My Weekend With the SFA

October 31, 2011

I got back from the Southern Foodways Alliance’s annual Symposium, where the focus this year was on the “cultivated South.” And this is what I did:

  • I hung out with a poet who knows how to spin verses on deviled eggs.
  • I tasted the first olive oil produced east of the Mississippi in over a hundred years.
  • I watched an opera. An opera about collard greens.
  • I drank a Manhattan with the country’s leading cocktail authority.
  • I ate a foot-long, heirloom radish.
  • I made a hard apple cider float, with great cider from Foggy Ridge in Virginia and freshly made vanilla ice milk.
  • I learned about the growth of community gardens in the parking lots of Atlanta.
  • I helped raise $270,000 from some amazing generous individuals.
  • I sang “Scenes from an Italian Restaurant” with an owner of a popsicle shop.
  • I sipped punch from a bathtub.
  • I had lunch with the original publisher of Spin magazine.
  • I ate a slice of wild boar prosciutto.
  • I saw an amazing set of food-themed photographs from an incredibly talented young lady.
  • I snacked on boiled peanuts while watching a film about, what else, boiled peanuts.
  • I tasted far too many different bourbons than I can remember.
  • I had some of the best fried chicken, while staring in awe at the customer beside me who devoured 8 pieces in 10 minutes.
  • I took home a packet of pimento seeds, which I will plant in the spring.
  • I sadly learned about the demise of the native mirliton, but also was happily informed of one man’s quest to bring it back.
  • I spooned fig and bourbon preserves onto a country ham biscuit, confirming a match made in Southern heaven.
  • I rode on a school bus with a woman who wore a different Elvis t-shirt every day.
  • I had lunch with a fishmonger who brings seafood from the Gulf of Mexico to the West Coast.
  • I discovered that people will come up with crazy variations on common games, such as “Sexual Jenga.” And no, I did not play it.
  • I realized that I would like to have a bento box for lunch every day.
  • I smiled after a talented friend “blinged up” my name tag with Hello Kitty stickers (and more).
  • I chatted with one of the best chefs in the Triangle, only to learn that our families are from the same neck of the woods.
  • I was proven wrong: someone does make a good fried pickle.
That’s what I did this weekend, and this was just the tip of the iceberg. What did you do?

The Global South: 2010 SFA Symposium (Freestyle)

October 26, 2010

Early morning flight, moon still full
Heading off to Memphis and the hills of Ole Miss.
I missed the first night, and lack of head pain thanks me
Driving down 55, wanting to go 90, knowing what’s ahead.

Ah, there it is, I see the Square, and of course there’s no place to park.
Wait, there’s one, just for two hours, but tickets ain’t much.
Into the Lyric, they’re talking ’bout the Gulf
How seafood’s so clean, and ready for your plate
So why’s so few ready to partake?

It’s an hour short of noon, Bloody Mary time
With President Linton reminding us of how we serve the cause.
I’m still a tad bit nervous, being the new kid on the Board
But meeting lots of people, is just another reward.
We are all old friends, even if we’ve not met.
It’s the SFA. It’s what we do.

What’s that, time to eat? Tamales in the heat?
It’s Robb Walsh and I, off to lunch, to the Powerhouse we go.
He tells me all ’bout Houston
And Tex-Mex history
I’m near last in line, craving for some grub
As my last bite was a muffin, at the Starbucks, back home.

Who’s that? Ann Cashion there? Yes my dear, dear friend, we share tales of old and new
It’s folks like her who draw me back, back to Oxford town.
We love the sweet potato salad, and piquant peas
Quail tamales are something new, with dessert just divine.

Talks of masa and rice lead to Geechee, not Gullah
In Philly no less!
It’s cane sugar Coke and domestic rum, refreshing, relaxing for the bus.
To Taylor we go. For catfish we eat, sharing peach moonshine, hoping not to spill.
Fullsteam’s on tap, goes well with the fish, even when it’s fried in a hip-hop wok.

Time for bed. Fuck that shit. I need a drink. Some bourbon and beer.
Pabst BLUE Ribbon.
Time for last call, you’d think that that’s that. But later we stay,
Pableaux and Joe and Snack and me.
Speaking of snacks. Chevron knows oil, even for food
But not at 2:30. No chicken, no stick.

I’m too old for this crap. Stayin up with the moon. Sleep, I must sleep.
But I have people to meet
Friends to see. It’s the SFA, remember. It’s what we do.

