November 18, 2011
Wow. A new chef-driven restaurant is about to open in Raleigh, and I’m really excited by it. Mandolin is the name of Chef Sean Fowler’s establishment, located at the intersection of Oberlin and Fairview in Raleigh’s Five Points neighborhood.
This is what I know about Mandolin: nothing. Well, I’ve seen their menu, which is Southern-inspired. I’ve looked at their website. But I know nothing about Sean Fowler. Or any of the staff. Even when a menu looks promising, as this one does, I reserve judgment until I taste the food. But for some reason, I just like the vibe that these folks have created. I really WANT to taste this food. And based on the Open Table reservation system, it looks like they open next Tuesday.
Raleigh needs more of these type of restaurants. I can’t wait to try it.
2 Comments | 
chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: Mandolin, Sean Fowler | 
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Posted by Varmint
September 13, 2011
It seems that VarmintBites has turned into nothing more than a means to publicize fundraisers, but when one is on the Board of Directors of two different organizations having food-related fundraisers, well, you can understand.
So, this Sunday and Monday we’re having another Stir the Pot, those fantastic events hosted by Ashley Christensen to benefit the Southern Foodways Alliance. I’ve attended most of these events, and they’re a ton of fun, but this week is different.
This time, the guest chef of Stir the Pot is John Fleer, Rock Star. Yes, that’s the term used by John T. Edge, the Executive Director of the SFA. That’s a term I’ve heard Ashley Christensen use for him. Could it be because he was the celebrated chef of Blackberry Farm, one of the best inns in the country? Or that he left Blackberry at the height of his career and notoriety so he could do something that allowed him to spend more time with his familly? Like work at Sunburst Trout or take over as chef at Canyon Kitchen in Cashiers, NC.
Yes, those are good reasons to call him a rock star (and I’ve had his food — it’s rock star quality). But the real reason to call him a rock star is that he acts like one, and I have pictures to prove it. It’s been 4 years since I took these photos, and at the time I said they wouldn’t see the light of day, but I’m changing my tune. I’ve got pictures of Fleer chugging Southern Comfort. I’ve got pictures of him stealing a kid’s bicycle (OK, he just rode a bike laying on the street). No, I don’t have a photo of him passed out, but I can try.
The problem is, you don’t get to see these photos unless you attend one of the Stir the Pot events. The fancy, five-course dinner with wine pairings prepared by Chef Fleer is at Poole’s Diner on Sunday night at 7 PM. The Monday evening potluck is at Ashley Christensen’s home (Brunswick stew, beer by Foothills Brewing, a drink by Fox Liquor bar, and wine donated by Eliza Kraft Olander. The Sunday dinner is $150 per person plus tax and tip, whereas the Monday potluck is $35 per person plus a side dish or dessert that celebrates your sense of place, wherever that may be.
Reservations are required and space is limited. Call Poole’s Diner at 919-832-4477 to reserve your spot for either or both nights.
So go ahead and sign up. And maybe these photos will end up on display.
1 Comment | Best Of the Triangle, chefs, Events, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: sfa, Southern Foodways Alliance, Stir the Pot; John Fleer | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
August 12, 2011
OK, admit it. Ashley Christensen is a rock star. Not just Raleigh’s rock star, but she has national attention now. We’re just lucky to have her here.
So when Ashley Christensen supports a cause, like she does with her Stir the Pot events for the Southern Foodways Alliance, it must mean a lot to her. And because I’m a member of the board of directors of the SFA, well, dammit, I want you to join Ashley, me and a bunch of other great people this Sunday and Monday.
If you want some kick-ass, high end food and wine, get a reservation for Sunday’s special dinner at Poole’s featuring chef Ed Lee of Louisville, KY’s 610 Magnolia. This guy can flat out cook, so this will be an incredible dinner (with fantastic wine, of course). The dinner will cost you $150 plus tax and tip, but the money goes to the SFA’s documentary film initiatives.
But in this economy, I understand if you can’t swing a big ticket item like Sunday’s dinner. So just plan on joining us at Ashley’s lovely home Monday evening for the “Industry Potluck.” Make something tasty, and then bring it and a check for $35, and you’ll get to rub elbows with a lot of local food celebs, including chefs and food writers.
