August 25, 2010
This week’s review is of Flights, the restaurant in the Marriott-owned North Hills-based Renaissance Hotel. So, it’s a Marriott, eh? They’re not really known for putting top notch restaurants in their hotels. But what’s this on the menu? Pork from Cane Creek Farms? Locally sourced produce? Goat cheese from Elodie Farms? So, what you’re saying is that this Marriott doesn’t get all their stuff from US Foods??? Hmmm, maybe this restaurant won’t suck.
I have an inherent bias against hotel restaurants, but I suspect this place just might be better than it needs to be, and decent enough to hold its own versus the other places in North Hills. With that, I’m thinking this is a 3.5 to 4 star restaurant, and my hunch is that it’s going to be the higher rating. We shall see on Friday. Here are this week’s odds:
5 stars — 35 to 1
4.5 stars – 7 to 1
4 stars — 2 to 1
3.5 stars — 5 to 2
3 stars — 5 to 1
2.5 stars — 6 to 1
2 stars — 9 to 1
1.5 stars — 15 to 1
1 star — 25 to 1
Do I have a single reader who has made it to Flights? And, be honest, how many of you never even heard of this place?
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Edit: Flights soared to a 4 star rating, with Greg Cox using every airplane metaphor possible in his review. As I would have done, too.
11 Comments | 
General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Greg Cox, Marriott, News & Observer, North Hills, Raleigh, Renaissance Hotel, Restaurant Review Roulette | 
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Posted by Varmint
August 19, 2010
I can’t remember the last time I’ve been to Holly Springs, so I’m pretty sure I’ve never been to Il Forno Italian Grill, the subject of this week’s restaurant review in the News & Observer (note: the website has music, but at least this time, it’s Frank Sinatra’s “Fly Me To The Moon”). Il Forno seems to be a pretty standard Italian-American joint, with all the typical offerings found at nearly every other Italian-American restaurant. The key to guessing how good this restaurant is, and thus, how many stars Greg Cox will give it, then comes down to execution.
The Yelpsters seem to like it, but once again, there’s some reviews in there that say something like, “I’m from New York and my parents spent a week in Italy, so I know Italian food.” Geesh. I mean, we all pretty much know Italian food, although far too many people have had their minds and palates numbed by the likes of the Olive Garden — blecch.
But I digress. I suspect that Il Forno is probably a little better than average. That comes across in some of their Facebook page’s photos, but it’s also because they were serving bucatini dishes at the time. If a restaurant serves bucatini (and mind you, there’s no mention of that tubular pasta on the menu), then they care!
So, I’m going to waffle between 3 and 3.5 stars, with 3 being the slight favorite.
5 stars — 555 to 1
4.5 stars – 111 to 1
4 stars — 7 to 1
3.5 stars — 5 to 2
3 stars — 3 to 2
2.5 stars — 3 to 1
2 stars — 6 to 1
1.5 stars — 13 to 1
1 star — 20 to 1
Place your bets!
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Edit, August 20, 2010 — Ah, the dangers of this game of Review Roulette: Sometimes, places look a lot better than what they are, as evidenced by Il Forno’s 2.5 star review in today’s N&O. Greg Cox stated that the place has “flashes of promise” but are “still ironing out the wrinkles.” Oh, well.
Leave a Comment » | Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
August 11, 2010
To be reviewed this week is Bravo’s Mexican Grill, which appears to be a fairly standard Mexican restaurant in Cary. Nothing stands out about the menu. The website has the most god-awful sound ever, which I think is music, but it comes through as distortion (and I would hate it even if it were nice music). The owners apparently have two other places in South Carolina, but I know nothing about those.
This is the type of place that screams for a review of 2 or 2.5 stars, but the teaser in today’s N&O suggests that it might be a bit better than that. Maybe it’s their “Pollo Relleno” that is served with something called, “Creamy Broccoli Gravy.” I have no clue, and the online reviews don’t provide any great insight, either. Damn it, I hate guessing these places. But I suspect that this place just might be better than mediocre, and that’s why my target is 3 stars.
5 stars — 2,000 to 1
4.5 stars – 250 to 1
4 stars — 25 to 1
3.5 stars — 3 to 1
3 stars — 5 to 4
2.5 stars — 2 to 1
2 stars — 5 to 1
1.5 stars — 7 to 1
1 star — 25 to 1
Let me know if you’ve eaten there. And how many stars you think it will get. And if you go back, please tell the owners to drop the music from the website!
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Edit, August 13, 2010 — Hah, take that, you naysayers! Bravo’s got 3 stars from the N&O. And so what if there really weren’t any naysayers? I just like to say that I’m right and create controversy when there really is none.