Bring on the profs, after Amy and Kev. Talking ’bout talking. And the world, getting small.
Lam tears it up, and then just tears up. We’re in his palm, and he’s in our arms.
“Suck on the head,” Andrea cracks, Viet pride in Cali, expressed in food.
Not sure what he thinks, this rapper called Bling. With swoosh-laden boots
He stands before us, mostly white, over the hill. But he gets us. And we get him.
It’s the SFA. It’s what we do.

Ms. Bernstein gets us, too, with her Miami nice, serving chicken, and shrimp with all kinds of corn
Crunchy and popped and in hominy form.
I learn about lamb, from my new friend Craig, who’s a doc and a shepherd and a Shakespearean fan.
Ox tail. It’s rich, we need some red wine.
It’s called a tian. But to us, it’s something old as something new.
Nanner puddin, that’s what.

More listening and learning and talking and seeing
‘Bout Houston and Charlotte, so distant, so close.
Then how about a nap, a snooze, a rest?
But it’s time to honor those who’ve done it best.

It’s a film about men, Viet men who fish. Through winds and rains and plumes of crude.
They’ve lived thick and thin. And they’re here to stay.
Just like Calvin in Holmes, where they own their own land
And grow their own. And lend a hand.
One more honoree, Christiane’s her name. We’ve dined on her words, oft poisoned by her pen.
These folks are so proud. But not as much as we.
Because this is the SFA. It’s what we do.

Forty-three heads, of a bovine ilk, were buried in coals. Beef crack is mine.
Horchata with whiskey makes the crowd frisky,
Or was that the licks of Neuvo Banda Corral?
It’s corn one more time, but clear as day,
Don’t worry ’bout germs, it’s self-sterilized, that Mason jar rim.
We share, we hug, we laugh.
It’s the SFA. It’s what we do.

One final day, for the SYM-POS-I-UM. Doc Harris sells wares. But no one is buyin’.
The Mississippi Monks, start soft and start slow. And build it on up, making us move, making us believe
In the power of music, and togetherness and reconciliation.
I dance. I cry. I eat. I hug. I laugh. I say goodbye.

I’m in the SFA. It’s what I do.


The Best Community Cookbook Ever — And Two Events to Celebrate It

October 12, 2010

Yes, I love the Southern Foodways Alliance.  Yes, I’m a member.  And yes, I’ve even been nominated to be on its Board of Directors.  So it should be no surprise to you that I’ll do just about anything this organization asks of me — not just because I’m a good soldier, but because there’s nothing this organization does that I don’t support.  Whether it’s a fundraiser for their film or oral history initiatives or for scholarships for burgeoning food writers, I’m going to spread the word.

This time, however, it’s different.  This time, the event is to celebrate a cookbook.  A fantastic, spiral-bound, community cookbook, suitably named, “The Southern Foodways Alliance Community Cookbook.”  The cookbook  is divided into chapters that represent the region’s iconic foods: Gravy, Garden Goods, Roots, Greens, Rice, Grist, Yardbird, Pig, The Hook, The Hunt, Put Up, and Cane.  It’s been edited, written and compiled by some of my favorite people in the world, including April McGreger, baker and pickler extraordinaire of Farmer’s Daughter in Carrboro, Chapel Hill’s great cooking instructor, Sheri Castle,  and Sara Roahen, author of the fantastic book on New Orleans, “Gumbo Tales.”  Heck, I even submitted a recipe for the book — and yes, it is a recipe for cooking one type of varmint.

To celebrate the release of the book, there are not one, but two events planned for this weekend in Chapel Hill.

The first event is this Friday, October 15th, at Foster’s Market in Chapel Hill (750 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd).  This event is a book signing and is free to the public — and, yes, there will be a little bit of food there.

The second event has a lot of food, and this is a ticketed event.  It will be on Sunday at 4:00 PM at Chapel Hill’s 3CUPS (227 South Elliott Rd.).  If you just want to come and eat, it’ll cost you $25.  If you want one of these awesome cookbooks (all the cool kids have them), then that will cost you an additional 15 bucks.  That’s less than the Amazon price!  So, you get a soon-to-be iconic cookbook, lots of great food (with both cake and pie, as there will be a debate about which is better), lots of social interaction with writers, and all on a Sunday evening!  And because it is 3CUPS, there will be wine.  Tasty, wonderful wine.

So, get off your butt and head to Chapel Hill this weekend to buy a book — the best community cookbook ever!  And if you need more information, just check out the SFA’s Blog.


Southern Pies — The “Must Have” Cookbook

September 30, 2010

We all receive gifts from time to time.  A bottle of wine, a nice piece of pottery, or a cookbook.  On Sunday, my dear friend Nancie McDermott gave me a copy of her newly published “Southern Pies.”  I have all of Nancie’s cookbooks (as she has been so kind to give me copies of them), and through these books she’s taught me a ton about Asian cooking and Southern cakes.  I’ve enjoyed the books, as they’re very accessible and interesting, and all of the recipes have been winners.