So, what’s your excuse? Pick up the phone and call Poole’s at 832-4477 to make your reservations. See you soon!
3 Comments | chefs, Events, Raleigh | Tagged: Ashley Christensen, Ed Lee, Southern Foodways Alliance, Stir the Pot | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
June 9, 2011
Ashley Christensen, chef and owner of Raleigh’s Poole’s Diner, will be on Food Network’s “Iron Chef America” on July 24 at 10 PM. Christensen chose Iron Chef Bobby Flay as her competition, which was recorded some time now. Although some news leaked out that Ashley was on Iron Chef, the details have been highly confidential, including the outcome. I believe she is the second local chef to appear on the show, as Walter Royal of the Angus Barn beat Cat Cora in 2007 several years ago.
6 Comments | chefs, Events, General, Raleigh | Tagged: Ashley Christensen, Bobby Flay, Iron Chef America, Poole's Diner | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
November 17, 2010
Disclaimer: I’m mailing this one in, folks. I took my daughter to Asheville last night to see Elton John, and she insisted on getting back in time for her 8 AM class today. So after a 3-1/2 hour show, we stopped for the night in Hickory at 1 AM, got up at 4:50 AM and made it to Raleigh at 7:40. I’m damn tired.
So, this week’s review is of a restaurant that I should have known about — it’s in Raleigh’s North Hills — but I hadn’t heard a thing about it. It’s an “Asian Fusion” place (their term, not mine), called Spring Rolls. It looks to be fairly fancy. It tries to be lots of different things. I’m not even taking the time to check out Yelp or Chowhound. I only looked at two pages of the menu. And I’m guessing 3.5 stars.
Here are the odds:
5 stars — 25 to 1
4.5 stars – 7 to 1
4 stars — 3 to 1
3.5 stars — 3 to 2
3 stars — 2 to 1
2.5 stars — 5 to 2
2 stars — 4 to 1
1.5 stars — 8 to 1
1 star — 27 to 1
I don’t have a clue, so help me out this week. Is it good? Is it just another “OK” fusion joint? And how many stars do you think it’ll get.
And I promise I’ll write some more soon. I’ve got lots of items in the works, but I’ve been too damn busy to write anything. Thanks for hanging in with me.
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Edit, November 19, 2010: Spring Rolls gets a 3-star review from the N&O. I should have done some research.
2 Comments | Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette | Tagged: Greg Cox, News & Observer, North Hills, Restaurant Review Roulette, Spring Rolls | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
November 4, 2010
As I wrote earlier, Ashley Christensen of Poole’s Diner is preparing a very special barbecue dinner to benefit the Lucy Daniels Center. This won’t be any ordinary barbecue, however.
Ashley cures the pork for 3 days, with a special rub of salt and other herbs and spices. This turns the pork into the most amazingly succulent swine you’ll ever taste. But then she slowly smokes that pig over nut wood (typically pecan) for hours and hours, until a nice, crust is formed and the meat is redolent of that sweet smoke. Of course, she has her own take on sauce.
You know it will be good. No, you know it will be the best damn barbecue you’ve ever had.
But there will also be beer. And we’re talking about beer that was created to be served with barbecue: Fullsteam’s Hogwash, which is a hickory-smoked porter. We’ll also be serving the Fullsteam Carolina Common, a lighter beer for those who prefer it that way.
And as far as side dishes are concerned, you won’t be disappointed. Don’t expect some limp green beens or dried out corn sticks. There will even be a special Brunswick Stew. And banana pudding so good, it’ll make you want to smack someone. I mean, kiss them.
We will have some of Ashley’s roast chicken for those who don’t eat pork. And if you’ve had that chicken before, it’s the best. Anywhere.
But I need you to buy tickets to this dinner. Yeah, it’s pricey, but it’s for an amazing cause. The Lucy Daniels Center is the Triangle’s leading non-profit provider of children’s mental health services. Why is this a big deal? Because in this economy, with so many people unemployed, it’s harder than ever on children. And parents don’t have the resources to pay for the help their kids’ needs. The Lucy Daniels Center provides some sort of financial assistance to 90% of the families who receive care. A large portion of those families receive care for free.