3 Comments | Cary, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Bravo's Mexican Grill, Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
August 10, 2010
Many of you might think that my kids eat everything and anything put in front of them. Not so. Each of our four children has his or her idiosyncrasies, things that are loved or loathed. My oldest loves most food, but he hates legumes of any kind — except for roasted peanuts, perhaps. He just can’t stand the texture and now the taste. My older daughter doesn’t like seafood or red meat. My younger son doesn’t like cooked fruit, except for applesauce. My younger daughter doesn’t like bananas or fresh peaches or pineapple. Only one of the kids will eat raw tomatoes and none of them like cilantro. I sometimes stress out, as my (unrealistic) expectations are that they should like everything. Yes, that’s a completely ludicrous position, and I’m coming to grips with it.
I recently visited Vin Rouge in Durham, taking my younger two children (they’re 9 and 11). I’ve known chef Matt Kelly before he started there, but I’ve only eaten his cooking a couple of times. Vin Rouge has become the place where other chefs eat, primarily because of Kelly’s dedication to the craft of cooking. He’s one hell of a cook, and if you ever visit on a Sunday night, you’ll find a handful of local chefs eating there on their night off.
Anyhow, shortly after we sat down, a huge charcuterie plate landed on our table, featuring 5 different kinds of pate’, a pork rillette (or was it rabbit?), plus some bacon confiture, salami and other goodies. The kids tried some of the items on the plate, liking some and saying, “That’s different” with others. My son later tried and liked my sweetbreads. The kids ordered hanger steak — rare (although they were torn between that and the mussels). For dessert they had chocolate mousse and creme brulee. It was a pretty safe meal, except for the pate’ and the sweetbreads.
Last night I attended a potluck where a number of chefs were in attendance, including Matt Kelly. I thanked him again for the charcuterie plate and told him that my kids had fun with it. He responded, “It’s great to serve normal food to kids, as it’s so rare for that to happen. I get all kinds of crazy requests to accommodate kids.” I thought about that for a moment, and then realized that Matt’s statement might be the highest complement he could have paid me as a food-loving father. Suddenly, images of my kids’ food adventures started running through my head. I took those same two children to Publican in Chicago last month, where they sampled lamb neck, sturgeon, octopus and pork rinds. They loved the frites with fried eggs on top (someone needs to do that dish around here — are you listening, Ashley Christensen?). They didn’t think the food was weird at all.
And so, after all these years, I think that I’m finally able to handle the kids’ dislikes. They’re by no means picky eaters, and I realize that. They may never have a passion for food the way that I do, but they’ll always understand its importance. Yup, I’m damn lucky indeed.
5 Comments | chefs, Durham, Family and Food, Restaurants | Tagged: Family, Matt Kelly, Parenthood, Vin Rouge | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
August 5, 2010
I had the pleasure of attending the Stir the Pot event at Poole’s Diner a couple of months ago that featured the cooking of Charleston chef and wonderboy Sean Brock, and what a great event it was. It was great because Brock and Chef Ashley Christensen put together some fantastic food, mixing the traditional and the contemporary. It was great because Matt Fern hooked us up with some incredible wines. It was great because I got to eat and mingle with chefs, food writers, and folks like me who love food.
But it was truly great because this event supported the Southern Foodways Alliance. I’ve written about the SFA a number of times, but this is an organization that truly understands what food is all about. It isn’t about adding notches to your restaurant belt, showing how many of the hottest places you eaten. It isn’t about the hottest or latest trend. What it is about is the role of food in our society. It’s about the camaraderie of individuals who care about food. It’s about what food — and particularly Southern food — means to me and you and anyone else who cares about what he or she eats. I’ve made dozens of great friends through the SFA. I know so much more about food because of the SFA. I’ve convinced chefs that they need to get involved in the SFA, and once they did, they haven’t stopped thanking me. And even though I’m not a chef or food writer or TV producer, I’m still accepted by those who are. It’s a non-judgmental organization.
And this Sunday and Monday, you can help the SFA while having some incredible food. Ashley Christensen and Poole’s Diner will be having their second round of Stir the Pot, featuring the talents of Alex Raij and Eder Montero, the wife and husband owners of New York’s Txikito, the city’s only Basque restaurant and El Quinto Pino, the city’s best tapas place. These are big-time New York chefs, and just because you haven’t seen their faces all over the Food Network, they’re the real deal. And we’re lucky to have them.
On Sunday, Poole’s will be hosting Raij and Montero for a wonderful dinner, which will start at 6:30 PM with lots of sparkling wine (Spanish, I’m betting) and creative Spanish finger foods. This will be followed by a 5 course dinner, with wine accompaniments. The cost is $150, plus tax and tip. I know our dining budgets are tight these days, but remember, you’re also supporting an incredible organization with the SFA. You’ll also get to have discussions with the chefs.