But of all these gifts, this one — this book of pies — is different.  This is not only a gift commemorating a birthday, but it’s a gift for everyone.  It’s a gift from Nancie to the cooking world.  Hyperbole?  Judge for yourself, but if you take a serious look at this book, you’ll see what I mean.

Last night after dinner, I finally got a chance to sit down and take a look at Southern Pies, and my first impression is that this may be the first time I’ve had a cookbook that makes me want to make every single recipe in it.  I’m totally serious about this.  Of course, there are the expected chess, lemon and coconut pie variations, but there are a number of very interesting pies of which I’ve never heard: green tomato pie, sliced sweet potato pie, vinegar pie, bean pie, and a plum custard pie.  There are fruit pies that have added substantial amounts of cream to them.  Rhubarb and scuppernong grapes are featured.

I’ve always been a huge pie lover, but I’ve gotten away from baking them in the past year.  That’s all about to change.  I’ll be sure to chronicle my pie baking escapades here, and I suspect my kids are about to learn how to make pie crust.

Thanks again for this wonderful gift, Nancie.  It will be treasured for a long, long time.


Stir the Pot — Basque Style!

August 5, 2010

I had the pleasure of attending the Stir the Pot event at Poole’s Diner a couple of months ago that featured the cooking of Charleston chef and wonderboy Sean Brock, and what a great event it was.  It was great because Brock and Chef Ashley Christensen put together some fantastic food, mixing the traditional and the contemporary.  It was great because Matt Fern hooked us up with some incredible wines.  It was great because I got to eat and mingle with chefs, food writers, and folks like me who love food.

But it was truly great because this event supported the Southern Foodways Alliance.  I’ve written about the SFA a number of times, but this is an organization that truly understands what food is all about.  It isn’t about adding notches to your restaurant belt, showing how many of the hottest places you eaten.  It isn’t about the hottest or latest trend.  What it is about is the role of food in our society.  It’s about the camaraderie of individuals who care about food.  It’s about what food — and particularly Southern food — means to me and you and anyone else who cares about what he or she eats.  I’ve made dozens of great friends through the SFA.  I know so much more about food because of the SFA.  I’ve convinced chefs that they need to get involved in the SFA, and once they did, they haven’t stopped thanking me.  And even though I’m not a chef or food writer or TV producer, I’m still accepted by those who are.   It’s a non-judgmental organization.

And this Sunday and Monday, you can help the SFA while having some incredible food.  Ashley Christensen and Poole’s Diner will be having their second round of Stir the Pot, featuring the talents of Alex Raij and Eder Montero, the wife and husband owners of New York’s Txikito, the city’s only Basque restaurant and El Quinto Pino, the city’s best tapas place.  These are big-time New York chefs, and just because you haven’t seen their faces all over the Food Network, they’re the real deal.  And we’re lucky to have them.

On Sunday, Poole’s will be hosting Raij and Montero for a wonderful dinner, which will start at 6:30 PM with lots of sparkling wine (Spanish, I’m betting) and creative Spanish finger foods.  This will be followed by a 5 course dinner, with wine accompaniments.  The cost is $150, plus tax and tip.  I know our dining budgets are tight these days, but remember, you’re also supporting an incredible organization with the SFA.  You’ll also get to have discussions with the chefs.

On Monday evening from 6-9, Ashley Christensen will be hosting a potluck at her home.  The potluck is for everyone–restaurant industry folks, writers, beverage enthusiasts, home cooks and people who with a general love for food and its history.  A main course of black cherry smoked beer can-roasted chicken and wine to match will be provided, along with some fantastic beer from my buddies at Fullsteam Brewery and signature cocktails from the mixologists at Foundation.  Just bring a dish for the potluck (I’m bringing some vodka that has been steeping in blackberries for 2 months) and a check for $35 payable to the Southern Foodways Alliance.

Please call Poole’s at 832-477 to make reservations for either or both of these great events.


