I discovered that people will come up with crazy variations on common games, such as “Sexual Jenga.” And no, I did not play it.
  • I realized that I would like to have a bento box for lunch every day.
  • I smiled after a talented friend “blinged up” my name tag with Hello Kitty stickers (and more).
  • I chatted with one of the best chefs in the Triangle, only to learn that our families are from the same neck of the woods.
  • I was proven wrong: someone does make a good fried pickle.
That’s what I did this weekend, and this was just the tip of the iceberg. What did you do?

I’ve Started a Second Blog

August 18, 2011

One of the things that I really like about this blog is that I’ve been able to keep it about food — with maybe one exception — since I started it years ago.  I haven’t ventured into music or literature or any of the arts. I haven’t discussed politics.

But one of the limitations of this blog is that it’s only about food, and lately, I’ve just had a lot of other things on my mind outside the world of what we eat, where we eat, and how we eat it. And I haven’t written much about food, either. Nevertheless, my ego is sufficiently large that I felt I needed another outlet outside of the food world.

So I’ve started another blog, the lamely named, VarmintWrites.  I probably won’t do much writing on the new blog, either, but I’m thinking of it as a place where I can post thoughts that require a bit more space than a Twitter or Facebook post.  Like today, when I wrote seeking guidance on a game plan to maximize my Hopscotch experience.

So join me over at VarmintWrites and leave a comment.


Garden Update — Tomato Season

July 22, 2011

I’ve got tomatoes. A buttload of tomatoes. Every day that I walk behind the house to the garden, I discover at least a dozen tomatoes ready for picking. After popping a couple of cherry tomatoes in my mouth, straight off the vine, I take the rest inside and wonder how lucky I am. My friend who gave me these plants suffered some sort of blight, and he ended up with nearly no tomatoes.  I’m not really doing much at all, and I’m eating the best tasting tomatoes I’ve ever had.

All seven of the plants are producing fruit, but two of them have not yet had the tomatoes ripen sufficiently. This is what I’ve eaten so far:

Bloody Butchers. These are bright red tomatoes that are fairly small, about the size of a billiard ball. That might be because I allowed the plant to branch off in so many directions that the fruit won’t grow very large, but these are great tomatoes. They were the first to ripen, and I usually have 2-5 tomatoes to harvest each day.  And how can you not love a tomato with that name??

Green Doctors. These greenish-yellow cherry tomatoes might be my favorite. They’re loaded with sweet flavor and have a fairly high level of acid. I’m getting about 5-10 of these each day, and a fair number of them get eaten immediately after picking.

Black Cherry. This is another extremely flavorful cherry tomato that I also love. They are ripening just a bit more slowly than the Green Doctors, but I also find myself eating these suckers in the garden.  I love mixing these with the Green Doctors, as the colors are fantastic.

Purple Cherokee. I’ve had this tomato variety many times, and it’s always been a favorite. What I didn’t realize was how big these suckers get. I actually made a pasta sauce for 4 people with a single Purple Cherokee tomato. I am looking forward to this weekend, when I will have two of these tomatoes for BLT sandwiches.

The other tomato variety we’ve eaten (but no photos) is the Pearly Pink, which is a milder-flavored, smallish, pear-shaped tomato. We’ll have lots of these shortly, but so far, these appear to be the tomato that isn’t packed with flavor. I need to try a few more.

I also know we have Missouri Pink Love Apples, which are larger, pink slicing tomatoes. I’m really looking forward to trying this variety. My seventh plant remains a mystery — we have no idea what it is.

Last night I had to cook for the family, and we were getting just a bit tired of raw tomatoes, so I used everything in the picture above to make a sauce with boneless chicken thighs, one of my family’s favorites. I don’t have a picture of the finished dish, but get a load of the colors!

Finally, news on the rest of the garden: the cucumbers are starting to fade. The leaves are turning yellow, and the fruit just doesn’t have enough time to mature before the heat gets to them.  The zucchini continues to surprise me. Just when I think it’s produced all it will, I find two or three more zucchini out there. My pepper plant is just doing so-so, but it does have a pepper on it now!  The cantaloupe is doing very well. I should have one melon ready to pick this weekend, and there are at least 5 others growing. The watermelon needs a bit more time. We harvested one of the melons after it had stopped growing, and it still wasn’t ready. The flesh was very pale and although there was some sugar, I think that it had suffered from overwatering.  I’m still trying to figure out this whole gardening thing!