So I ask you — No, I BEG you — please go to the Lucy Daniels website and buy tickets to the dinner. Or call Patti Wilt at 919.459.1611. You’ll have a great meal. You’ll enjoy the beer. And you’ll know you’ve done something very special for families in need. And there’s nothing better than that feeling. Not even the banana pudding.
Buy tickets thru PayPal here: http://www.lucydanielscenter.org/page/pooles-diner-to-host-q-for-kids-fundraiser-november-7
Or call Patti Wilt at the Lucy Daniels Center at 919.459.1611
Adults are $75, kids under 14 are $35, and all but $25 is tax deductible. Sorry, no beer for the kids.
1 Comment | Best Of the Triangle, chefs, Events, Family and Food, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: Ashley Christensen, Barbecue, Fullsteam, Lucy Daniels Center, North Carolina Barbecue, Poole's Diner | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
October 20, 2010
I know this restaurant! Hurray, hurrah, hurrooh! Greg Cox is reviewing David’s Dumpling & Noodle Bar, the new outpost of iconic Raleigh chef David Mao. I actually took my family to eat there several weeks ago and liked it. The dumplings are top-notch, the noodles are good (but not great). The other Asian-American fare is as good as it needs to be. It’s certainly not great, but it’s very dependable.
As I look into my crystal ball, I see a favorable review for David’s D&NB. But my vision is cloudy. Service isn’t as great as it should be. Some of the dishes aren’t just good enough. A number is appearing. Is it a 4? Yes, it’s a 4. But wait, I also see a 3. What does this all mean? Ahhh, I get it. This is a 3.5 star review. That’s your lucky number.
Here are this week’s odds:
5 stars — 30 to 1
4.5 stars – 7 to 1
4 stars — 2 to 1
3.5 stars — 7 to 6
3 stars — 2 to 1
2.5 stars — 5 to 1
2 stars — 11 to 1
1.5 stars — 19 to 1
1 star — 50 to 1
What did you think of DD&NB? How many stars will it get? And did the big photos of David Mao freak you out as much as they did for me???
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Edit, October 22, 2010 — Looks like its a 3-star review for DD&NB. I couldn’t really tell why it got this rating and where points may have been deducted. Funny how this review game is.
4 Comments | chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: David Mao, David's Dumpling & Noodle Bar, Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
October 7, 2010
Sorry for the delay, folks. It’s primarily because I’m swamped at work, but it’s also because my heart’s not in it this week. Why? Because Greg Cox is reviewing Nantucket Grill. Yes, he previously reviewed Nantucket Grill a few years ago, giving it 3 out of 4 stars, but this is the North Raleigh location! When there are so few new restaurants in the Triangle that Greg Cox is forced to review a second location of an existing establishment (and there are now 4 Nantucket Grills), I feel sorry for the guy.
I haven’t looked up one thing about this place, other than the website and menu. It’s in North Raleigh. That’s the extent of my knowledge.
And I’m guessing 2.5 stars. What’s your guess?
Here are the odds:
5 stars — 926 to 1
4.5 stars – 54 to 1
4 stars — 7 to 1
3.5 stars — 3 to 1
3 stars — 3 to 2
2.5 stars — 4 to 3
2 stars — 5 to 2
1.5 stars — 6 to 1
1 star — 22 to 1
Have you taken a trip to Nantucket? How many stars does it merit?
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Edit, October 8, 2010: As predicted guessed, Greg Cox gave Nantucket Grill 2.5 stars. I really had no clue, but come on, how hard is this??
3 Comments | General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette | Tagged: Greg Cox, Nantucket Grill, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
September 22, 2010
I hadn’t really wanted to go to Capital Club 16 in downtown Raleigh, purely because I nonsensically dismissed the place for its name. It was far too close to the “Capital City Club,” and, quite frankly, I don’t like any operation with the word “Club” in it. As I said, it’s nonsensical. And now I’m starting to think that I’ve been missing out on a really good place. A somewhat upscale diner that features some German influences in its menu.