On Monday evening from 6-9, Ashley Christensen will be hosting a potluck at her home. The potluck is for everyone–restaurant industry folks, writers, beverage enthusiasts, home cooks and people who with a general love for food and its history. A main course of black cherry smoked beer can-roasted chicken and wine to match will be provided, along with some fantastic beer from my buddies at Fullsteam Brewery and signature cocktails from the mixologists at Foundation. Just bring a dish for the potluck (I’m bringing some vodka that has been steeping in blackberries for 2 months) and a check for $35 payable to the Southern Foodways Alliance.
Please call Poole’s at 832-477 to make reservations for either or both of these great events.
Leave a Comment » | chefs, Events, Raleigh, Restaurants, Southern Food Culture | Tagged: Alex Raij, Ashley Christensen, Eder Montero, El Quinto Pino, Matt Fern, Poole's Diner, sfa, Southern Foodways Alliance, Stir the Pot, Txikito | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
August 5, 2010
Yeah, you read that headline right, and before you get too excited about this possible claim, realize that I’m not saying The Fearrington House is definitely the best restaurant in the Triangle, but it is certainly a contender. It’s that good. But first, a little story of my relationship with this great Chatham County place. Read the rest of this entry »
9 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, Chapel Hill, chefs, General, Restaurants | Tagged: Chatham County, Colin Bedford, Country Inns, Dean Smith, Fearrington House, Jenny Fitch, Restaurants | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
August 4, 2010
Did you miss me? Sorry, but I’ve been on vacation and really haven’t even thought about writing. My timing was pretty good, however, as the N&O didn’t have a review last week, with it being the fifth Friday of the month.
This week’s contestant is Market Restaurant, the hip place in Raleigh’s Mordecai neighborhood that focuses on local, organic fare. This place has been favorably reviewed by Urbanspoon reviewers and the omnipresent Yelpsters. It has a chef who is committed to things that foodies (and food critics) like: flavorful, local ingredients, simply prepared, well-presented. It’s in a cool neighborhood. And the prices are reasonable, with the most expensive thing on the menu (except for the fish of the day) will run you 16 bucks.
Based on these considerations, I expect Market to get a decent review from Greg Cox. It’s his type of place, and the on-line reviews have been pretty favorable. Once again, this is a place I haven’t visited yet (do you get the sense that I really don’t get out all that much?), but I’m feeling that Market will garner 4 stars.
Here are the odds:
5 stars — 25 to 1
4.5 stars – 2 to 1
4 stars — 1 to 1
3.5 stars — 5 to 2
3 stars — 4 to 1
2.5 stars — 7 to 1
2 stars — 13 to 1
1.5 stars — 27 to 1
1 star — 75 to 1
How many stars would you give Market? And how many stars will Greg Cox give it?
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Edit, August 6, 2010 – Nailed this one! Market got 4 stars from Greg Cox in today’s N&O, with Cox praising the seafood options in particular.
17 Comments | Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Greg Cox, Market Restaurant, Raleigh, Restaurant Review Roulette, Restaurants | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
July 21, 2010
Authenticity. Greg Cox loves the “hole in the wall” restaurant that offers traditional, “authentic” cuisine. And he really likes traditional Chinese food, so I suspect that he’s going to give a favorable review of Morrisville’s C & T Wok, a place that offers standard Chinese-American and Thai food, but it also has a traditional Szechuan menu. Here, Cox can fulfill his cravings for organ meats and tendon dishes and the heat that this cuisine provides.
Greg Cox enjoys his fine dining, but it’s this type of place that really gets him excited. Now I have no idea of whether the folks at C & T Wok do it well, but I bet Cox will like it just fine.
I’m saying 3 to 3.5 stars for this one.
5 stars — 963 to 1
4.5 stars – 19 to 1
4 stars — 9 to 2
3.5 stars — 5 to 3
3 stars — 3 to 2
2.5 stars — 5 to 2
2 stars — 4 to 1
1.5 stars — 9 to 1
1 star — 27 to 1
So who’s been to C & T Wok? And why does this place make me sing, C+C Music Factory’s “Everybody Dance Now?” You can thank me for the rest of the day for planting that song in your head. Along with “Wok on the Wild Side” and “Wok This Way.” The puns have ended. Nothing more to see here.
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Edit, July 23, 2010: As expected, Greg Cox liked C&T Wok, giving it 3.5 stars. And now I’m going to have to try that clam soup.
4 Comments | Morrisville, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: C&T Wok, Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
July 14, 2010
If you ask a local for a good breakfast spot, Courtney’s will get mentioned as much as anyone else. There are a few Courtney’s locations in the Triangle, and many people swear their breakfasts are the best in the area. I don’t agree, as the food has always been decent, but not great, but I can understand the appeal. Courtney’s also serves lunch, offering soups, salads and sandwiches. Courtney’s has not, however, traditionally served dinner. Until recently.