Southern Folks and Southern Foodways

November 16, 2009
Ashley and Bill

Ashley Christensen, Bill Smith, and Smoked Chicken Wings

I’m sipping a cold beer on a gorgeous Sunday afternoon, lazing about on a screened-in porch in rural Mississippi.  The conversation goes from football to Brazilian forestry camps and then to food.  Ah, the conversation always gets back to food, and that’s because I’m surrounded by chefs, who I’ve learned, love to “talk shop” more than just about any other professional I know.  These chefs include three winners of the prestigious James Beard Award, one who was recently nominated, and another who will likely win in the next few years.  Chefs love to talk about food, and so do I, so I feel right at home on this early November day. Read the rest of this entry »


The Barbecue Song

January 21, 2009

My friend Kathi Purvis sent me a link to this wonderful, and quite accurate, song about barbecue.  Yeah, it was part of an Alka-Seltzer ad campaign from last summer, but it’s still cool.  I think I’ll have Rhett and Link, the front men for this song, come to the next pig pickin’ I do, as they are from North Carolina.


Tales of a Country Ham

December 12, 2008

I’m very fortunate to know a lot of fantastic food writers, people who make it their jobs to bring us great culinary stories.  One of those individuals whose work I love, and whom I adore as a person even more, is the Charlotte Observer’s Kathleen Purvis.  Kathi is, as my wife’s grandfather would say, “real folk.”  She’s someone you want to drink a beer (or 7) with.  She’s forgotten more food facts than I’ve ever remembered.  And she’s a super writer.

Earlier this week, Kathi wrote about country ham.  This is the South’s finest form of charcuterie, and frankly, it’s fading away.  The good stuff has been replaced by mass-produced, overly salty, shrink-wrapped crap.  But Purvis (and that’s how she introduces herself when she calls on the phone — “Purvis here”) wanted to see how an artisinal country ham maker practices his craft.  How to make a ham so beautiful, so utterly delicious, that you would pay big bucks.

And so she’s doing just that, making a ham with Byron Jordan in West Jefferson using only four curing ingredients: “Brown sugar, salt, mountain air and time.”  I love that.  Read Kathi’s story, which will tell a tale of a country ham, starting last January with a 300 pound heirloom Tamworth pig.  Part II is here.  See the great pictures and a video, too.  This is food journalism at its best.


New North Carolina Barbecue Book Coming

June 23, 2008

I received in the mail a notice from UNC Press about a book that will be coming out in November, a book on North Carolina barbecue with the title, “Holy Smoke: The Big Book of North Carolina Barbecue.”  Yeah, I know — “Just what we need, another barbecue book.”  That’s what I thought, too., until I saw who wrote this sucker: John Shelton Reed, Dale Volberg Reed, and William McKinney.  I know each of these individuals, but Will McKinney is a friend who may be more knowledgeable about NC barbecue than anyone I know.  How knowledgeable?  Well, how many people have spent HUNDREDS of hours gathering oral interviews from owners and pitmasters of NC barbecue establishments?  How many people can say they founded the North Carolina BBQ Society — when they were a student??? McKinney has a passion for barbecue that few can match, so I’m quite sure his contributions were invaluable to this book.

John Shelton Reed is not a historian or a food writer by trade; he’s a sociologist, and that makes this book even more exciting in my mind.  It’s the human dynamic of barbecue that fascinates me, and I really can’t wait to dive into this book.  Professor Reed and his wife are two of the leading authorities on Southern culture (if you haven’t read their book, 1001 Things Everyone Should Know About the South, you need to), so I’m pretty darned sure that this book on barbecue won’t disappoint you.


Oh, New Orleans!

March 3, 2008

crawfish.jpgNew Orleans, oh, sweet New Orleans. There’s something about this town that whenever I visit, it pulls me closer to its heart, and a very large heart it has. For reasons I really can’t explain, I never visited this iconic city until I was 40, but I’ve now been here nearly half a dozen times in the past few years. I love everything about New Orleans — the people, the food, the music, the art, the architecture. This is a town with a grand and profound soul, and despite the historic tragedies it has had to endure, the setbacks have helped that spirit grow. I can finally say that I “get” New Orleans, its people, and its food. After my first couple of visits, I actually thought that New Orleans was essentially a captive of its own cuisine; that innovation was sacrificed at the expense of traditionalism. That may have been true, and if it were, the people of New Orleans would have just said, “Who gives a damn?” I now understand that attitude, and once I embraced New Orleans’ gastronomic history, I fell in love with the cuisine. I appreciate the freshness of the shrimp in a Johnny’s Po Boy; I know why a Sazerac in the Hotel Monteleone is some heavenly juice, or why simple boiled crawfish is the essence of seafood. And it took a meal of red beans and rice at a friend’s apartment shortly after the devastation of Katrina to help me understand that this is not only the way it is, but it’s the way it’s supposed to be. Simplicity. Honesty. Food of soul and love, and you find it all over town. Read the rest of this entry »


Southern Food, According to Gourmet

December 21, 2007

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I’ve subscribed to Gourmet for at least ten years. I was about to give up on the magazine until they ran a special edition that focused on Mexican and Latino foods, including a great Colman Andrews piece on Durham taquerias.