Garden Update — July 2, 2011

July 3, 2011

My last garden update was three weeks ago, and a fair amount has happened. My tomatoes are about to explode. I’ve got dozens, if not hundreds, of tomatoes on the vines. I suspect I should have thinned out the suckers a bit more than I did, but I’ll be fine. I’ve eaten three relatively small tomatoes, and they were absolutely delicious — an extremely gratifying snack.  But I’ve got some softball sized behemoths that should start to ripen shortly, a bunch of cherry tomatoes that keep multiplying, and plenty of sizes in between.

I’ve already started giving away zucchini. I have been told how it can take over a garden, and now I know. But I’m not complaining. It’s so good and so fresh. A friend delivered a loaf of zucchini bread the other day, and I’ll finish it off for breakfast today. I also know that a 6 inch zucchini can triple in size in just a couple of days.

The cucumbers are wildly successful. I’ve taken to eating a cucumber a day, with some sea salt and a splash of vinegar or lemon. Or sometimes, with some Hendrick’s gin! It’s the cucumbers that have made me appreciate bees, which are attracted to this fruit’s flowers more than anything else in the garden. Bees are so incredibly important to gardens, and I love to see them flying through the flowers, gathering nectar, spreading pollen.

I’m quite excited about the watermelon and cantaloupe. I have one watermelon that’s bigger than a softball, and another that is baseball-sized. I’ve got one maturing cantaloupe that is still green, and a lot of little baby cantaloupe that looked like they’ve just been pollinated.

I visit my garden at least twice a day, and when I do, a complete calm falls over me. This is a calm that is different than the peace I experience when cooking, but no less rewarding. I’m lost in that garden, pulling up a weed, checking the cucumber trellis, seeing the damage the rabbits did (rabbits like cantaloupe leaves; watermelon, not so much). It might be 95 degrees out there, but I don’t care. Not only do I not mind being alone, I cherish the solitude. I’m happy. This is my garden. My space. My time. But at the same time, I want to share it. I want to give away my cucumbers. I want to tell friends about it. I want to show my daughter the watermelon she named after herself (yes, the bigger watermelon is named Clara). My garden gives me serenity. My garden gives me pride. My garden gives me nourishment. My garden gives me excitement.

Who knew?


Zucchini Alert

June 16, 2011

I picked my first zucchini on Tuesday, and when I got home at 9:30 last night, after a long day at work, I was just a little bit hungry. Just enough to cut up the zucchini, sauté it in some olive oil, add some fresh basil, a splash of lemon and sea salt.

It was perfect.

I really have come to love my garden and the serenity it provides. But the bottom line is that I really love eating what comes out of it.


Garden Update — Mid-June Edition

June 10, 2011

Before 3 hours of weeding

Boy, have I ever learned about gardening in the past few weeks. I’ve learned that you can leave your garden for a holiday weekend and come home to a prairie. The lesson from that is one should put down weed barriers wherever the crops are not planted. It took me over three hours (and several beers) to get rid of the weeds in the area between the rows.

I’ve learned a great way to “stake” the tomatoes, using string rather than wooden stakes or cages. I loosely tie  the string around  the base of the stem, wrap it around the stem, and tie it onto a cross rope that I’ve strung across several 5 foot tall stakes. As the plant grows, I have to add another rotation of string wrapping.  I’ve also put in a couple of horizontal “cross strings” to help support the plants. So far, so good.

I’ve learned about plant sex. I know my cucumbers are having manic cucumber sex, whereas the zucchini may need to visit Dr. Ruth. I know the difference between male and female flowers, and how to force the issue with zucchini, so to speak.  They’re propagating much better now, thanks to my handiwork.

I’ve learned that you really do need to thin your crop, particularly for the plants that produce in the dirt (carrots, turnips, beets).

I’ve learned that I planted my cauliflower, beets, turnips and carrots too late in the season. I was a little late with the lettuce, but it’s done just fine.

I’ve learned that even home-grown turnips still taste just like turnips. Sorry, just not all that exciting. And so far, I can’t say my lettuce or those baby beets taste that much better than what I can get at the farmers market, but I appreciate them a lot more.

I’ve learned that Pabst Blue Ribbon is mighty refreshing when weeding a garden. I haven’t worked outside while drinking beer in a LONG time, and that’s a nice benefit of gardening.