Enter Chef Orobosa John Uwagbai. And Courtney’s Bistro. Chef Orobosa is a native Nigerian who has been cooking low country fare in the Charleston area for some time, and then worked at Gregory’s in Cary. The Courtney’s Bistro website claims he’s listed as one of the top 25 chefs in the country (although they don’t list the source of that list). He’s now partnered with the owners of Courtney’s to offer a “unique and exquisite dinner service.” Now this is quite a combination, combining crystal and linen with the diner-like feel of Courtney’s. The menu certainly focuses on low country specialties such as shrimp and grits and gumbo, but he also offers traditional fare such as rack of lamb and pasta dishes.
And now Greg Cox gets to review this bizarre combination.
I have no clue how good the food is. I have no clue how this concept works. I have no clue if Greg Cox will love or loathe the place. What to do, oh, what to do?
Punt. That’s what I need to do. But, alas, this being Restaurant Review Roulette, I cannot run away. I have to establish the odds. There is a substantial amount of betting going on, I’m sure (snicker), and so I offer this week’s prognostication: Courtney’s Bistro will garner 3 stars.
5 stars — 200 to 1
4.5 stars – 20 to 1
4 stars — 9 to 2
3.5 stars — 2 to 1
3 stars — 3 to 2
2.5 stars — 5 to 2
2 stars — 3 to 1
1.5 stars — 7 to 1
1 star — 17 to 1
I don’t know a soul who has tried Courtney’s Bistro. Let me know your thoughts. And your predictions.
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Edit, July 16, 2010: Greg Cox gave Courtney’s Bistro 3 stars, just as I predicted. However, the description of the food sounds as if Courtney’s Bistro could have merited at least another half star. I guess the guy has a problem with formica tables.
2 Comments | Cary, chefs, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Cary, Courtney's Bistro, Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
July 13, 2010
Image courtesy of Lucky 32
You might have heard of Lucky 32, and you might have even eaten there over the years. There are two Lucky 32 locations, one in Greensboro and the other in Cary near Regency Park, and until last year, I didn’t think much about the place. My recollections of Lucky 32 were of a glorified, slightly high-end chain restaurant in the ilk of Tripp’s. The menu was all over the place, with food representing cuisine from just about every major country. People who have never been have told me that they thought it was a Chinese restaurant.
Last October, while attending the Southern Foodways Alliance’s annual symposium, I was waiting in line to get some grub and started talking to this guy with long hair pulled back into a pony tail and a bitchin’ goatee. He told me his name was Jay Pierce, and that he was the chef at Lucky 32. In a moment of Southern food snobbery, I wondered what the hell a chef of a high-end Applebee’s was doing at the SFA symposium. I quickly learned from Chef Pierce that Lucky 32 was a completely different restaurant, that it had a focus on Southern cuisine with locally sourced ingredients. I couldn’t believe that Lucky 32 had changed so much.
A month or two later, I got an email from Jay, asking me if I’d be willing to come over and go through a tasting of the new winter menu. I was intrigued by what they were doing, and so I came over at lunch time and joined Jay and General Manager Shane Garrity in a whirl-wind tour of about 15 dishes. These were dishes that were sometimes classic Southern, but always inspired by Southern traditions. I offered my comments to Jay, telling him what I liked and what I would change slightly. I told Chef Pierce that Lucky 32 had become a high-end “meat and 3″ place, as the side dishes were as much of a feature as the mains. He liked that concept, but frankly, I had forgotten about it until recently.
Flash forward to two weeks ago, when Jay invited me back to try to summer menu, which he was calling “Suddenly This Summer.” I was excited to get back for two reasons. First of all, because I had failed to write about my first tasting experience, but second, and more importantly, because I wanted to see what he was going to do with summer produce. As I pulled into the parking lot, I noticed that the name of the restaurant had slightly changed; it’s now “Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen.” It appears this transformation to a high end meat and 3 is complete, so I was anxious to eat. This is what I tasted, and the comments I gave. Read the rest of this entry »
11 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, Cary, chefs, General, Restaurants, Southern food | Tagged: Cary, Greensbor, Jay Pierce, Lucky 32, Meat and 3, Restaurants | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
July 7, 2010
Greg Cox reviews Cameron Village’s new Southwestern/Mexican joint, Cantina 18, in this Friday’s News & Observer. Cantina 18 is the creation of Jason Smith, the chef of 18 Seaboard, and it has received mixed reviews from my friends and colleagues. Those who are well-versed in authentic Mexican food don’t care for it all that much, whereas folks who enjoy a burrito from Moe’s recognize that this is a step up from that chain-restaurant fare. Some people have complained about the prices (particularly when compared to a taqueria), but this is more uspscale, and the tacos come with rice, beans and slaw. I’ve yet to eat there, simply because the place had so many initial problems that needed to be resolved. I’m now ready to give it a try, and I suspect I’ll like it just fine.