Greg Cox is reviewing this place on Friday, and I suspect he just may like it. Just like I suspect that I would like it, too. The chef, Jake Wolf, appears to have a sense of what would work in downtown, part hipster, part style, and lots of sensible menu choices. The prices are incredibly reasonable, too.
Cox generally won’t give more than four stars to casual dining places, unless it has something “extra” to offer in the way of food, like Poole’s Diner (and speaking of that cap, it’ll be interesting to see what he gives Bella Mia in next week’s review, which is easily the best pizza in the area, if not the state). So I suspect that he’ll give this place at least 3.5 stars, but I’m thinking that 4 stars would be the better bet. We shall see.
Here are this week’s odds:
5 stars — 16 to 1
4.5 stars – 8 to 1
4 stars — 4 to 5
3.5 stars — 8 to 5
3 stars — 3 to 1
2.5 stars — 8 to 1
2 stars — 11 to 1
1.5 stars — 23 to 1
1 star — 39 to 1
I’m sure many of you have been to Capital Club 16. So how was it? And how many stars do you think it will receive?
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Edit, September 24, 2010: Greg Cox gave Capital Club 16 a solid 3.5 star rating.
4 Comments | chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Capital Club 16, Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
September 14, 2010
I received an email the other day that included a press release about a “celebrity chef” event in Charlotte. I looked at the list of chefs participating and didn’t recognize a single one. Now I have to admit that I don’t watch the Food Network all that much, and I couldn’t name a lot of the personalities that they on their programs, but it’s clear that television, and the Food Network in particular, has changed the public’s perception of all chefs. No longer does a chef have to have a big TV deal, or even a cookbook, to be a celebrity. The only requirement, it appears from this Charlotte event, is that the chef be, well, a chef. Now I’m as caught up in chef worship as much as the next person, but we really need to remember that these chefs are just hard-working folks. Hell, most of the chefs who are on television regularly and can truly be considered CELEBRITIES (Bayless, Batali, Keller, Pepin) are not that much different than you, me or anyone else. And when we talk about the local chefs who might be considered “stars,” well, once again, they’re for the most part just plain folk. Ben and Karen Barker of Durham’s Magnolia Grill have each won a James Beard Award, but they’re as humble and nice as can be. Sure they have egos, but the manifestation of that ego is what’s on the plate. They bust their butt to make sure that what we eat is top-notch, night after night. Read the rest of this entry »
2 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: Arthur Gordon, chefs, David Mao, David's Dumpling and Noodle House, Duck and Dumpling, Irregardless Cafe, Mandarin House, Raleigh, Restaurants | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
August 25, 2010
This week’s review is of Flights, the restaurant in the Marriott-owned North Hills-based Renaissance Hotel. So, it’s a Marriott, eh? They’re not really known for putting top notch restaurants in their hotels. But what’s this on the menu? Pork from Cane Creek Farms? Locally sourced produce? Goat cheese from Elodie Farms? So, what you’re saying is that this Marriott doesn’t get all their stuff from US Foods??? Hmmm, maybe this restaurant won’t suck.
I have an inherent bias against hotel restaurants, but I suspect this place just might be better than it needs to be, and decent enough to hold its own versus the other places in North Hills. With that, I’m thinking this is a 3.5 to 4 star restaurant, and my hunch is that it’s going to be the higher rating. We shall see on Friday. Here are this week’s odds:
5 stars — 35 to 1
4.5 stars – 7 to 1
4 stars — 2 to 1
3.5 stars — 5 to 2
3 stars — 5 to 1
2.5 stars — 6 to 1
2 stars — 9 to 1
1.5 stars — 15 to 1
1 star — 25 to 1
Do I have a single reader who has made it to Flights? And, be honest, how many of you never even heard of this place?
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Edit: Flights soared to a 4 star rating, with Greg Cox using every airplane metaphor possible in his review. As I would have done, too.