Yesterday’s mail brought another smile to my face when I realized the January Gourmet focused on food of the American South. Yeah, South. There’s a beautiful essay by the late great Edna Lewis, discovered after her death. There’s a story on Ayden, North Carolina’s Skylight Inn. John T. Edge writes about Linton Hopkins and his struggle to have Atlanta embrace his Restaurant Eugene. And Scott Peacock puts together a great dinner menu of Southern food. These are real people and real places, some friends or acquaintances, and the magazine truly warmed my heart, making me wanting more. That’s exactly what a food magazine should do. So, to all those bashers of Ruth Reichl, watch out — I’ve got her back!


Vittles from the SFA Symposium

November 2, 2007

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After our search for the elusive hot tamale, we arrived in Oxford, Mississippi, home of Ole Miss and the Trent Lott Leadership Institute (yes, I walked by it every day, which only made a bad hangover worse). I started with a small lecture by Shirley Corriher, who spoke on the “Science Behind Crispy and Flaky.” Ms. Corriher gave a demonstration on making flaky biscuits, which were tasty but much more cake-like than flaky, but it was all fun nonetheless. I had the opportunity to spend some time with Ms. Corriher, who is as funny in person as she is on Alton Brown’s Good Eats. Heck, she and her husband Arch, a WWII veteran, would make a great vaudeville comedy act.

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Dinner was a fusion of Mexican and Southern foods: refried blackeyed peas, fried chicken tacos, and my favorite new drink: horchata laced with Jack Daniels. Oh my god, why hadn’t I ever thought of this combination before? It’s a Mexican milk punch! Of course, drinking 6 of these is hazardous to one’s health. Even more hazardous are the late night festivities that follow, typically in John Currence’s City Grocery.

Lots more after the break. Read the rest of this entry »


The State of Southern Food: The 10th Annual Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium

November 1, 2007

sfa-ole-miss.jpgWhenever I’m getting ready to attend a Southern Foodways Alliance event, I try to explain that I’m going to a “food culture” event. The actual existence of much culture is questionable, but the conviviality and downright festiveness of an SFA gig makes it something that you need to add to your “must do before I die” list.

In many ways, the attendees of an SFA Symposium are not much different than the clientele of a barbecue restaurant, where you’ll find bankers, farmers, sanitation workers and lawyers sitting at a lunch counter. Black, white. Catholic, Baptist. Young and old alike. The SFA is not a trade organization, representing a single type of professional. The SFA’s mission is “to document and celebrate the diverse food cultures of the American South.” Through its oral history programs, films, and events such as the Symposium, the SFA brings a motley crew of foodies together to share in Southern cuisine and drink. Chefs, food writers, historians, anthropologists, poets, ham makers, farmers, and even lawyers and insurance agents are card carrying members of the SFA.

Discussion flows freely, as does the Jack Daniels. The top chefs of the Southern food world procure the finest artisanal ingredients and prepare scrumptious feasts that sometimes reflect a “nouveau” style of Southern food, whereas other dishes embrace the past. Speakers opine on the state of cornbread, fried chicken or collards. Other times, the focus is more serious, on how race and food intertwine or the decline of the domestic shrimp market. Regardless, the SFA is an organization that is one of inclusion.

This year, the SFA Symposium was entitled, “The State of Southern Food,” and folks, the state is quite fine, thank you very much. I’ll write elsewhere about the food that was served; this is about the people who attend and the emotions involved.

The executive director of the SFA is John T. Edge, who is one of the brightest and best food writers alive, but he is also one of the most genuinely nice individuals. Teamed with Assistant Executive Director Mary Beth Lasseter, the SFA has a pair who has served the organization well.

One other person who deserves a ton of credit is John Currence, owner and chef of Oxford’s City Grocery. Much has been written about this man, who has done as much for the SFA than just about anyone who doesn’t receive a paycheck from them. He was the driving force in rebuilding Willie Mae’s Scotch House in New Orleans. He coordinates the cooking for just about every SFA Symposium, allowing outside chefs to use City Grocery’s kitchen at any time. He also lets a bunch of louts like us in his bar each year. Fortunately, we haven’t gotten into any hardcore bar fights over the proper way to cook fried chicken, but we are a fussy group. Simply put, John Currence busts his ass, year in, and year out. Why? Because he, like most of the members of the SFA, believes in this organization and its mission. Currence is a “doer” and not a “talker.” He gets things done. I had the fortune of having several long discussions with John, and he is one of the truly good guys – and that was before I learned he was a huge Carolina fan.