But that’s not all that relevant or important, as what we really are concerned with is how many stars Greg Cox will give the place. I suspect he’ll like the fact that this is not a typical cookie-cutter Mexican restaurant, that Jason Smith took some chances. I think he’ll like the fact that it’s in Cameron Village, a place that needs some originality with its restaurants. I think he’ll like the food, too. But I don’t think he’ll love it. To me, this is a 3.5 star place all the way. We shall see.
Here are the odds:
5 stars — 99 to 1
4.5 stars – 13 to 1
4 stars — 3 to 1
3.5 stars — 5 to 3
3 stars — 4 to 1
2.5 stars — 7 to 1
2 stars — 11 to 1
1.5 stars — 21 to 1
1 star — 33 to 1
I’m hedging my bets here intentionally. This is a place where Greg Cox could have had a great experience, or a lousy one. How many stars do you think it deserves?
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Edit, July 9, 2010 — It’s a 3 star review for Cantina 18, with Greg Cox saying there’s been a marked improvement over the preceding visit each of the three times he’s visited.
2 Comments | chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: 18 Seaboard, Cameron Village, Cantina 18, Greg Cox, Jason Smith, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
June 30, 2010
I love pizza, and even mediocre pizza is pretty damn good. But great pizza is so hard to find — the Triangle has not had a great pizza place. And when I say “great”, I mean the pizza is hauntingly memorable, where you can’t get the taste out of your head. I’ve had great pizza in New York, New Haven and Phoenix. This pizza is all about the crust, with a slight char, where the toppings almost melt into oblivion. Moreover, these pizzas (or pizze) are inevitably cooked in super-hot ovens, typically 900 degrees or more and fired with coal. Most pizza joints have gas-fueled pizza ovens, which can get up to 500 degrees or so, but still far cooler than what’s needed. Wood-fired ovens get a bit hotter, but not quite enough. Coal is where it’s at. And we now have a coal-fired pizza oven in the Triangle. In Cary, of all places. And very close to my home.
This place is Bella Mia, in the Arboretum at the corner of Weston Parkway and Harrison Avenue. The place is owned by Rick Guerra, a New Yorker if there ever was one. Guerra is friendly and passionate about what he does. His sons man the two ovens that are fueled initially with oak, and then hard coal to bring up the heat. The flour is imported “00″ grade. The tomatoes, San Marzano. The mozzarella, from water buffaloes. This place doesn’t put second rate ingredients on its pies, and damn, the crust is so good.
We’re talking fairly thin-crust Neapolitan-style pizza here. And as I said above, it’s all about the crust — perfectly charred, with just the right amount of texture and salt (and not even the slightest bit of sweetness, thank you very much). I’d prefer it just slightly thinner, but I’m not complaining. This is the real deal, folks, and I suspect Bella Mia will soon have lines snaking out the door, as NO ONE in the Triangle has a pizza this good. Just order the Margherita and enjoy. I just finished an hour ago, and I’m already wanting to get back.
Bella Mia
2015 Renaissance Park Place (in the Arboretum off Westin Pkwy)
Cary, NC
919-677-3999
www.bellamiacoalfire.com
22 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, Cary, Restaurants | Tagged: Bella Mia, Cary, Pizza, Restaurants | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
June 30, 2010
Another week, another review of a restaurant that I may never visit. Oh, the glamorous life of a restaurant reviewer! Seriously, I know Greg Cox’s primary objective is to be a consumer advocate. He’s trying to help his readers make dining decisions, but for god’s sake, wouldn’t it be maddening to have to go to middling places day after day? Places that are new not in concept or cuisine, but only in name?
This week’s subject: Carini, an Italian place in Cary (warning: home page has music that cannot be turned off). Now this is the exact type of restaurant I look for in unfamiliar towns when I’m trying to line up a team meal for one of my kids’ soccer teams during a tournament. I want the tried and true Italian-American menu, with lots of inexpensive pasta offerings and the availability of pizza. There are thousands of places like this across the country (maybe even the state), and rarely does one stand out, on either the good or the bad side. But this is not the type of place I generally want to visit on a night out in the Triangle. I’m sure it’s just fine — but that’s the problem. I want more than “just fine” when dining in the area.
I don’t know the history of Carini. I don’t know the owners. I don’t know how long they’ve been around. I don’t know what type of pizza they offer or whether their red sauce is piquant or sweet. I don’t know if their desserts are made in house or purchased from a supplier (I suspect the latter based on the pictures).