11 Comments | General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Greg Cox, Marriott, News & Observer, North Hills, Raleigh, Renaissance Hotel, Restaurant Review Roulette | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
August 5, 2010
I had the pleasure of attending the Stir the Pot event at Poole’s Diner a couple of months ago that featured the cooking of Charleston chef and wonderboy Sean Brock, and what a great event it was. It was great because Brock and Chef Ashley Christensen put together some fantastic food, mixing the traditional and the contemporary. It was great because Matt Fern hooked us up with some incredible wines. It was great because I got to eat and mingle with chefs, food writers, and folks like me who love food.
But it was truly great because this event supported the Southern Foodways Alliance. I’ve written about the SFA a number of times, but this is an organization that truly understands what food is all about. It isn’t about adding notches to your restaurant belt, showing how many of the hottest places you eaten. It isn’t about the hottest or latest trend. What it is about is the role of food in our society. It’s about the camaraderie of individuals who care about food. It’s about what food — and particularly Southern food — means to me and you and anyone else who cares about what he or she eats. I’ve made dozens of great friends through the SFA. I know so much more about food because of the SFA. I’ve convinced chefs that they need to get involved in the SFA, and once they did, they haven’t stopped thanking me. And even though I’m not a chef or food writer or TV producer, I’m still accepted by those who are. It’s a non-judgmental organization.
And this Sunday and Monday, you can help the SFA while having some incredible food. Ashley Christensen and Poole’s Diner will be having their second round of Stir the Pot, featuring the talents of Alex Raij and Eder Montero, the wife and husband owners of New York’s Txikito, the city’s only Basque restaurant and El Quinto Pino, the city’s best tapas place. These are big-time New York chefs, and just because you haven’t seen their faces all over the Food Network, they’re the real deal. And we’re lucky to have them.
On Sunday, Poole’s will be hosting Raij and Montero for a wonderful dinner, which will start at 6:30 PM with lots of sparkling wine (Spanish, I’m betting) and creative Spanish finger foods. This will be followed by a 5 course dinner, with wine accompaniments. The cost is $150, plus tax and tip. I know our dining budgets are tight these days, but remember, you’re also supporting an incredible organization with the SFA. You’ll also get to have discussions with the chefs.
On Monday evening from 6-9, Ashley Christensen will be hosting a potluck at her home. The potluck is for everyone–restaurant industry folks, writers, beverage enthusiasts, home cooks and people who with a general love for food and its history. A main course of black cherry smoked beer can-roasted chicken and wine to match will be provided, along with some fantastic beer from my buddies at Fullsteam Brewery and signature cocktails from the mixologists at Foundation. Just bring a dish for the potluck (I’m bringing some vodka that has been steeping in blackberries for 2 months) and a check for $35 payable to the Southern Foodways Alliance.
Please call Poole’s at 832-477 to make reservations for either or both of these great events.
Leave a Comment » | chefs, Events, Raleigh, Restaurants, Southern Food Culture | Tagged: Alex Raij, Ashley Christensen, Eder Montero, El Quinto Pino, Matt Fern, Poole's Diner, sfa, Southern Foodways Alliance, Stir the Pot, Txikito | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
August 4, 2010
Did you miss me? Sorry, but I’ve been on vacation and really haven’t even thought about writing. My timing was pretty good, however, as the N&O didn’t have a review last week, with it being the fifth Friday of the month.
This week’s contestant is Market Restaurant, the hip place in Raleigh’s Mordecai neighborhood that focuses on local, organic fare. This place has been favorably reviewed by Urbanspoon reviewers and the omnipresent Yelpsters. It has a chef who is committed to things that foodies (and food critics) like: flavorful, local ingredients, simply prepared, well-presented. It’s in a cool neighborhood. And the prices are reasonable, with the most expensive thing on the menu (except for the fish of the day) will run you 16 bucks.
Based on these considerations, I expect Market to get a decent review from Greg Cox. It’s his type of place, and the on-line reviews have been pretty favorable. Once again, this is a place I haven’t visited yet (do you get the sense that I really don’t get out all that much?), but I’m feeling that Market will garner 4 stars.