Perhaps most importantly, I’ve learned that I like gardening. It’s a calming endeavor, and I’ve really needed that of late. I like watering the garden, and even though it’s a pain in the ass, the weeding can be pretty cathartic, too. I want to learn more, and to do a better job next time around. I want to trim trees so I will get more sun (not gonna happen).

And now that I’ve harvested the beets and turnips, I’m looking for something new to plant. Any suggestions?


Ashley Christensen on Iron Chef America July 24

June 9, 2011

Ashley Christensen, chef and owner of Raleigh’s Poole’s Diner, will be on Food Network’s “Iron Chef America” on July 24 at 10 PM.  Christensen chose Iron Chef Bobby Flay as her competition, which was recorded some time now. Although some news leaked out that Ashley was on Iron Chef, the details have been highly confidential, including the outcome.  I believe she is the second local chef to appear on the show, as Walter Royal of the Angus Barn beat Cat Cora in 2007 several years ago.


A Garden Update

May 26, 2011

Well, the garden is still coming along.  The zucchini plants are above my knees, the tomatoes are flowering, and I’ve eaten three things from it, all salads: baby beet greens, young Parris Island Cos lettuce, and last night, a shaved turnip salad.  Yup, I pulled a young turnip out of the ground, and it was beautiful.  I broke out the mandoline and shaved that sucker into wafer-thin slices. I dressed the turnips with lime zest, lime juice, shallot, extra-virgin olive oil (pressed by our friends in Tuscany!), and some sea salt. Wow! The citrus was a nice contrast to the somewhat peppery turnip.

The cucumbers struggled at first, but they’re starting to take off.  The carrots are a big question mark, but I”m not too worried about them. I suspect the watermelon and cantaloupe aren’t get enough sun where I planted them, so they may not work. My biggest unknown is the cauliflower.  I planted two different types, and one of them started to flower a couple of weeks ago.  I was initially excited about that until I read that this means the plant is “going to seed” and will likely not produce cauliflower.  The other type of cauliflower is growing, but I just don’t think it will produce, now that it’s so damn hot. I’ll keep hoping, but I believe I planted too late in the season.  I should have switched the location of the melons with the cauliflower.

The weeds are a royal pain in the ass. I now know why people put down plastic for weed control. Live and learn, I guess.

I forgot to take decent photos, so you’ll have to live with the iPhone versions.

This is actually from 10 days ago. It's grown a LOT since then


My First Garden

April 28, 2011

I’ve never had a garden.  The only thing I’ve been able to grow is children, and the jury is still out on how good a job I’ve done with that.

Back in 2009, my wife gave me a garden for my birthday present, whereby she and a friend would transform a hill behind our house into a small, flat plot that gets enough sun over the course of a day to make a viable garden.  Due to some complexities of life, they didn’t actually build the garden until last fall, but it’s been ready for me this spring.  We have a couple of rain barrels nearby, and I was ready to go. We tilled it twice, adding some nice horse manure to the soil, and I started planting seeds a few weeks ago.

I planted turnips, lettuce, beets, carrots, lettuce and cauliflower.  Last Sunday, I planted 7 different heirloom tomato plants (thanks, Matt and Andrea!), a pepper plant, and from seeds, zucchini, cucumbers, watermelon and cantaloupe.

The first plants are doing remarkably well.  I’m amazed at how bright and beautiful the beet leaves and stems are, and the lacy carrot tops are great.  The turnips are thriving, as is the lettuce.  The cauliflower is coming along slowly, but I’m thinking it will do fine.

The weeds are a royal pain, of course, but I really am loving this process.  I check this garden in the morning.  I check it when I come home for lunch and then when I get home at the end of the day, like there might have been a magical growth spurt in the few hours I was gone.

I’m not much of a turnip eater, but I’m almost counting down the days before those suckers will be ready to pull, as they’ll be the first crop to mature.  I know I’ll get some greens before then for salad, when I thin out the crops, but I want the full vegetable.

I love this garden, and I can’t believe it’s taken me 47 years to get one.


Recipe Failures

April 27, 2011

Sometimes I come up with a great idea for a recipe, and it fails miserably.  This happened to me at lunch today, when I sneaked home to grab a bite.

We had a bunch of Easter ham in the fridge, a gift from a friend, and I was getting a bit tired of the regular old ham sandwiches I’ve had this week.  I wanted something different. Something I hadn’t had in ages.  Aha!  Ham salad!