But if there is any take-home message about the SFA, it’s that everyone you meet is one of the good guys. Egos are almost non-existent. I met some very big names in the food world, and with the exception of one or two (and no, I’m not going to name them), SFA folks are amazingly down-to-earth and want to share in all that is Southern cuisine. Thus, I was lucky to have lunch with the premiere ham maker in the nation, Allan Benton, who has struggled for years before he was “discovered” by top chefs, I also hung out with those top chefs, such as Ben & Karen Barker of Magnolia Grill and John Fleer, formerly of Blackberry Farm (and John’s prowess at chugging Southern Comfort should now be a thing of legend). I tipped a few at City Grocery with several members of Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality team, including Kenny Callaghan, chef of Blue Smoke. I now know more about cocktails in general and the Sazerac in particular because I shared a cab with cocktail guru David Wondrich. I learned the story of Anson Mills Grits from its co-owner, Catherine Horton. I know that Sean Brock of Charleston’s McGrady’s is a big fan of Southern Culture on the Skids. I debated the merits of brining chicken with Shirley Corriher. I witnessed a dirty little skit/joke by the ultra-cool actress Joey Lauren Adams. Hell, I even ate dinner with whom many consider the country’s premier young poet, Kevin Young (and I was joking when I called him an asshole).

After you cut through the pork and the greens and the liquor and, of course, the hangovers, you leave with a whole body sense of warmth that lasts for months or, when you really connect with these great people – a lifetime. I may have been born in New York and lived in Pennsylvania until I was 17, but when I’m at the SFA Symposium, I’m as much of a Southerner as my Mississippi-born dinner companion. And for that, I raise my glass of Jack Daniels in a toast to the SFA.

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Profile of a Ham Maker and a Gentleman: Allan Benton


Hot Tamales — On the Road to the SFA Symposium

October 28, 2007

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When I booked my flight to Memphis for the Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium, I made sure I was on the earliest departure available as I wanted to explore the Mississippi Delta region. I was on a quest for the legendary hot tamale. I’ve heard about the great tradition of hot tamales in this area, and although I’m still wondering how a Mexican food has become a mainstay in the region (and particularly part of the African American foodways tradition), this was a time to conduct a survey of a lot of interesting joints. Unfortunately, due to a delayed flight, we began our journey later than expected, and once we hit the road, bad luck became our passenger.

The first place we visited, Sears Grocery in Tunica, MS, was not yet serving food for the day, primarily because someone had just placed a large to-go order for 30 people. So we reluctantly got back into the car and headed south and west to West Helena, Arkansas. I wanted to visit this area for a few reasons: first, I’ve never actually driven across the Mississippi River. Second, I wanted to see Helena and West Helena, two towns that have a legendary history but have fallen on hard times. And, of course, I wanted to visit Pasquale’s Tamales. Well, unbeknownst to us, Pasquale’s no longer has a store front — only a cart on the weekends. Thus, we were 0 for 2 in our hot tamale quest. Helena is a sad shell of a town that was obviously a thriving gem at some point in its history. With a downtown strip that runs parallel with the Mississippi, Helena was once home of the King Biscuit Flour Company, and the King Biscuit Flour Time is still broadcast from KFFA in downtown Helena. Today, I can see why folks would be singing the blues in Helena, as it truly saddened me to see how the town had fallen on such hard times. However, I did see something in Helena that was new to me: a combination deli and auto shop. Yes, while you’re getting your oil changed at the Haynes Car Care, you can feast on hog maws and beef tips next door at the Haynes Deli.

Read the rest of this entry »


The Oxford Shuffle: The 10th Annual Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium

October 23, 2007

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I am headed down to Oxford, Mississippi early Thursday morning to attend the 10th annual Symposium of the Southern Foodways AllianceThe State of Southern Food.  Needless to say, I’ll provide plenty of reports on the Symposium when I’m not dining on fried catfish, hot tamales, koolickles, Memphis barbecue, pig ears or sipping bourbon.  I’ll be rubbing elbows with the likes of Alice Waters, John T. Edge, Shirley Corriher and a slew of other food dignitaries, some of whom are actually my friends (yes, I’m an unapologetic name dropper).  Most of all, I’ll be sharing stories and enjoying convivial feasts with a lot of people who are passionate about food — Southern food in particular. So you’ll get stories about my side trip to the Mississippi Delta in search of hot tamales. I’ll also get to tell you about finally sampling some real Memphis barbecue. And, of course, there will be lots of stories about Southern food.