Here are the odds:
5 stars — 25 to 1
4.5 stars – 2 to 1
4 stars — 1 to 1
3.5 stars — 5 to 2
3 stars — 4 to 1
2.5 stars — 7 to 1
2 stars — 13 to 1
1.5 stars — 27 to 1
1 star — 75 to 1
How many stars would you give Market? And how many stars will Greg Cox give it?
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Edit, August 6, 2010 – Nailed this one! Market got 4 stars from Greg Cox in today’s N&O, with Cox praising the seafood options in particular.
17 Comments | Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Greg Cox, Market Restaurant, Raleigh, Restaurant Review Roulette, Restaurants | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
July 7, 2010
Greg Cox reviews Cameron Village’s new Southwestern/Mexican joint, Cantina 18, in this Friday’s News & Observer. Cantina 18 is the creation of Jason Smith, the chef of 18 Seaboard, and it has received mixed reviews from my friends and colleagues. Those who are well-versed in authentic Mexican food don’t care for it all that much, whereas folks who enjoy a burrito from Moe’s recognize that this is a step up from that chain-restaurant fare. Some people have complained about the prices (particularly when compared to a taqueria), but this is more uspscale, and the tacos come with rice, beans and slaw. I’ve yet to eat there, simply because the place had so many initial problems that needed to be resolved. I’m now ready to give it a try, and I suspect I’ll like it just fine.
But that’s not all that relevant or important, as what we really are concerned with is how many stars Greg Cox will give the place. I suspect he’ll like the fact that this is not a typical cookie-cutter Mexican restaurant, that Jason Smith took some chances. I think he’ll like the fact that it’s in Cameron Village, a place that needs some originality with its restaurants. I think he’ll like the food, too. But I don’t think he’ll love it. To me, this is a 3.5 star place all the way. We shall see.
Here are the odds:
5 stars — 99 to 1
4.5 stars – 13 to 1
4 stars — 3 to 1
3.5 stars — 5 to 3
3 stars — 4 to 1
2.5 stars — 7 to 1
2 stars — 11 to 1
1.5 stars — 21 to 1
1 star — 33 to 1
I’m hedging my bets here intentionally. This is a place where Greg Cox could have had a great experience, or a lousy one. How many stars do you think it deserves?
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Edit, July 9, 2010 — It’s a 3 star review for Cantina 18, with Greg Cox saying there’s been a marked improvement over the preceding visit each of the three times he’s visited.
2 Comments | chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: 18 Seaboard, Cameron Village, Cantina 18, Greg Cox, Jason Smith, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
June 16, 2010
This week’s review is an Indian restaurant about which I know nothing: Zayka Indian Cuisine. Might be good, might be not so good. The teaser in today’s N&O talked about “hits and misses.” That’s usually a bad sign. So I’m just going to cut to the chase and say this will be a 2 to 2.5 star review. How do I know that? I don’t. And I have not done one bit of research. I’m just guessing now.
5 stars — 500 to 1
4.5 stars –450 to 1
4 stars — 40 to 1
3.5 stars — 7 to 1
3 stars — 5 to 1
2.5 stars — 2 to 1
2 stars — 7 to 2
1.5 stars — 8 to 1
1 star — 19 to 1
Tell me about Zayka, please. Tell me that I’m wrong and it’s great. Please!
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(June 18, 2010 Edit) — He liked it. He really, really liked it. OK, so Greg Cox gave it 3 stars, but that’s more than what I thought he’d do, so congratulations to Zayka!
3 Comments | General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Greg Cox, News & Observer, Raleigh, Restaurant Review Roulette, Zayka Indian Cuisine | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
May 19, 2010
Sorry for missing last week’s review, but after being out of town, I just couldn’t bring myself to predict how many stars a Calabash-style seafood eatery was going to get. This week is another story, however, as Greg Cox is reviewing Raleigh’s bu•ku, the restaurant with a bullet point in its name. I’ve written about bu•ku, and many of you know I’m a big fan of bu•ku’s chef, William D’Auvray. He’s one of the most creative chefs in the Triangle, and I considered the food at his last restaurant, Fins, to be nonpareil.
bu•ku is a different restaurant, however. It’s not a quiet place, and that is intentional. bu•ku is designed to be a place for crowds to get together, order a bunch of small plates of the so-called “street food” bu•ku offers, and have a good time. Some critics argue that bu•ku does not serve genuine street food, that D’Auvray’s offerings are nothing like what they had on the streets of India, the Philippines, or Mexico. My brilliant, intellectual response to those claims is, “No duh!” Of course it’s not the same — you’re getting this food in a Raleigh office tower from a kitchen that could hardly be compared to anything found on the streets of Bangkok. This is William D’Auvray’s interpretation of street food, and it’s really quite good.