Before you start gagging, I must confess that I’ve always loved ham salad — even when it’s the nasty grocery store deli case glop.  My love for ham salad came from my childhood, when my mother fed us a similar concoction that we called, “pickle and baloney” sandwiches.  My mom would buy a big hunk of bologna from the grocery store — not the pre-sliced stuff, but the solid, cylinder found in the deli case.  She’d break out the meat grinder and throw some sweet pickles into the mix.  It would be a course grind of bologna and pickles, and she’d pull it together with some Miracle Whip (no mayonnaise in my childhood home).  I loved that shit, and whenever I found a pickle and baloney sandwich in my lunch bag, I thought I was being treated to something damn special.

Over the years, my mother stopped making pickle and baloney, and she would buy ham salad from the deli instead.  It wasn’t the same as my old favorite, but I still liked the stuff.

And so, when I went home today, I was going to make some ham salad.  I mean, how hard is that — ham, pickles and mayo.  Maybe a little celery for some crunch.

But then I realized we had no sweet pickles.  Damn!  You have to have that sweet element to make ham salad work.

So, with no pickles, I had to come up with Plan B.  What is sweet that goes with ham?  I was thinking of what goes well with prosciutto, and of course, I thought of figs.  But it’s not fig season.  I do, however, have lots of fig preserves in the pantry.

THAT’S IT!  Ham and fig preserve salad!

So I minced up the ham, and finely chopped the fig preserves, added some mayo to bind it all.  A little salt and pepper.  Onto some bread it goes, and then I take a big bite.

Blech.

It’s sweet.  Too sweet.  What I forgot is that the pickles didn’t just add sweetness, they added acidity to balance out the sweetness and to cut the overall richness of the ham and mayo.  My sandwich didn’t have that.  I could have added some vinegar, but that wouldn’t have kept the acidity with the fruit, which I wanted.

I ate half the sandwich and gave up, despondently.

Hmm, I wonder how mango chutney would work?


Culinary Philanthropy

February 15, 2011

There is no industry that is more generous, more philanthropic, more community-focused than the restaurant industry.  I certainly don’t have any empirical data to support this, but when I see what goes on in the Triangle, with restaurants and chefs holding fundraisers, giving away gift certificates for silent auctions, and being an integral and visible part of our community’s fabric, I will stand behind this statement.  Most restaurants do not make a ton of money.  The labor costs, the food costs, glassware and flatware, and the rent all result in a fairly narrow profit margin for restaurateurs.  That’s one of the many reasons why restaurants fail so frequently.  The downturn of the economy has made it even tougher for these folks, and yet, they give, and give, and give some more.  Sometimes these charitable events cover the restaurant’s costs, but many times they do not.

Want some examples?

I’ll start with my good friend and rock star chef, Ashley Christensen.  Last night, she held a fundraiser for Cookies for Kids’ Cancer, a non-profit that struck a chord with her after she read about the fight of young “Prince Liam,” who passed away a couple of weeks ago after a two-year battle with cancer.  She not only donated all of the profits of the highly lucrative Valentine’s Day dinner to this charity, but she also got so many vendors to provide her wine, meat and produce for free.  On top of that, she got others to sponsor similar fundraising efforts last night, such as local brewer, Fullsteam.

But it doesn’t stop there with Ms. Christensen.  She recently held a fundraising barbecue dinner for the charity that’s near and dear to me, the Lucy Daniels Center.  She holds quarterly fundraising dinners for another organization where I’m a board member, the Southern Foodways Alliance.  This series of dinners has not only raised thousands of dollars for the SFA, but they have brought the Triangle food community together at the potluck dinners held at her home.  She’s donated gift certificates to a number of charities.  She truly gives her time, her goods, and yes, her money to support causes that are important to her.

Ashley’s restaurant, Poole’s Diner, is one of many participants in the Triangle Wine Experience to benefit the Frankie Lemmon Foundation.  The list of these participating restaurants can be found on this link, but this event is an unmitigated success, raising the majority of funds needed to keep the Frankie Lemmon Center in operation.  Put another way, the Frankie Lemmon Center may not survive without the support of the Triangle’s restaurant community.  Oh, one more thing.  Ashley Christensen is on the Board of the Frankie Lemmon Foundation.  Yup, she’s giving back in more ways than one.

Take a look at the Urban Food Group’s website, and you’ll see how important charitable giving is to it — they list the charities they support on their home page.  UFG donates all of the food for Band Together’s VIP area — that’s where all the high dollar donors hang out.  They also support The V Foundation, Safe Child, The March of Dimes and more.  Kevin and Stacey Jennings, the owners of UFG, get hounded to donate gift certificates for charitable events.  This is a common theme with restaurants (and wine merchants): everyone wants something from them.  Money.  Or goods.  Or their time.  And the more popular the restaurant, the more these restaurants get requests for help.