Chocolate Gravy — Yes, Chocolate Gravy!

October 21, 2007

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You may have thought you knew Southern food, but unless you’ve had chocolate gravy, you really are just a dilletante — which is what I was until I lost my chocolate gravy virginity this morning.  For some reason, the gospel of the almight chocolate sauce has not been preached from the Appalachian mountaintops.  I’m fairly well-read on Southern food, but until earlier this week, when I was reading the New Encylcopedia of Southern Culture’s volume on Foodways, I read a description of a type of “gravy” common in the Appalachian regions of the South.  This flour-thickened sauce is typically served with biscuits for breakfast. According to the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, there are several legends regarding the origin chocolate gravy:”Spanish Louisiana had a trading network in to the Tennessee valley. This trade may have introduced Mexican-style breakfast chocolate to the Appalachians, where it is called ‘chocolate gravy.’ (Another possibility is that the very old population of mixed-race Appalachian Melungeons has preserved the dish from the sixteenth- and seventeenth-century Spanish colonies on the East Coast.)”

Of course, I had to thoroughly research this sauce. Is it a mole? Is it sweet or savory? Is it just for breakfast? I had lots of questions, and fortunately, chocolate gravy isn’t as uncommon as I would have thought. Search the internet, and you’ll finds hundreds, or even thousands of entries on chocolate gravy. I was getting depressed, as I really didn’t know how I could manage to live 44 years without ever having tried this Southern specialty.

After looking at a bunch of recipes, I decided I needed to choose one that looked right to me. And then I realized, this is just a bechamel with cocoa powder and sugar added. Once I realized that, it was a piece of cake to make the stuff. Melt some butter, add flour, cocoa powder and sugar. Slowly add some milk — just like you might make a meat-based gravy. Finish with vanilla. Wow, it was good and will be a staple at our breakfast table for years to come.

Recipe after the break.

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Collards: Coming Soon to a Pot Near You

October 19, 2007

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We’re finally getting some rain, and hopefully, a cool spell will be behind it bringing a night or two when the temperature drops below freezing. That’s when the collards will truly be ready to eat. There’s something about a light frost that gives collard greens a slightly sweeter flavor, and they’re a bit more tender, too. Farmers claim that the frost “fixes” the plant’s sugars in the leaves, rather than the roots.

A member of the cabbage family, collards have a distinct place on the Southern table. Some claim that collards were just about the only vegetable that survived in Southern fields after Sherman’s siege at the end of the Civil War, but it is certain that this nutritious vegetable was a mainstay in the post-War diet. A vegetable that has grown on the European continent for millennia, African slaves are attributed with cooking collards the modern way: slowly boiled/braised with some flavoring meat until a rich broth, known as potlikker, forms at the bottom. (By the way, “potlikker” is one of the best words every coined. Go ahead and say it to someone — you’re sure to get some sort of response out of them.)

The typical way to eat collards is with a splash of vinegar, accompanied by cornbread. As is often the case with Southern foods, there is even a debate over the best way to eat the cornbread: one school dips the cornbread into the potlikker, whereas others will crumble it into their greens. Either way is mighty tasty to me. Often served with vinegar, collards are one of my all time favorite vegetables.

You really don’t need a recipe to cook collards. You sweat a diced onion, some pork product (hocks, bacon, ham, fatback), add spice to your liking, and some water and salt (but not if you’re using salted meat). Cover and cook slowly for a couple of hours until the greens are completely tender. Sure, this is going to stink a bit, but remember that it’s a member of the cabbage family, all of which are somewhat odoriferous! Serve with cornbread (and I’ll be writing about that before long), but biscuits would do in a pinch.

Heck, the Southern Foodways Alliance, my favorite food organization, will have two lectures about greens and cornbread at next week’s Symposium on the State of Southern Foods. That’s how important this is! I’ll be there and will be sure to report back.
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Barbecue and collards from Bum’s in Ayden, NC


A Fair to Remember: Scenes From the NC State Fair

October 15, 2007

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Some people reluctantly go to the State Fair, and I have been in that category for years.  This year, however, I gladly succumbed to the Fair in all its decadent glory.  My wife and I arrived at the gates at 9:00 AM with our 4 kids, one of their friends, and another adult.  With 180 ride tickets and 200 bucks, we were ready for a big day of eating, riding, and quick trips to the bathroom. 

We sampled lots of food, some of the traditional sort and some of the fried confections.  All was pretty good, some was great, and none would I want to eat again before next  year!  These photos are just a small representation of the Fair.  I didn’t include shots of animals or rides or the carnies (and one observation: I noticed that all the carnies who guess your age/weight/birth month have the exact same voice, regardless of gender — it seems that cheap vodka and cigarettes will affect everyone’s voice the same way it did with Tom Waits).