What I’m pretty sure of is that you can probably get a very reliable meal at Carini, just like most other Italian joints. I base this on a couple of diner reviews floating around the internet. It’s not great and not bad.
So, I’m guessing it gets 3 stars. Not great. Not bad. Here are this week’s odds:
5 stars — 150 to 1
4.5 stars – 80 to 1
4 stars — 14 to 1
3.5 stars — 3 to 1
3 stars — 2 to 1
2.5 stars — 3 to 1
2 stars — 7 to 1
1.5 stars — 25 to 1
1 star — 45 to 1
If website design were part of the review, I would have given the place less than 2 stars, but even Greg Cox doesn’t use that in his process. How many stars do you think Carini will get?
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Edit — July 2, 2010: As predicted, Carini received 3 stars. No, it’s not that I’m that good in predicting what Greg Cox will do, it’s just that this restaurant was so predictable.
Leave a Comment » | Cary, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Carini, Cary, Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette, Restaurants | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
June 24, 2010
I’m about to start a series of articles on the iconic restaurants of the Triangle. I’ve visited two of those places in the past week: The Irregardless Cafe and The Fearrington House. To make my list of “iconic”, the restaurant had to have opened no later than the 80′s, when I was in school at Chapel Hill. Some of these places are owned by friends, such as Crook’s Corner and Magnolia Grill. Others are institutions that I haven’t visited in 20 or more years, such as The Angus Barn or La Residence (and, until last night, the fantastic Fearrington House). I’ll probably not write about the cheap-eats places like Cooper’s or The Roast Grill or the Sunrise Biscuit Kitchen, but then again, I might.
What restaurants would you consider to be iconic in this area, based on my temporal qualifications specified above? And frankly, any place that has survived for over 20 years is iconic by definition. Here’s a list that I just started (and again, just because it’s on this list doesn’t mean I’m going to write about it).
- Magnolia Grill
- Crook’s Corner
- La Residence
- Spanky’s
- The Angus Barn
- Irregardless
- The Fearrington House
- Casa Carbone
- Fishmonger’s
- Mecca
- Bullock’s
- Roast Grill
- Carolina Coffee Shop
- Ye Olde Waffle Shop
- Time Out
- Sunrise Biscuit Kitchen
- Cooper’s
- Mama Dip’s
- Breadman’s
I haven’t listed places that are hotel restaurants such as the Carolina Inn or Il Palio (and Fearrington is a bit different). I know I’m missing lots of places, as I just thought about this idea 10 minutes ago, so I’d love your help putting together this list.
23 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, General, Restaurants | Tagged: Iconic Restaurants of the Triangle, Restaurants | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
June 16, 2010
This week’s review is an Indian restaurant about which I know nothing: Zayka Indian Cuisine. Might be good, might be not so good. The teaser in today’s N&O talked about “hits and misses.” That’s usually a bad sign. So I’m just going to cut to the chase and say this will be a 2 to 2.5 star review. How do I know that? I don’t. And I have not done one bit of research. I’m just guessing now.
5 stars — 500 to 1
4.5 stars –450 to 1
4 stars — 40 to 1
3.5 stars — 7 to 1
3 stars — 5 to 1
2.5 stars — 2 to 1
2 stars — 7 to 2
1.5 stars — 8 to 1
1 star — 19 to 1
Tell me about Zayka, please. Tell me that I’m wrong and it’s great. Please!
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(June 18, 2010 Edit) — He liked it. He really, really liked it. OK, so Greg Cox gave it 3 stars, but that’s more than what I thought he’d do, so congratulations to Zayka!
3 Comments | General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Greg Cox, News & Observer, Raleigh, Restaurant Review Roulette, Zayka Indian Cuisine | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
June 9, 2010
Damn you, Greg Cox! This week, Greg is reviewing yet another restaurant about which I know absolutely nothing: a Peruvian chicken joint in Clayton named “Lucky Chicken.” However, I think I can come up with a pretty good guess of what Greg’s going to say about this, as I’ve got this guy figured out (yes, restrain those chuckles, please).
First of all, this is by no means a white tablecloth establishment. It’s a simple, out of the way, mom and pop joint that could be given a label of an “ethnic eatery.” I really don’t know what such a label means anymore, but it’s a non-Western European cuisine. Greg Cox loves these types of joints, and when he decides to write a full review of such a place, it’s because he likes it. I also know that when it comes to cheap eats sort of places, like Lucky Chicken, Cox will not give it more than 4 stars (unless it’s truly transcendent, but I’m not sure if he’s found one of those places). Moreover, I know of no other Peruvian chicken place in the area. I’ve only had Peruvian chicken once, from a great take-out place in the Upper East Side of New York, and it was fantastic. Because of the uniqueness of Lucky Chicken to the area, it gives it another half star.