I am really barely scratching the surface about the philanthropic endeavors of these people.  They nourish our bodies, but they also nourish our souls.  Consider that when a restaurant helps to raise $50,000 over a course of a year, that may represent 10% of its revenues.  Think of another industry that has that type of impact on our community.  I’d love to say my law firm helped raise, directly or indirectly, an amount equal to 10% of our revenues, but that’s not the case.  Part of that is because no one has figured out a way to get people to buy $250 tickets to a black tie affair to receive legal advice, but that’s only part of the point.  A law firm — mine included — can give away lots of pro bono legal services, but I would be surprised if the most generous firms provide services that that has a value exceeding 1% of their revenues.

And this leads me to my final point: chefs are remarkably generous with their time.  If they don’t host a fundraiser at their restaurant, they’ll certainly donate their services to a worthwhile charity.  Look at this Sunday’s Evening With Master Chefs to support the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation.  Although the name may be a bit hyperbolic, the event features 9 local chefs cooking to raise money to support cystic fibrosis research.  This event has raised over a million dollars over the past 14 years, and hopefully the success will continue.  You might know some of these chefs, but for the most part, they’re not individuals whose name you’ll recognize right away.  But they are still donating their time, their labor, and their creativity to the community.  And we are all better off because of it.  So why don’t you go ahead and support them and their cause and get a ticket to this event?  If they can give back, so can you.

I’d love for you to provide comments where you list chefs or restaurants giving back to the community.  These folks don’t get the recognition they deserve, so let’s change that.


Proud Papa

January 27, 2011

This post is not about food — it’s about my two older kids, Everett and Ryan.  They were interviewed by public radio’s Dick Gordon on his show, “The Story.”  And that interview is being broadcast nationwide at 1 and 8 today.  Wow!  If you want to listen to it online, just click on the following link: http://thestory.org/archive/the_story_012711_b.mp3/view


Cake for Breakfast

January 25, 2011

I had cake for breakfast this morning.  A big-ass, honking slice of Ocracoke Fig Cake, made by my good friend Andrea Weigl.  She made it for last night’s Stir the Pot potluck dinner fundraiser to benefit the Southern Foodways Alliance, and there was nearly half a cake left when Andrea was about to depart.  So I cut off an extra large slice and took it home.  This morning, slightly groggy from staying up too late (and an amazing cocktail using radish bitters by Gary Crunkleton), I found myself not wanting my usual breakfast of dry cereal or oatmeal.  I wanted something easy, something sweet, and something to soothe the stomach.  I knew I had to run 4 miles at lunch time, so I could handle the calories.

And so, I ate the cake.  All of it.  And I’m glad I did.

It’s funny how it’s OK in our world to eat all kinds of sweet things for breakfast.  Breakfast cereals (at least the ones I really like) have always been sugar delivery devices.  We load tons of syrup on waffles and pancakes.  We’ll eat a donut or other pastry.  But we just don’t eat cake or pie for breakfast.  Well, we do, but always with a touch of guilt, as if we just did something horribly wrong.   Why is it merely decadent to eat a chocolate eclair for breakfast, but you’re being a bit over the top if you eat a piece of Boston Cream Pie?  An apple turnover is a standard breakfast treat, but not a piece of apple pie.

And when was the last time you saw a slice of cake, a piece of pie, ice cream or some pudding as an entree on a breakfast menu?  You don’t.  These items are desserts, and under official menu-writing and restaurant regulations, they can only be eaten after lunch and dinner.

Who are we fooling?

And so, I’m proud to have eaten cake for breakfast this morning.  Couldn’t have had anything better.


Bella Mia — Restaurant of the Year

January 21, 2011

Greg Cox of the News & Observer named Bella Mia his “Restaurant of the Year.” Now some people have asked, “A pizza joint?  Restaurant of the year? Seriously?”

My response: Most definitely.

Note that Cox did not say Bella Mia was the best restaurant of the year.  Nor did he give it his highest rating of 5 stars — it only received 4 stars.

So why does Bella Mia deserve to be called the Restaurant of the Year?  When one looks at the state of pizza in the Triangle a year ago, there are a lot of places that make a decent pie.  Some have wood-fired ovens, some use great ingredients, and you could always get a solid pizza.  But could you get a transcendent pizza?  No.