Click below for lots of Fair pictures.

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Biscuits on a Saturday Morning

October 12, 2007

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When you’re trying to figure out what to do for breakfast this weekend, please consider whipping up some simple, homemade biscuits. I’ve been making biscuits for over 20 years, and they’re a regular staple in our household. Many people are afraid of turning their flour and dairy products into paperweights or hockey pucks, but that really shouldn’t ever be an issue. I’m here to help, and you’ll know who to thank when you’ve pleased your family.

First, the flour. You can use all purpose flour, but I highly recommend you make it easier on yourself and pick up some self-rising flour. This not only provides most of the leavening power you need, but the wheat in this flour is a bit softer (i.e., less gluten) than AP flour. Thus, you’re more likely to turn out a light and flaky biscuit.

The second thing you need is buttermilk. If you can get the stuff in the glass jars from Maple View Farm dairy, even better, as it has a higher fat content, and when it comes to biscuits, fat is your friend. Otherwise, regular buttermilk will suffice.

Third, you need butter — unsalted butter, that is. Salted butter is actually fine, but you can’t control the flavor as much. I also think the unsalted butter creates a fluffier biscuit — perhaps due to the higher moisture content in butter with salt. I might be imagining it, though. You also want the butter to be cold. Some people like to use shortening in their biscuits, but I like keeping it all dairy. If you have some good lard, that will work, too. Over the years, I’ve used butter exclusively as I always have it, it’s always cold, and it’s easy to measure.

Whole milk is good, half-and-half is better, and heavy cream is the best. As I said, fat is your friend. Biscuits are a guilty pleasure, so don’t make a compromise here.

Finally, you’ll need some baking soda and some salt (unless you’re using salted butter). That’s all you need when it comes to foodstuffs.

The only other items you need are a pastry cutter/blender, a rolling pin, and a biscuit cutter — oh, and a hot oven.

The important thing to remember is to be gentle with the dough. That’s why I use a pastry cutter rather than a food processor to cut in the butter. I’ve found my biscuits are always tougher when made with the food processor. Once you’ve cut in the butter, you’ll want to add your liquids all at once and gently stir to combine. You’ll toss the dough onto a counter, knead it only 2-3 times, and then roll out for cutting. If you work the dough much more than that, the gluten will take over, resulting in that NHL-ready puck. Remember not to twist your cutter when cutting out the biscuits, as that causes the edges to pinch a bit, which can impede the proper rise.

These biscuits won’t have an ultra-soft cake-like crumb that you’ll find at Big Ed’s, but they’ll be tender and flaky and filled with flavor.

One of the finest ways in the world to eat biscuits is with nothing but butter, but when we want to be a bit more decadent, we make the “cheese.” The “cheese” is sharp cheddar cheese that has been melted in the oven without a top. We just cut up cubes of cheese, put it in a small casserole, and throw it in the oven while it’s heating up. A nice little crust will form on the top. After awhile, some of the fat will start to separate from the cheese solids, but don’t worry about that. We put some cheese on a hot biscuit, add some fig preserves, and enjoy like a fat and happy puppy. As my father-in-law says, that’s a “mammy-smacking meal” — makes you want to smack your mammy.

Click below for the recipe.

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The State Fair is Here; Zantac Sales Skyrocket

October 11, 2007

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The 2007 North Carolina State Fair begins tomorrow, and am I ever ready. In previous years, I’ve always done things conservatively at the Fair: I only sample a couple of food items, I watch my kids on the rides, I make everyone see the animals, and I never play the carnie games. Heh, heh, a new Fair-goer is in town, and I’m ready to spend some major cash money. I’ve already purchased ten vouchers for 18-ticket ride books. That’s enough to go 30 times on one of those upside-down-vomit-inducing-spin-til-your-head-bursts rides that attract all the high schoolers. OK, maybe I’ll leave that to the kids, but dammit, I am going to eat. We’ll be ready, arriving before the 9:00 opening, looking for that first country ham biscuit. There will be food on a stick, just like Andrea Weigl of the N&O reported yesterday (boy, I wish we had the Scotch Egg on a Stick here — sounds like a perfect breakfast). But I’m going to check out some of the food competitions to see what kinds of cakes and preserves and quick breads are out there. And if we’re really lucky, they’ll be carving something grandiose out of butter, which we’ll look at right after milking a cow.

For some good pictures of Fairs gone by, check out my friend Holly Moore’s website, hollyeats.com. The photo above is his.


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