So, the question is whether this place is going to be a top-notch 3.5 star hole in the wall, or a knock-your-socks-off 4 star place. I’m really thinking of 3.5 stars, but for some reason, I can’t let go of the possibility of 4 stars. Call it a hunch, but I’m going with 4 stars. Call me Lucky.
Here are this week’s odds:
5 stars — 300 to 1
4.5 stars – 45 to 1
4 stars — 2 to 1
3.5 stars — 5 to 2
3 stars — 5 to 1
2.5 stars — 9 to 1
2 stars — 15 to 1
1.5 stars — 25 to 1
1 star — 60 to 1
How lucky will Lucy Chicken be??
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Edit June 11, 2010: Greg Cox gave Lucky Chicken 3.5 stars. Argh, I thought this was going to be one of those 4 star review places, but I was off by half a star. Still, he called the Peruvian roast chicken “gloriously delicious.” Looks like a trip to Clayton may be in order!
5 Comments | Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Clayton, Greg Cox, Lucky Chicken, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
June 2, 2010
Rocky Top Hospitality’s latest restaurant, Tribeca Tavern, is an homage to burgers. And it’s the subject of News & Observer restaurant critic Greg Cox’s review this week. Located in a huge space in Cary, I’ve heard a few decent things about the place and their burgers. I’ve heard they grind their own beef and bake their own brioche rolls. I’ve also heard that the service is a bit suspect, which should not surprise anyone — as any new place of this size will take quite some time until they get the kinks worked out.
I love me a good burger, and I’ll be heading over to try a Tribeca Tavern version one of these days, regardless of what Greg Cox’s review says. I suspect he’ll like the burgers. I suspect he’ll not like the service. I suspect he’ll think the menu is too expansive, leading to inconsistency in other foods. And I suspect he’ll give Tribeca Tavern 3.5 stars.
Here are this week’s odds:
5 stars — 50 to 1
4.5 stars – 14 to 1
4 stars — 5 to 1
3.5 stars — 2 to 1
3 stars — 4 to 1
2.5 stars — 7 to 1
2 stars — 11 to 1
1.5 stars — 18 to 1
1 star — 64 to 1
So, what do you think Greg Cox will give Tribeca Tavern?
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(Edit — June 4, 2010) – Well, it’s a 3-star review for Tribeca Tavern. Restaurant critic Greg Cox noted that the place was still on the upside of the learning curve, and the burgers outshine anything else on the menu. Cox also prefers his burgers to be of the simple variety, instead of the myriad “baroque” combinations on the menu.
Point of correction: the buns at Tribeca Tavern are not baked in-house. They’re baked by the local Neomonde bakery. They get a lot of their stuff from in-state providers including beef, cheeses, produce and even pickles! Thanks to owner Dean Ogan for pointing this out to me. I’m really going to have to give their burger a try.
4 Comments | Cary, General, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Cary, Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette, Tribeca Tavern | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
May 26, 2010
After last week’s review of bu.ku, where I was quite confident of what Greg Cox was going to do, I return to unfamiliar territory of restaurants about which I know nothing. This time, it’s Durham’s Restaurant Eden, which based on its name strives to be a gustatory paradise. Restaurant Eden opened in the same location of the beloved, but insufficiently busy Starlu. The teaser in today’s N&O says that Eden has some hits and misses — but then, that’s what happened in the Book of Genesis, too, right? Alas, that teaser shows that Eden may not be a 5 star place that defines a garden of paradise. Another thing that suggests the same is that 5 of the 9 entrees on the menu include “Garden Veggies.” Now, we know that the Garden of Eden was filled with lots of great things to eat, and one that was a bit taboo, but let me just say that I suspect that even Adam and Even never called anything “veggies.” That’s a term used by the serpent or lazy marketing folks. But even worse is for a restaurant to use these same veggies time and time again — that’s not paradise, folks, that’s Applebee’s. Just sayin’. And I also want to know if they serve apples or any other forbidden fruit in this restaurant. Is it clothing optional, or is this Eden after the fall from grace? So many questions.
So, without further ado, here are this week’s odds:
5 stars — 39 to 1
4.5 stars – 22 to 1
4 stars — 9 to 1
3.5 stars — 3 to 1
3 stars — 5 to 2
2.5 stars — 4 to 1
2 stars — 9 to 1
1.5 stars — 23 to 1
1 star — 58 to 1
Have you dined at Restaurant Eden? If so, how many stars would you give it? More importantly, how many stars do you think Greg Cox will bestow upon it? And let me know if there are any serpents lurking about.