Bella Mia makes a transcendent pizza.  Their coal-fired oven hits temperatures of nearly 1,000 degrees.  The Guerra brothers, Louis and Anthony, use the finest ingredients and cook those pizzas with just the right amount of char.  There is no place in North Carolina that comes close to this play.  Some individuals may disagree, but the consensus is that Bella Mia is unlike any pizzeria that came before it in our area.  And because it is so much better than anyone else makes it worthy of the ROTY designation.

This is the only restaurant with which I am totally obsessed.  I’ve probably eaten there 30-40 times since they opened.  I’ve gotten to know the Guerra family fairly well, and when you think of how big of a chance they took, investing in beautiful tile-laden coal-fired ovens in the back of a Cary strip mall, I can’t help but smile over their success.  They dared to raise the bar for an iconic food like pizza, and they blew away the competition in doing so.

So congratulations to Bella Mia and the Guerra family.  And a big thumbs up to Greg Cox to have the balls to pick a pizza joint as his Restaurant of the Year.  Who’da thunk it?


The Purpose of Triangle Restaurant Week Revisited – A Mea Culpa

January 20, 2011

Last night, I received an email from one of my readers telling me she had posted the Triangle Restaurant Week menus on her blog and thought that I might be interested.  I responded as follows: “‘m not going to write about Restaurant Week this year, primarily because I don’t have the time, but also because I see places like _______ that are selling items that would be $25 on their regular menu for $30. This should be a week of bargains where the discounts entice people to try. Many places follow that credo, but many do not.”

This morning, I posted the following on Twitter: “It’s hard to support Triangle Restaurant Week when many places’ offerings are more expensive this week than at other times.”

I then got in a debate with Charlie Deal, the owner and chef of Jujube and Dos Perros about the purpose of Restaurant Week.  This debate carried over to the comments section of one of my blog posts from 2009, where I was arguing about the purpose of Restaurant Week altogether.  In my comments, I said that there were a number of restaurants that did the following: They created a menu for Restaurant Week containing an appetizer, entree and dessert for $30, and if you ordered those 3 items off their regular menu, the total would be less than $30.  I essentially called the practice fraudulent and chastised the organizers of Restaurant Week for allowing such a practice.

There’s only one problem with this argument.  I haven’t found a single restaurant that is actually doing this.

Now I found a number of restaurants that included some items from their regular menu on their RW menu, but the appetizers might be different.  For example, one restaurant (and I’m not naming names this year) has a soup on its RW menu that is not on the regular menu, but it’s very similar to what  is typically offered.  There is an entree and a dessert that are on both the regular and RW menus.  So, if you ordered a  soup off the regular menu, and the entree and dessert that are on both menus, you’d end up paying about $25.  The RW menu costs you $30 for two identical items and one that is very comparable.

That’s not appropriate, in my opinion, and there is a relatively small handful of restaurants doing exactly this.

However, most of the restaurants participating in Restaurant Week are trying to participate in good faith by following one of two paths: (1) their RW menu contains items that are quite different from their regular offerings (and usually represent a good deal); or (2) they’re offering things typically found on their regular menu, but at a discount.

Consequently, I was somewhat ill-informed, due to my own failure to carefully review the menus.  No one called me on this.  I discovered it myself and am letting folks know.  I hate to lose an argument, but I’m not afraid to admit when I’m wrong.


Bake Some Bread, Dammit!

January 18, 2011

Photo courtesy of Carri Thurman by way of Michael Ruhlman

Michael Ruhlman is running a series on bread baking over on his blog, trying to get folks to bake bread.  Of course, I’m a sucker for bread, having baked for nearly 20 years (including my mad scientist days when I was in law school and had multiple types of sourdough starter sitting in my kitchen).  When I saw one guest blogger post a story and recipe about ciabatta, I knew I had to make it.  First, I love ciabatta, with its rustic shape and straight-forward flavors.  Second, this recipe  comes from a bakery – Two Sisters —  in one of my favorite places in the world, Homer, Alaska (also home to the best pizza in Alaska, Finn’s).  This recipe is of the “no knead” variety, which I typically like because of its simplicity, but which I usually don’t love, because the full flavors you desire aren’t usually completely developed.  This recipe was a bit different — it was a two-stage process, where a dense starter with a minimal amount of yeast sits on the counter for at least 12 hours.  Then warm water is added, and you break up the starter into small clumps before adding more flour and yeast.  It’s a very wet dough, but it’s perfect for the rectangular “slipper” shape of a ciabatta.