Greg Cox also like’s D’Auvray’s cooking, as he perennially listed Fins as one of his top restaurants in the Triangle, naming it his restaurant of the year not long ago. I also know Cox loves to write about cuisines from far-away places, and I’ve discovered several gems from his N&O reviews. Do I think Cox will give bu•ku the same 5 stars that he gave Fins? Absolutely not. Do I think he will like it? Yes, I do. I would be stunned if he gives it anything less than 4 stars. Adding another half star might be a stretch, particularly in light of the fact that bu•ku isn’t really trying to be that ultimate, fine-dining establishment that Fins was. But who knows, Cox has given 4.5 stars to other places that are quite comparable to bu•ku. This will be an interesting review, but I’m hedging my bets by listing co-favorites this week.
5 stars — 5 to 1
4.5 stars – 3 to 2
4 stars — 3 to 2
3.5 stars — 7 to 1
3 stars — 10 to 1
2.5 stars — 30 to 1
2 stars — 75 to 1
1.5 stars — 250 to 1
1 star — 500 to 1
How many stars do you think bu•ku will get, and what are your thoughts on this restaurant?
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(Edit May 21, 2010) – Congratulations to bu•ku, as Greg Cox awarded it 4.5 stars. After having lunch there on Wednesday, those are well-deserved stars. This is a place where you can get in and out for less than 10 bucks if you want, or you can have a big-time night. And it will all taste great.
3 Comments | chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: bu•ku, buku, Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette, William D'Auvray | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
May 4, 2010
I got to know Chef Rob Bland back when he was opening Coquette, Urban Food Group’s French brasserie in North Hills. I learned that Chef Bland was passionate about his food — almost to a fault, occasionally losing sight of the fact that sometimes the customer may not always be right, but the customer is always paying. His passion also created tension in the kitchen, too, but that’s not to be unexpected for a new, high volume restaurant with perfectionist owners. But the thing is, Bland could flat out cook, and he was completely committed to his craft. Stocks were made from scratch, ingredients were top notch, and sauces were classics.
Bland left Coquette a few months ago, and I was wondering what he was doing. Turns out he decided to help out at Cafe Helios, which I thought was a bit odd, as it was my impression that Helios was just a coffee shop with some sandwiches. Well, things are about to change, as Helios is getting its own commercial range and proper ventilation, and Bland is rolling out a full menu of new offerings — including real dinner items. The spring menu is filled with very reasonably priced small plate offerings, and the flavor combinations look quite impressive, such as an English pea ragout with bacon, white wine, oregano and mint or piquillo peppers stuffed with a salt cod and potato puree.
Bland has also started doing First Friday barbecues outside of Helios, which is going to be a hit over the summer. Unfortunately, with the change in the kitchen, there’s no barbecue this week, so we’ll have to wait until June. But we won’t have to wait for the new menu, which should go live some time next week.
Spring Menu
5 Comments | chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: Cafe Helios, Glenwood South, Raleigh, Restaurants, Rob Bland | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
April 21, 2010
This week’s restaurant review by Greg Cox of the N&O looks at The Diner, the retro-styled burger and shake place on Raleigh’s Glenwood South. I ate at The Diner a few weeks ago, and it will be the last time I go there. Burgers are average at best. Milkshakes are fairly small for the price. But the kiss of death came from the onion rings, which were, without any doubt, the greasiest things I have ever sampled. When I bit into one, at least a teaspoon of oil rushed out. My kids started having fun with them, putting them on a plate and pressing them with a fork to see how big of an oil slick they could create. It may have been an anomaly, but combined with the ultra slow service, I think not.