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Edit, May 28, 2010 — Greg Cox gave Restaurant Eden 2.5 stars. The review reads like the restaurant deserves more than that, as it focuses on somewhat misleading menu descriptions and a heavy hand with the balsamic reduction. I suspect this is one review that was hurt by the paper’s space limitations. Would love for Greg to post on his blog his thoughts on other dishes.
4 Comments | Durham, General, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Eden, Restaurant Review Roulette | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
May 25, 2010
Phoebe Lawless, Durham’s baker extraordinaire, will be opening Scratch’s new bakeshop next week at 111 Orange Street in downtown Durham. For those of you who do not regularly visit the Durham Farmer’s Market, Lawless is known for her fantastic pies, including chocolate sea salt, shaker lemon, and many savory varieties. Of course, Phoebe’s donut muffins are, as my 9 year old puts it, “To die for.” Those donut muffins were a huge hit at last fall’s Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium, and they sell out quickly each week at the Durahm market.
Construction of the new bakeshop has been ongoing for several months, and final inspections are scheduled for the first of next week. The 1,400 square foot bakeshop will have a regularly rotating schedule of baked goods, including empanadas, flatbreads, and lots of pie. Lawless sources nearly all her ingredients locally, and she is one of the leaders of the local Slow Food convivium. The bakeshop will also be a great place for coffee, as Lawless invested in a La Marzocco espresso machine and will be using Counter Culture’s beans. The hours of the bakeshop will be 7:30 to 4, Monday through Friday and Saturday from 9 to 3.
And for you farmer’s market faithful, no need to worry, as Phoebe will continue to have a booth on market days.
Time for a donut muffin.
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Scratch Seasonal Artisan Baking
111 Orange Street
Durham, NC 27701
919-956-5200
piefantasy.com
2 Comments | Best Of the Triangle, chefs, Durham, General, Restaurants | Tagged: Bakers, Durham Farmer's Market, Phoebe Lawless, Scratch, Scratch Baking, Scratch Seasonal Artisan Baking | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
May 19, 2010
Sorry for missing last week’s review, but after being out of town, I just couldn’t bring myself to predict how many stars a Calabash-style seafood eatery was going to get. This week is another story, however, as Greg Cox is reviewing Raleigh’s bu•ku, the restaurant with a bullet point in its name. I’ve written about bu•ku, and many of you know I’m a big fan of bu•ku’s chef, William D’Auvray. He’s one of the most creative chefs in the Triangle, and I considered the food at his last restaurant, Fins, to be nonpareil.
bu•ku is a different restaurant, however. It’s not a quiet place, and that is intentional. bu•ku is designed to be a place for crowds to get together, order a bunch of small plates of the so-called “street food” bu•ku offers, and have a good time. Some critics argue that bu•ku does not serve genuine street food, that D’Auvray’s offerings are nothing like what they had on the streets of India, the Philippines, or Mexico. My brilliant, intellectual response to those claims is, “No duh!” Of course it’s not the same — you’re getting this food in a Raleigh office tower from a kitchen that could hardly be compared to anything found on the streets of Bangkok. This is William D’Auvray’s interpretation of street food, and it’s really quite good.
Greg Cox also like’s D’Auvray’s cooking, as he perennially listed Fins as one of his top restaurants in the Triangle, naming it his restaurant of the year not long ago. I also know Cox loves to write about cuisines from far-away places, and I’ve discovered several gems from his N&O reviews. Do I think Cox will give bu•ku the same 5 stars that he gave Fins? Absolutely not. Do I think he will like it? Yes, I do. I would be stunned if he gives it anything less than 4 stars. Adding another half star might be a stretch, particularly in light of the fact that bu•ku isn’t really trying to be that ultimate, fine-dining establishment that Fins was. But who knows, Cox has given 4.5 stars to other places that are quite comparable to bu•ku. This will be an interesting review, but I’m hedging my bets by listing co-favorites this week.
5 stars — 5 to 1
4.5 stars – 3 to 2
4 stars — 3 to 2
3.5 stars — 7 to 1
3 stars — 10 to 1
2.5 stars — 30 to 1
2 stars — 75 to 1
1.5 stars — 250 to 1
1 star — 500 to 1
How many stars do you think bu•ku will get, and what are your thoughts on this restaurant?
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(Edit May 21, 2010) – Congratulations to bu•ku, as Greg Cox awarded it 4.5 stars. After having lunch there on Wednesday, those are well-deserved stars. This is a place where you can get in and out for less than 10 bucks if you want, or you can have a big-time night. And it will all taste great.
3 Comments | chefs, General, Raleigh, Restaurant Roulette, Restaurants | Tagged: bu•ku, buku, Greg Cox, News & Observer, Restaurant Review Roulette, William D'Auvray | Permalink
Posted by Varmint