And, quite frankly, it was the best bread I’ve ever made.  I’m already craving this bread and hope to make it again very soon.  Thanks to Carri Thurman of Two Sisters Bakery and to Michael Ruhlman for publishing her recipe (and allowing me to reprint it).  I’ve made a couple of minor changes, based on what I had in the house on Saturday.

CIABATTA
Recipe by Carri Thurman

To make the starter:

  • 1 tablespoon whole wheat flour
  • 1 tablespoon rye flour
  • 3 cups/14 ounces/400 grams bread flour (I used King Arthur, but unbleached all purpose flour is OK)
  • 1 cup/8 ounces/240 grams tepid water
  • ¼ teaspoon/1 gram active dry yeast dissolved in 1 cup warm water (set aside)
  1. Combine the flours and tepid water in a medium sized mixing bowl.
  2. Add 1 teaspoon of the yeasted water (that’s correct, just 1 teaspoon — discard the rest)
  3. Mix it into a firm ball, kneading it  just a bit.
  4. Cover the bowl and let it rest at room temperature for 12 to 24 hours

To make the dough:

  • 1 teaspoon/4 grams active dry yeast
  • 3 1/4 cups/15.5 ounces/430 bread flour (or unbleached all purpose flour)
  • 1 tablespoon/.4 ounces/11 grams salt
  1. Cut the dense starter dough into 6 or 8 pieces and put them in a large mixing bowl. Pour 2 cups/450 grams warm water over it and let sit a few minutes to soften. Break it up more with your hands.  Don’t worry about small-sized chunks.
  2. Add the additional flour, salt and yeast,  and using a wooden spoon, beat the mixture together well. It will resemble a stiff pancake batter and appear quite rough, but still don’t worry about those chunks of  starter dough. Let the dough sit, covered lightly, in a warm spot.
  3. Come back to it every 20 minutes or so and pull the dough away from the sides of the bowl and into the center using a rubber spatula or dough scraper. Do this four times. After the last turn you will be able to see that the dough has become smoother and more uniform, now cover and let it finish rising for another hour and a half. Total rising time for this period should be 2 ½ to 3 hours.
  4. Scrape the dough out onto a well floured surface and fold together lightly. It will be fairly wet. Divide into two equal loaves and either pull apart into a flat focaccia style or fold the two ends into the center, like folding a letter, to form rectangular mound.
  5. Place loaves on parchment paper lined sheet pan side by side for final rise, 30 to 45 minutes.
  6. Prep your oven by preheating to 450 degrees F/230 degree C and putting a baking stone or a cast iron griddle on the middle rack.  If no stones/griddles, just back on the sheet pan.
  7. When ready to bake, lightly flour the tips of your fingers and deflate some of the bubbles; don’t worry, it’ll bounce back in the oven.
  8. Cut the parchment paper between the loaves to separate, and slide each loaf right onto to the stone or griddle. Or keep it on the pan.  Whatever.  Spray the loaves and oven with some water from a spray bottle to create some steam.  Bake until dark-ish golden brown and internal temp reaches 200 degrees F, approximately 25 minutes.

Makes two 1-3/4 pound ciabattas



Leave of Absence

January 10, 2011

As you can tell by my lack of posting, I’m currently on a leave of absence from the blog.  Some of you might say I’ve been on a leave of absence for a year, but right now, I just can’t find the time to blog in a way that is meaningful.  I’ll still post something from time to time about some local news (and there’s 3 new restaurants that I want to write about), but I’ll hold off for now.  Thanks for sticking with me, and at some point in the not-too-distant-future, I’ll either get back to my 2 to 3 posts a week, or I may give it up altogether.  I’m hoping for the former.

Dean


Adult Gingerbread for the Holidays

December 24, 2010

I love gingerbread.  It’s always been one of my favorite flavors, particularly when served warm with some soft cream.  It represents the essence of winter comfort food, not too sweet, with depths of flavor beyond most other desserts.  But that depth was sometimes illusory, as it was just a smack of molasses paired with a touch of ground ginger.  This holiday season, I wanted more flavor.  I wanted more complexity.  I wanted a goddamned adult version of gingerbread.

Thank goodness for Karen Barker.