Anyhow, I suspect Greg Cox’s experience was similar, as the teaser in today’s N&O refers to “hits and misses.” That’s why my guess is for 2 stars. A place with this price point, with mediocre food and service typically gets 2 stars.
Here are this week’s odds:
5 stars — one google to 1
4.5 stars – one bazillion to 1
4 stars — one million to 1
3.5 stars — 20 to 1
3 stars — 5 to 1
2.5 stars — 25 or 6 to 4
2 stars — 1 to 1
1 to 1.5 stars — 4 to 1
Have you been to The Diner? How many stars does it deserve?
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(Edit April 23, 2010) Ouch. A 1.5 star review for The Diner in today’s N&O. The review itself doesn’t sound like a 1.5 star one, but I think Greg Cox was trying to be nice and focus on the positives. I wonder if he’d ever write a review as acerbic as the one Sam Sifton of the NY Times wrote last week on Nello. Now that was harsh.
10 Comments | General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Glenwood South, Greg Cox, N&O, Restaurant Review Roulette, The Diner | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
April 13, 2010
If there were ever a match made in heaven, it would be whole hog North Carolina barbecue with local swamp-trash rockers, Southern Culture on the Skids. But it ain’t heaven, it’s Davie Street in downtown Raleigh this Saturday at the second annual North Carolina ‘Cuegrass Festival. I love how they state that the festival features the “bluegrass music by Southern Culture on the Skids.” Er, SCOTS is not a bluegrass band. SCOTS is not anywhere close to a bluegrass band. But SCOTS is a perfect band to play at a festival featuring Southern food, and particularly barbecue (fried chicken and banana pudding would be great, too). Now there are some legit bluegrass bands playing at ‘Cuegrass, so fans of banjo picking and fiddle playing need not worry about getting your fill of tunes.
The festival is put on by the folks at The Pit restaurant in Raleigh, and it’s a huge fundraiser to support the W.C. Breeze Family Farm, a 270-acre educational farm near Hillsborough devoted to sustainable agriculture, and the North Carolina Future Farmers of America , a student farmers’ education group. Barbecue sandwich plates, beef brisket sandwich plates, and beer (great local stuff) each will sell for $5. Pretty simple, and pretty reasonable (where’s that nanner puddin’??). And who knows, maybe Greg Hatem, Ed Mitchell and the other folks at Empire Eats will expand this festival to bring in other pitmasters from across the country, as is the case with the Big Apple Barbecue Block Party. We need that type of party here in North Carolina!
North Carolina ‘Cuegrass Festival
Saturday, April 17
11 AM to 4 PM (Rain or Shine)
328 W. Davie St., Raleigh, NC
Free entry
www.cuegrass.com
1 Comment | Barbecue, Events, General, Raleigh | Tagged: Barbecue, Ed Mitchell, Festivals, Raleigh, Southern Culture on the Skids, The Pit | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
April 7, 2010
This is a blatant rip-off of a recent piece in the Seattle Weekly, but I don’t give a damn. Here are a few local restaurants that could be a sex shop if you didn’t know any better. Sure, I may be making fun of some foreign language issues, but I’ll get over it if you do.
7. Humble Pie — Frankly, any place with the word “pie” in it will qualify here, but this Raleigh institution fit the bill.
6. Wang’s Kitchen — This is a silly, slightly politically incorrect take.
5. Fu Kee Express — See above, but this one is a lot funnier. If you need a quickie . . .
4. Buns — So simple. Sir Mix-A-Lot would like it here.
3. Woody’s — Anyone with this name deserves a spot here.
2. Twisted Noodle — I really don’t want to think too much what might go on in this place.
1. Jerk Masters — They’re the absolute best when it comes to a nice jerk.
Honorable Mentions: Pho Cali (come on, say it out loud), Roast Grill (actually, just for their “Hot Weiners” sign), Casalinga (sounds dirty to me), Hot Pot, Globe.
4 Comments | Cary, Chapel Hill, Durham, General, Raleigh, Restaurants | Tagged: Sex Shops, Triangle Restaurants | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