Barker, the co-owner and Beard Award winning pastry chef of Durham’s Magnolia Grill, has the hand’s-down-bet-the-farm-you-can-take-it-to-the-bank-absolute-best gingerbread you’ll ever taste.  This isn’t one of those pale cakes that you whip together in 2 minutes that will still taste just fine.  This is a dark, foreboding-looking gingerbread, with three types of ginger, coffee, black pepper, and dry mustard in it.  It’s a gingerbread that has some kick, without being piquant.  It’s not a dense cake, but it’s really rich.  And when paired with something somewhat sweet, like Barker’s Hot Buttered Rum Raisin Sauce and some vanilla-nutmeg ice cream — oh, my.

And that’s what my guests were saying last week when I concluded a 6 course dinner party last weekend.  This dish is a winner.  This gingerbread means business.  And hell, yeah, I made three of those cakes, so there was plenty for breakfast the rest of the week.

Not-Afraid-of-Flavor Gingerbread

  • 2-1/2 cups flour
  • 1/2 tsp cinnamon
  • 1/2 tsp ground cloves
  • 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 tsp ground ginger
  • 1/4 tsp dry mustard
  • 1/2 tsp kosher salt
  • 8 Tbsp (1 stick) unsalted butter
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2 Tbsp peeled, very finely chopped fresh ginger
  • 2 Tbsp finely chopped crystallized ginger
  • 2 eggs
  • 1/4 cup canola or vegetable oil
  • 1 cup molasses
  • 1/2 cup brewed coffee
  • 2 tsp baking soda
  • 1/2 cup orange juice

Preheat oven to 350 F. Butter a 9X9X2 square pan or a 10X2 round pan. Line bottom with parchment paper, and butter the paper.

Whisk together the flour, cinnamon, cloves, black pepper, ground ginger, dry mustard and salt.

With a mixer, cream butter with the sugar and the fresh and crystallized ginger. Add eggs one at a time to blend.

Slowly add the oil and then the molasses. Mix to blend.

Gradually add the flour and spice mix until just barely blended, scraping bowl as needed.

Heat up the coffee in a small saucepan to a simmer, add the baking soda, stir, and add to the mix. Add the orange juice until fully combined. The batter will be thinner than what you would expect.

Pour batter into the pan and bake at 350F for about an hour and a toothpick comes out clean. Cool in pan. Invert onto parchment paper, and then flip back over onto serving platter. Eat. And then eat some more.

From “Sweet stuff: Karen Barker’s American Desserts” by Karen Barker, University of North Carolina Press


Restaurant Review Roulette: ONE Restaurant

December 23, 2010

Shane Ingram has firmly established himself as one of the top chefs in the Triangle, as his Four Square in Durham has been on Greg Cox’s top 25 lists for years.  It’s been over ten years since Ingram opened Four Square, and this past summer, he opened a new place — ONE Restaurant (or, as they like to do on the website, [ONE] Restaurant — not sure if they get a penalty for excessive use of brackets).

Here’s what I know about [ONE]: It’s in Chapel Hill’s Meadowmont Village.  It appears to have an open kitchen.  Its price points are somewhat high for what seems to be a relatively casual place, but they’re not outrageous by any means.  The menu does not appear to be overly ambitious on first glance, but then looking at the accompaniments to the main dishes, you start to think that the menu is intentionally understated.  And then you remember that this is Shane Ingram’s place.  You know it will be pretty damn good.

And so, Greg Cox will be reviewing ONE tomorrow.  Interestingly, Cox gave Four Square only 4 stars last year, hitting it hard for some service issues, but praising the food.  The Yelpster crowd is very mixed on its assessment of ONE.  I don’t really rely on the opinions of Yelp’s reviewers, but there was enough dissent here to throw me for a loop.   I really think Greg will like ONE, giving it at 4 stars.  I doubt, however, that he will be willing to give it that extra half star, and I wonder if he’ll dock it half a star.  That’s the difficulty of this prognostication business.   So I’m going to go with 4 stars, but I’ll be hedging a half star on either side.

Here are the odds.

5 stars — 7 to 1

4.5 stars – 3 to 2

4 stars —  1 to 1

3.5 stars — 3 to 2

3 stars — 4 to 1

2.5 stars — 7 to 1

2 stars — 14 to 1

1.5 stars — 20 to 1

1 star — 50 to 1

Place your bets, and let me know what you thought of [{(ONE)}].

*******************************

Edit, December 24, 2010 — It’s a 4 star review for ONE. [REALLY].


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